The everything Aviator thread.

[jd4242]

Also i read the tb is same as the 2v 4.6 but bigger,anyone confirm this?? Looking for a aftermarket tb..

Edit...they do fit.im running a 75mm one right now 11/19/16

 

[Chlorine]

Also i read the tb is same as the 2v 4.6 but bigger,anyone confirm this?? Looking for a aftermarket tb..

You'd probably have better luck with a Mach 1 or Cobra intake for any noticeable gain. Looking at the intake lid, the stock tb is only marginally smaller than the inlet.

A side by side of the Mach and Aviator intakes make the runners on ours look a mile long, shifting our peak torque about 1k rpm lower, but dropping it about 20 ft/lbs.

Some good info and pics in this thread http://forums.tccoa.com/7-engine-4-6l-5-4l/91650-so-about-aviator-engine.html#post876212

The Aviator is essentially the same longblock as the Marauder and the Mach I. The big difference is the intake manifold.

While the Aviator is rated at 302 hp @ 5,750 rpm and 300 ft./lbs. @ 3,250 rpm,
the Marauder has 302 hp @ 5,750 rpm and 318 ft./lbs. @ 4,300 rpm and the Mach I puts out 305 hp @ 5800 RPM and 320 ft./lbs. @ 4200 RPM.

For comparison, the '02 Cobra is rated at 320 hp @ 6,000 rpm and 317 lb./ft. @ 4,750 rpm.

The primary differences in these engines is intake and exhaust. Note that, while the nte torque figure is lower for the Aviator, it comes on at 3,250 rpm vs. 4,200-4740 for the others.

 

[jd4242]

You'd probably have better luck with a Mach 1 or Cobra intake for any noticeable gain. Looking at the intake lid, the stock tb is only marginally smaller than the inlet.

A side by side of the Mach and Aviator intakes make the runners on ours look a mile long, shifting our peak torque about 1k rpm lower, but dropping it about 20 ft/lbs.

Some good info and pics in this thread http://forums.tccoa.com/7-engine-4-6l-5-4l/91650-so-about-aviator-engine.html#post876212

Yea i was looking at cobra uppers but it doesnt seem like a direct swap.i was only trying to go to like a 75mm tb which will fit ours.but this is down the road anyways,just researching. .

Am looking for a true cold air though to maybe help with mpg,may end up making my own.i need to see what is under the passengers head light/wheelwell

 

[Albino 94LTD]

You guys know they have dual length intake runners, right?

There is a gate in the manifold that shortens the runner at WOT and about 3500rpm (at least thats when it feels like the runner gate switches)

 

[jd4242]

You guys know they have dual length intake runners, right?

There is a gate in the manifold that shortens the runner at WOT and about 3500rpm (at least thats when it feels like the runner gate switches)

Yea,think its a little higher than that if i remember. .

 

[jd4242]

Need help...

The felpro head gaskets say""determine which bolts extend into coolant passages, apply sealant to them""

None i pulled out had sealant on them and the ford manual doesnt mention this at all...do any need sealant? ???

 

[jd4242]

Need help...

The felpro head gaskets say""determine which bolts extend into coolant passages, apply sealant to them""

None i pulled out had sealant on them and the ford manual doesnt mention this at all...do any need sealant? ???

Anyone?? About to put the covers on and button up the motor??

 

[CorbinDallas]

Anyone?? About to put the covers on and button up the motor??

Sorry man, i have the same service manual as you do

Can you tell by looking if there is a channel under there?

 

[jd4242]

Sorry man, i have the same service manual as you do

Can you tell by looking if there is a channel under there?

They dont require any from what i could tell..i have put about 300 miles on the motor after switching cams to correct spots(machine shops fault)

Also about to pull the motor back apart as apparently i clogged the oil rings or they have gone bad..

