The everything Aviator thread. | Page 18 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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The everything Aviator thread.

Its production date is 06/05. The stamp on the block is 05 inside a circle
Definitely should be a DC cast head then..id pull the valve cover and check things out..one or some of the valves should be slightly stuck open if the seat is bad but id make sure something else was keeping it open,like bad follower or lash adjuster. .then leak down if cant see anything
 



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May i ask where does one start looking for a reputable shop that can handle this?

I got my heads rebuilt at Dover Cylinder Head Services, 1489 Cedar Lane Rd, Greenville, SC 29617, (864) 294-7741. It's a family business that has been around for many years. They have an excellent reputation.

I agree with jd4242 to pull the valve cover and investigate. There may be only 1 intake valve opening in that cylinder resulting from a thrown cam follower.
InVlvSpring2.jpg
 






Definitely should be a DC cast head then..id pull the valve cover and check things out..one or some of the valves should be slightly stuck open if the seat is bad but id make sure something else was keeping it open,like bad follower or lash adjuster. .then leak down if cant see anything


-Any links on what to look for on lash adjusters or followers. Going to take it apart this weekend. Thanks for all the advice so far!
 






Opening up a new Aviator topic here, if I may.
I have a 2004 Aviator that came factory with halogen headlights. I found another Aviator that had factory HIDs and grabbed them. I took off the old headlights and plugged in the newly acquired HID housings and they seem to work. However, I was looking at a fuse diagram and found that the factory HID vehicles have a few wiring differences than my non-HID Aviator. Specifically, there is a module on the passenger fender well that has three "fuses" in it on the HID vehicle, but my Aviator has only one "fuse" and where the other two fuses go there are no metal spades to attach fuses.
Further, on the main power box on the driver's side fender well there are two spaded fuses on the HID Aviator, however my halogen Aviator has missing fuses and only one metal spade in these same spaces.
So, I guess the question is, should I be looking for the wiring to upgrade my Aviator to the HID specific wiring harness?
The lights seem to work, as the ballasts are enclosed within the headlight assembly, but I have not driven the vehicle at night and left them on for any length of time, because I do not want to cause unforeseen electrical problems. Any thoughts?
 






Hello all. I have 2004 Avi. with 165K. Recently replaced the gas filter and tranny fluid/filter. Next on the list is the timing chain tensioners/ guides. Are there differences from the 2v, 3V and 4V that I should be aware of? Do they share the same guides/ tensioners/ sprockets as all other 4.6L engines? or does the Aviator engine have unique parts? Also, which brand of kits are better than others? Ive seen Melling, Cloyes, Ford OEM and a bunch of no name brands from $99 to $499 a kit. Any help would be appreciated.
 






Ok, for those who have read my post about the factory HID headlights above and why there seems to be two different wiring harnesses (one for halogen and the other for HID) I am pretty sure that I have the solution. I found that the HID headlights (which includes the entire headlight assembly) would interchange with the halogen one physically, but there were minor differences. First, the plug for the HID is slightly different, but it can be forced.
I went ahead and purchased not only the 2004 Aviator shop manual, but also bought the 2004 Aviator electrical manual. It was there that I found out the difference and I have a theory on why Lincoln decided to do it that way. First, the differences. The most important difference is that the fuse box, located under the hood, uses 10 amp fuses for the halogen headlights (I believe spaces 33 and 34). These are small micro fuses. The HID headlights use the larger 20 amp fuses, which are in empty spaces on the halogen fuse box. Also, the wiring to the HID relays on the passenger fender well from the fuse box is 16 gauge compared to the 18 gauge for the halogen lights. All wires are the same color, however. Also, from the HID relays to the actual HID plugs, again we find 16 gauge wires, instead of the 18 gauge halogen wires. Again, the wires are the same color, just thicker. So, my theory is that the HID wires must pull a larger amperage and trying to pull that amperage through 18 gauge wire would probably cause the wires to get hot and overheat and possibly start a fire.
What I find strange is that I have also upgraded a 2004 Lincoln LS from halogen to factory HID, but that was strictly plug and play and I drove that car a lot at night and never had any issues. I do not know if the halogen wiring harness was just thicker on that car, allowing for the HIDs to just be plugged in, or if I was just lucky. Too bad the ex got that car in the divorce, or I would check to see the wire diameter in that car.
Finally, I did manage to incorporate the HID wiring harness into my Aviator. The hardest part was working on getting the blades from the HID 16 gauge wires (lt. green with white stripe and a solid white wire) to go into the fuse box. Once I got that completed, put in the 20 amp fuses (pulled the 10 amp fuses from the halogen setup) and put in the battery, I found that the headlights are always on, somehow completely bypassing the light switch inside on the dash. My thoughts are that the blades that are found in the HID fuse position in the halogen fuse box are attached to a bus that is hot all the time. So, Saturday, I will go out to the junked Aviator and look at how the power is given to the HID fuses on that vehicle and see if there is a difference.
Anyway, after working on this vehicle now for a few weeks, I am finding that it is pretty easy to work on. If you have worked on other Fords/Lincoln/Mercurys from the 90s through the mid-2000s, they are pretty straight forward. Invest in the factory mechanics manual and take your time and plenty of pictures of how things are before messing with them.
 






