the dilemma...

[tjsxplodr]

im sure those of u long time explorer owners can relate to this: my husband and i were discussing some of the current issues facing our lives, ie: finances. My explorer is currently my only vehicle. It has over 205k miles on it. Our discussion turned into one of whether or not to invest anymore cash into a 20 yr old vehicle. I do not see our financial situation improving for awhile therefore a newer vehicle is not in the picture. I love my ride. I really want to fix it up the right way, but know that might not be the best thing to do. What are your experiences with this kind of situation???

 

[ragajungle]

I can definately emphasize. I think a lot of people are in that same situation - probably more than not (myself included) The conundrum is do you take a gamble on something else and possibly start over? Or do you stick with what you know? My 94 had 287K on it when I sold it and the lady still has it now-still running like a swiss watch. In retrospect I really regret letting it go.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah see, thats just it. I know what i need to do to mine, eventually everything major will need taken care of. The motor is leaking oil, i think my tranny is leaking as well. The clutch as far as i know is original. My husband said, cars dont last forever. Rust is a minor issue, not something to worry over. He said unless i wanted to spend thousands of dollars to repair it right, then i should just keep the things that r going.....going if ya know what i mean. He said by the time i got it fixed, i could have bought something 'better'...im just not sure now what i should do.

 

[ragajungle]

well you said clutch...which means you have the right tranny if it where an auto I would worry. Why not just keep maintaining it - change fluids and save up? Drive that puppy till it dies. You might just be surprise. Next year this time you'll be posting back "91 Ex - won't die"


My sister has over a quarter million miles on hers - she set a goal of a half million.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Lol ya i dont like autos. I keep maintenance pretty well. Full synthetic oil, new tuneup. Ive replaced alot of things on it. Going to do ball joints this week hopefully, if the weather cooperates. I love my ride. Tho the rockers r rusted its still a good rig. If i save up, it would be to replace the motor or tranny or clutch. Unless the rust gets so bad that it would b better off in the junkyard. Ya my folks have a toyota 4runner that had 300k on it b4 it blew a head gasket. Ive never owned an suv b4 so this is new for me.

 

[ragajungle]

the ball joints on these a PITA. I did them on my bronco II which has the same ttb suspension as your Explorer (if it's a 4x4) and my advise for you is to get new ujoints for the half shafts when you do it. and PB Blaster is your friend...

yeah I understand the rust thing in Wisconsin they put so much salt on the road that 2-3 year old cars start to rot out...

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah i dunno where my ride was before i got it. The guy i bought it from got it at an auction and didnt know the history of it. There were foot long rust holes on the rocker panels that i just had welded.

How do i tell what size u joints i need? Yes mine is a 4x4.

 

[ragajungle]

honestly when I did mine I went to Advance Auto and ordered them (2 on pass side axle shaft and 1 on the driver side) And I brought the shafts to the shop down the street from my house and for 40 bucks he pressed em in.. They were to rusted for me to get out without a sizable press.

FYI DONT go cheap on ujoints and wheel bearings. I used the cheap-o wheel bearings from Autozone and they lasted 3 months. my truck is still stranded in Chicago because of this... Pay the extra $ to get the good parts.

 

[tjsxplodr]

I dont even know if the wheel bearings need replaced...maybe just greased....i dont have an advance auto here.

On every auto parts store ive been to here in boise, the u joints have different sizes....i dont know what size mine are. The guy i am having do my ball joints is gonna have the truck apart, but i dunno if he wants to do the u joints too.

 

[YBCold]

im kinda thinkin the same thing. my ploder is up there in miles and i figured after i put myhead back in next week i will drive the engine and tranny untill they die and then do an engine swap and trans swap eventually. better than nickel and diming my truck.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah its tough to decide on something like this cuz other ppl say just drive it til it dies then get something else.....

 

[YBCold]

well i like mine so i would rather just get a newer engine with low miles than getting some kinda crappy prius or bar of soap looking car. these things are solid. my aunts 89 towncar still running. i want that one too. i keep fighin with her not to sell it or trade in for cash for clunkers. but i think im done trying to fix it one problem at a time

 

[tjsxplodr]

Do u know how i can tell the size of the u joints without having to pull them out?

 

[ragajungle]

on the dana 35 (the axle in your truck) when you do ball joints the axle shafts have to come out anyways when you do ball joints. The best way to do it is when he has it apart bring the driverside shaft to the parts house with you to size it up if you want to be extra sure.

it will be listed as "Wheel joint"

here is the autozone listing:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Gold-U-Joint/1991-Ford-Explorer-4WD/_/N-ittjlZ6o242?counter=3&itemIdentifier=64126_0_1439_5247,101209

 

[tjsxplodr]

ah ok, yeah ill just have him do that and do the u joints as well.

I have a spare motor with supposedly 86k miles on it that i was going to rebuild, but i might sell it for parts to save for a new motor.

Im just amazed how much i can work on these vs working on a newer vehicle...

 

[tjsxplodr]

I just wish i knew why my husband says to not even worry about the rusted rocker panels....arent they a big stabilization point for the body frame??

 

[tjsxplodr]

Well it looks like im going to have to have the shop do my right side ball joints cuz the lower is like bonded to itself. The guy who was going to do them for me could not get the lower ball joint bolt off. More than likely its going to have to b cut off....he also said something about the main bearing was loose....does that mean the inner and outer wheel bearings? How do the wheel bearings become loose?

 

[ragajungle]

"Main bearing" could mean wheel bearings... I would ask him to clarify

Wheel bearings go for many reasons, water getting on them, age, etc... don't skimp on WB's you could loose a wheel or worse...I just had one break on me last week on the expressway - scary biz

When I did the ball joints on my Ex and my Bronco II (both wisconsin-rustbelt trucks) I had to use a ton of PB Blaster and MAPP Gas to get the bolts loose, and one gigantic breaker bar.

 

[tjsxplodr]

I think he was talking about the wheel bearings....hopefully. god i cant afford for the shop to do this. I hope that its just the ball joints that are bad and not the bearings too. These shops charge arms and legs to do suspension work here in idaho.

 

[ragajungle]

I have gotten pricing from between $100-$150 per side for a set of inner and outter wheel bearings for a shop to do. Why wont the guy that was going to do the BJs just put a set of bearings on for you. It is easy as pie - less than a half hour to do..just need a good ft lb torque wrench some bearing grease TIMKEN Bearings ($40 for the set) and a pick to remove the set key (If you have auto-hubs) and the spindle nut wrench depending on which set up you have auto/manual hubs have different spindle nuts-- theres a write up on here in the gen 1 sections stickies...