 

[CorbinDallas]

Haha, ya i'm just reading your post on the other thread. I'm supposed to be finding out how to get my dang hubs out. I have new hubs for the front, and new brakes/pads all around + an oil change. I really wanted to do the timing work while i changed my oil, but I don't have time today. I have 3 other oil changes to do after I get these hubs out, and then trying to get the rearend on my '96 5.0 back together so I can have it ready for the first snowfall (any time in Sept in Calgary).

 

[CorbinDallas]

Just did my front hubs. The ABS light was coming on, and I had the characteristic grinding when I loaded the driver's side bearing (turning to the right). This video was really helpful, but please don't try to knock out the hub with a hammer; use a puller! Getting the bolts out of the hub were a real PITA too. I needed a really long 15mm socket. I had to use extensions but the bulge in the extension hits the cv boot so I couldn't come in straight on the hub bolts.. You can see in the video at 07:52 that his socket takes him to the cv boot clamp, and his ratchet is really low profile. I used the raybestos 715050 hub and bearing assembly, but the caliper bolts were too small.

Ford Explorer 4X4 Front Hub & Bearing Repair


Rabyestos Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
http://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1440615&parttype=1636

I also did the rotors and pads all around with POWER STOP KOE2839 which is a full kit. Here is a picture of the front driver's side. While i was under there, i saw my sway bar bushings were dead, my rear driver's strut was leaking, the front passenger side axle was leaking, and the brake lines all need to be flushed. The parking brake shoes and hardware all need to be replaced too
.

 

[dgr6853]

Ok, For starters I want to say hello. About two months ago the wife and I purchased a 2003 Aviator. I have to say I Love the Car. However, ever since 2008ish I've known that I wanted one. I remember the wife and I were looking for used SportTracs and I saw an aviator at a dealership. I instantly fell in love with it the Aviator when we test drove that one in 2008. However, they were simply too far out of our budget. Recently, these things have come down in price and got mine for about 3000. I don't think there is a single option it doesn't have. I don't know if it came with navigation from the factory but it has an aftermarket navigation system and is fully integrated into the steering wheel controls and to the rear entertainment system--assuming that the overhead DVD player went bad but the screen still works and it had an Auxiliary input. I didn't realize how much of an upgrade the chrome rims were but it has the chrome rims that were stock with a standard rim for a full size spare. The leather was in good condition even if was dirty--easy to fix, lol. When we first saw the one we eventually bought I noticed that some of the tires were balled on the outside, the evaporation monitor had not run---thought that was kinda weird, the AC wasn't getting cold, the Auto up on the driver window wasn't working and, the ABS light was coming on and the cruise control wasn't working and many other small things. However, I knew it was running ok and there were no weird smells coming from it so I took a chance. The car had 140,000 miles.

The ABS was the main pressure transducer and was an inexpensive fix that also fixed the cruise control. I was able to simply charge the AC system and that was good. I ordered an ELM327 with forscan software I was able to program a second key and ordered a new keyless entry key fob. The auto up on the window was able re-learn and that was good.

I spent about a week detailing the vehicle with wash, clay bar, polish, and then wax, and then a sealant. She looks pretty good when clean. currently raining and the car is dirty so the pics I upload won't look great.

The only concerns I have are all the bad news I've read about these transmissions cause it currently has a hard shift into 3rd but no flares. I was wondering if anyone here has run a 180 thermostat on their aviator to help with heat issues and the heads.

Currently needs new rotors and pads all around. I ordered a set of stop tech slotted cryo treated rotors for the front. next I suppose I will order a set for the rears and will wait till I have all of it to put them on. I went with I think are aggressive rotors because I love braking aggressively.

Ive been cleaning the Engine bay and I one day I think I sprayed water into the wrong place (something I've done before and taken out coils). So, I ran a scan and cylinder 8 was misfiring. I was able to remove the plug and then reinsert it and it was good--slight stumble. I noticed that the plugs needed to be done so I did them---the plugs must have been original or something because there was a big jump in low end torque and like a 4 MPG increase. I think I must have damaged one of the coils or multiple of them because after all this the engine has a slight stumble at idle. Just wondering if anyone has used MSD street fire coils--I was wondering if they made a difference at all as far as power. In either case they are way less expensive than standard coils.

