The Black Pearl SAS and build | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Well now that Im Elite i figured Id start a thread to document my SAS build...

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Just some ideas thrown out all willy nilly....

Plate or tube to the insides on top of frame rails.
Support tubes from the outside plates to the corners of the main bumper tube.
Tabs for lights to the center.
A hoop for the winch or strap under the stinger tube. Can add a snatch block to this hoop, for lighter pulls and rope is higher off the ground. ie.... pulling a person up a cliff edge, rolling over fallen trees vs dragging, etc... Plus it makes for a convenient winch hook hanger on the trails, out of water/mud.

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That is pretty much the plan. I cut and added what was the bottom tube (original bumper) from just above the bolts on the outside, they wrap around just like the main tube. But I cut one about .250 to short (don't know what happened there) but tacked up the drivers side.

I think I am going plate the top of the frame and drill/tap the frame for a bolt, there is a .500 thickness for tapping.

Then from the frame plate, weld vertical plate between the 3/8 and the (top) frame plate that will run parallel with the main tube. That should be a good spot for some 3 inch led long range pods

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Work for GM they said.... It would be fun they said...

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A little update, haven't been working too much in the shop these past two weeks as rifle season is opening up this coming Saturday here and my dad is coming out for a week to visit.

But i have been looking for some good info online for the new 5-wire warn winch controls so i can add an in-cab controller. All the info online i have found is mostly for the 3-wire setups but there isnt much info on the newer stuff; And what is there isn't really clear how to wiring things up.

For Reference, at the controller plug the pin-out goes as follows.

Black Wire: Ground input to the controller
Brown wire: Ground to the solenoids (these close the ground circuit within the controller from the black wire)
Red Wire: 12 volt constant power (to the controller connector and to the solenoids)
White wire: Switched 12 volt for winch-in operation.
Green wire: Switched 12 volt for winch-out operation.

The plan is the connect black to brown at all times, and use a section of 16/3 wire ran from the control box into the cab for the constant 12v and the other two for winch in/out operation.

That is what most seem to do and it basically turned the 5-wire into a 3 wire setup. The factory controller will still work with this setup should the need arise.
 






I will add, On my specific control box i haven't seen the same configuration of solenoids WITH the same wiring configuration. I found a YouTube video that was close but this person had the red wire as a ground and that is not the case with my winch. I believe that was a 9.5i winch. Mine for reference is a Gen1 VR10000 with 94' of steel wire.

Attached is the configuration of the solenoids on my winch.

The Black wire is grounded at the winch's ground cable. Now where i have my control box, the factory ring terminal wouldnt reach the OE location, so i just ran a self-tapping screw into the core support just under where the box is mounted.

All Brown wires will be linked together with the Black wire, permanently.

A ring terminal will be add to each circuit of the 16/3 cable; And linked to their respective circuits : Red, White and Green on the control box. The 16/3 cable will then be routed into the cab, and wired to male and female WeatherPak connectors into the Winch On/Off switch, and the two Winch operation switches, Winch-In and Winch-out which are momentary single pole swithes.

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Got part of the in-cab winch control wired up last night it is ready to be ran into the cab, I verified operation.

Changed things up a bit and wire it up without having to cut into the original winch control harness with the use of a few ring terminals. You can see from the diagram above that the solenoid grounds (brown) are linked, so i added a single ring terminal from them, and added a ring terminal attached to the "motor ground black wire".

Taking the 16/3 cable (extension cord) and added a ring terminal to each circuit. Then attaching one ring to each circuit on the solenoid pack; Red wire, Green wire, and white (blue in the diagram) wire and tested the system and everything works correctly.

The red wire (Battery voltage) will serve as the 12v input to the switches in the cab of the truck.
 






Well now the the hunting season is over (I got a Doe and a Buck BTW) and my father is back in CA, Its back on the project.

A week or so ago i picked up a ring and pinion set from FB. Richmond Gears 4.86 for the 9 inch ($100), and it will get a Spartan or Detroit locker.

I am on the lookout for a matching R/P for the D44 and I am going to Lincoln Lock it while i am in there. I am going to do it all on the bench, with a set of spare shafts i have. I have 3 D44 carriers total. (2) Series 3 carriers and (1) Series 4 carrier so i have options for standard or thick gears

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I got bored waiting for some side work to show up to pickup his car, so I threw the 35s back on the rig. I figure it's a good pictures... And this thread needs more pictures.

Don't mind the surface rust. The bumpers and sliders are getting bedlined by a co worker for $20 (or a bottle of fireball) once I am finally done with them, eventually.

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Looking good man!

So you got them sliders glued together. Nice. What is he priming them with, before he shoots the bed liner on them?

I think that body lift has to come off. At least swap it for a 1" version. That thing is tall for 35's!
 






I know :frown: I am looking at options to lower It. The full size bronco could are 6" and I think they are something like 450 ppi spring rate. From my research 240-325 is what everyone seems to like.

I need to take some measurments of the rear shackles and compare them to the spring sliders, from what I've seen they are a big plus off road and handle very well on road.

I have a lot of options for the front ride height but somewhat limited for the rear.
 






I'm not convinced on those slide shackles for off road use yet. Can't wait to see how they work for you, if you go that route.

You have adjustable front buckets right? Can you run 5" or 5.5"? If so, check out PAC Racing for coils.

If you have a band saw (or something similar) you can cut your 3" pucks down to a 1", or can do a sloped lift by gradually cutting them down from front to back. ie.. Can lower the front easier than the rear.
 






I'm not convinced on those slide shackles for off road use yet. Can't wait to see how they work for you, if you go that route.

You have adjustable front buckets right? Can you run 5" or 5.5"? If so, check out PAC Racing for coils.

If you have a band saw (or something similar) you can cut your 3" pucks down to a 1", or can do a sloped lift by gradually cutting them down from front to back. ie.. Can lower the front easier than the rear.

I do have a band saw. I don't know about progressive cutting the pucks. I am going to keep the 3" BL for future plans.

The spring sliders have had good reviews from what i have seen.
 












The look on gmans face
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Well I was looking at Barnes4WD at their 7/8 Heim Joint kit, I added 2 set of them and calculated shipping and the black Friday discount code...

7/8 Chromoly Heim Joint Trackbar Kit 3/4-5/8 High Misalignment Spacers For 1 Inch ID Tube

and accidentally ordered them. So I guess i have two sets coming. And i will have an extra Heim Joint and hardware.

One is for the axle side of the track-bar (using the factory 78 F150 bushing for the frame side), and the other two will be for the Drag-link from the pitman arm.
 






Anyone wanna guess what I am up to on the rig tonight??

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I give up, napping under the rig on the creeper?

Almost. Knocking in the pinch-weld to finish up the sliders. Unfortunately I am going to have to drop the fuel tank to drill and install the rear leg of the drivers side slider, oh well, it's pretty easy to do with the 3" BL. I can actually swap the fuel pump without dropping the tank, ask me how I know lol
 









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Ok I will. There are three "legs" from the sliders to the frame (I assume pugly is the same, since it is your design). Forward most the will go about where the fuel filter is, the middle is close to the body/frame mount and the rear is just above the front leaf spring hanger (which is about mid fuel tank).

I will post pictures when I make it back out to the shop today.
 






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