 

[CorbinDallas]

The only concerns I have are all the bad news I've read about these transmissions cause it currently has a hard shift into 3rd but no flares. I was wondering if anyone here has run a 180 thermostat on their aviator to help with heat issues and the heads.

Currently needs new rotors and pads all around. I ordered a set of stop tech slotted cryo treated rotors for the front. next I suppose I will order a set for the rears and will wait till I have all of it to put them on. I went with I think are aggressive rotors because I love braking aggressively.

Ive been cleaning the Engine bay and I one day I think I sprayed water into the wrong place (something I've done before and taken out coils). So, I ran a scan and cylinder 8 was misfiring. I was able to remove the plug and then reinsert it and it was good--slight stumble. I noticed that the plugs needed to be done so I did them---the plugs must have been original or something because there was a big jump in low end torque and like a 4 MPG increase. I think I must have damaged one of the coils or multiple of them because after all this the engine has a slight stumble at idle. Just wondering if anyone has used MSD street fire coils--I was wondering if they made a difference at all as far as power. In either case they are way less expensive than standard coils.

The seals for the cover plate on the coil over plugs (COPs) gets old and dried out, so if you live in a damp climate, water will get into your plugs and dmg them. I read a recommendation to use a bit of sealer for where the wiring harness comes out on the driver's side. My whole driver's side bank had a lot of condensation in it, and i ended up replacing 2 COPs. Still has a rough idle, and i'm sure maybe those other two aren't 100%. For the COPs, i've read that the standard duty (vs the "high performance") plugs are better as they have longer duty cycle. I save so much on rockauto that i usually get the motorcraft stuff anyways.

Transmissions are definitely an issue. Yours will fail eventually.

Also the heads on the 2003 version had an issue with burning out due to a lack of cooling channels. I can't remember the casting mark that indicates the problem, but you can google it.

 

[dgr6853]

Yeah, I knew about the cooling issue with the heads. I've ordered a low temp thermostat from JET to help somewhat. However, I have found a 2005 in New York that I could order the heads from for 100 per head. The 2005 model didn't have the cooling problem for the drivers head. I've thought about doing the cooling mod for the back of the drivers side head.

Ive thought about trying to slowly service the trans with just drain and fill and filter. but right now it works and I feel like if I start messing around with it then it will start to deteriorate. Essentially, at 140,000 miles I don't know if the previous owner did any service to the trans. I could start to drain and it could come out black or it could come out super clean. What I'm afraid of is that if really bad fluid starts to come out then I know that clutch pack material suspended in the fluid will also be coming out and then it will start to slip because that suspended clutch material was helping even if the old fluid can't cool the trans. I suppose its a catch 22.

 

[AviatorSTL]

Hey y'all

I'm impressed with the serious Aviator knowledge and enthusiasm being thrown around on this thread!

I have question on my 2005 - recently I went to adjust the power mirrors using the toggle switch on the drivers door only to realize that it no longer worked. I know the mirrors themselves operate because when I press the seating presets that I had from position 1 to 2, the mirrors shift without issue. So Thinking it may be the fuse, I located fuse 20 from the manual and examined and it appeared fine. So, I think it may just be the toggle switch itself that has failed. I opened up the panel on the door - was going to unplug/replug the switch but I couldnt disconnect - there was no obvious clips to squeeze to slide it off and didn't want to be too forceful. Can anyone tell me how to properly disconnect the toggle power mirror switch? Also are there other fuses I should agave checked that are associated with the power mirror switch? As with most Aviator parts this switch is pretty pricy at 70/80$ Oem so want to be sure I really need one before buying.

Anyways thanks for helping out. All suggestions appreciated.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Search for Bandit Customs here on the forum. Message Kris and Russell, they had and may still have a parts aviator

 

[Raviator]

Bought an 05 aviator florida truck, would that be romeo or windsor,

also I bought it with a dead motor, guy said it slipped the timing chain but when I removed the valve covers chains were intact and no obvious signs of issues.

Also while I was working I noticed no tool marks on any fastners, might it be this guy was guessing?

All it does now is click as if the battery was dead, on the chager desulfator. any input?

Thanks

 

[jd4242]

Bought an 05 aviator florida truck, would that be romeo or windsor,

also I bought it with a dead motor, guy said it slipped the timing chain but when I removed the valve covers chains were intact and no obvious signs of issues.

Also while I was working I noticed no tool marks on any fastners, might it be this guy was guessing?

All it does now is click as if the battery was dead, on the chager desulfator. any input?

Thanks

Have you charged the battery or tried to jump start it?

The guides can break which is very common and the chain jump a tooth or two..if this happens the valves will hit the pistons and bend a valve or break the pistons causing the motor to lock up..

I hope it doesnt have timing issues or you just bought a truck with a completely useless motor. .

Those heas are DC cast so worth big money if they didnt get damaged..keep that in mind if you end up swapping motors or rebuilding

 

[Rasec143]

hopefully there's someone out there who can offer some advice.
i picked up a fully loaded 04 aviator 2 months ago for ridiculously cheap.


it was burning oil and misfiring when i got it and after inspection found it needed new tube seals.
oil was leaking into the spark plug tubes.
I replaced valve cover gasket and tube seals.
cleaned out sp tubes. replaced plugs( motorcraft) and cleaned off coil packs.
truck ran a lot better after that but still had misfires.
i bought a new set of coil packs. some no name brand. I don't have some crazy brand loyalty. ive owned enough vehicles to know that there are other parts out there that work as good or better so my choices usually come down to price.
i try to stick to a brand ive heard of for warranty but in this case. the price was right.
after replacing the coils the truck ran like new. it was insane.
the power in this thing is pretty impressive when its running right.
BUT once the truck heats up, engine starts misfiring again so i'll be sending these coils back.
since there's almost no info on these trucks online the little i have found is people saying these trucks NEED motorcraft parts.
i find that hard to believe.
this isn't my first ford product.
I also have a 2010 mustang and ive owned 2 explorers, grand marquis and an expedition.

anyone else replace the coil packs on here with parts other than motorcraft with success? what brand?
i don't want to keep ordering/returning parts.

for the price that im finding the motorcraft set of coils online, i might as well just sell the truck and buy something else.

 

[jd4242]

hopefully there's someone out there who can offer some advice.
i picked up a fully loaded 04 aviator 2 months ago for ridiculously cheap.


it was burning oil and misfiring when i got it and after inspection found it needed new tube seals.
oil was leaking into the spark plug tubes.
I replaced valve cover gasket and tube seals.
cleaned out sp tubes. replaced plugs( motorcraft) and cleaned off coil packs.
truck ran a lot better after that but still had misfires.
i bought a new set of coil packs. some no name brand. I don't have some crazy brand loyalty. ive owned enough vehicles to know that there are other parts out there that work as good or better so my choices usually come down to price.
i try to stick to a brand ive heard of for warranty but in this case. the price was right.
after replacing the coils the truck ran like new. it was insane.
the power in this thing is pretty impressive when its running right.
BUT once the truck heats up, engine starts misfiring again so i'll be sending these coils back.
since there's almost no info on these trucks online the little i have found is people saying these trucks NEED motorcraft parts.
i find that hard to believe.
this isn't my first ford product.
I also have a 2010 mustang and ive owned 2 explorers, grand marquis and an expedition.

anyone else replace the coil packs on here with parts other than motorcraft with success? what brand?
i don't want to keep ordering/returning parts.

for the price that im finding the motorcraft set of coils online, i might as well just sell the truck and buy something else.

Could be the valve seats are loose..these are famous for it..once it get hot is when they really move around..why you can pick these up so cheap..if different COP dont fix it id do a compression test..typically its number 7 or 8 that the misfire shows up and typically the seats that come loose