Ok, for those who have read my post about the factory HID headlights above and why there seems to be two different wiring harnesses (one for halogen and the other for HID) I am pretty sure that I have the solution. I found that the HID headlights (which includes the entire headlight assembly) would interchange with the halogen one physically, but there were minor differences. First, the plug for the HID is slightly different, but it can be forced.
I went ahead and purchased not only the 2004 Aviator shop manual, but also bought the 2004 Aviator electrical manual. It was there that I found out the difference and I have a theory on why Lincoln decided to do it that way. First, the differences. The most important difference is that the fuse box, located under the hood, uses 10 amp fuses for the halogen headlights (I believe spaces 33 and 34). These are small micro fuses. The HID headlights use the larger 20 amp fuses, which are in empty spaces on the halogen fuse box. Also, the wiring to the HID relays on the passenger fender well from the fuse box is 16 gauge compared to the 18 gauge for the halogen lights. All wires are the same color, however. Also, from the HID relays to the actual HID plugs, again we find 16 gauge wires, instead of the 18 gauge halogen wires. Again, the wires are the same color, just thicker. So, my theory is that the HID wires must pull a larger amperage and trying to pull that amperage through 18 gauge wire would probably cause the wires to get hot and overheat and possibly start a fire.
What I find strange is that I have also upgraded a 2004 Lincoln LS from halogen to factory HID, but that was strictly plug and play and I drove that car a lot at night and never had any issues. I do not know if the halogen wiring harness was just thicker on that car, allowing for the HIDs to just be plugged in, or if I was just lucky. Too bad the ex got that car in the divorce, or I would check to see the wire diameter in that car.
Finally, I did manage to incorporate the HID wiring harness into my Aviator. The hardest part was working on getting the blades from the HID 16 gauge wires (lt. green with white stripe and a solid white wire) to go into the fuse box. Once I got that completed, put in the 20 amp fuses (pulled the 10 amp fuses from the halogen setup) and put in the battery, I found that the headlights are always on, somehow completely bypassing the light switch inside on the dash. My thoughts are that the blades that are found in the HID fuse position in the halogen fuse box are attached to a bus that is hot all the time. So, Saturday, I will go out to the junked Aviator and look at how the power is given to the HID fuses on that vehicle and see if there is a difference.
Anyway, after working on this vehicle now for a few weeks, I am finding that it is pretty easy to work on. If you have worked on other Fords/Lincoln/Mercurys from the 90s through the mid-2000s, they are pretty straight forward. Invest in the factory mechanics manual and take your time and plenty of pictures of how things are before messing with them.
That's awesome write up about the hid, I wanted to get the hid lights and put them on the fog lights on mine but for sure it doesn't fit.

Right noe I am dealing with some rust on the tail gate, anybody had done it ? I never done body work but I want to learn since the shop wants to charge me 1k for it!! Nfw I will pay them that. Aby tips are welcome.
 






I have HIDs in my fog lights and they fit just fine.
 






Well guys ive been around here off an on for years for various small issues. Now its time for some big stuff!
I had someone pull out of a parking lot and i T boned them at about 30 the insurance just totaled it out and sent the check so time for lots of repairs and maintenance

It runs great but with 180k it needs a few things
Ill be doing the timing chains, head gaskets, oil and water pump, possibly a valve job, transmission servo sleeves(flare), band adjustment, and some various upgrades from Sonnax.
Ill be documenting it for some simple youtube how to videos, so stay tuned.
I picked up a used hood and bumper for 300
I still need a grill, both air bags, driver side fender and 2 hook shocks
Im a mechanic so none of this will cost besides parts, machine work, and beer

Does anyone know where the front impact sensor is? I cant find it in my Service manuals or the CD version? Does anyone know if it is reusable after the air bags have deployed? The manual words it like it is reusable, but no location.
 






Well guys ive been around here off an on for years for various small issues. Now its time for some big stuff!
I had someone pull out of a parking lot and i T boned them at about 30 the insurance just totaled it out and sent the check so time for lots of repairs and maintenance

It runs great but with 180k it needs a few things
Ill be doing the timing chains, head gaskets, oil and water pump, possibly a valve job, transmission servo sleeves(flare), band adjustment, and some various upgrades from Sonnax.
Ill be documenting it for some simple youtube how to videos, so stay tuned.
I picked up a used hood and bumper for 300
I still need a grill, both air bags, driver side fender and 2 hook shocks
Im a mechanic so none of this will cost besides parts, machine work, and beer

Does anyone know where the front impact sensor is? I cant find it in my Service manuals or the CD version? Does anyone know if it is reusable after the air bags have deployed? The manual words it like it is reusable, but no location.

I know where an Aviator part car is and it is complete but I am in Canada for sure it is not good to you.

I just upgrade my wheels this past weekend with some 20 conti, see if I can send a pic!
 






Prerunning, I know this is over a month old, but the front impact sensor is on a metal bracket mounted to the lower radiator support behind the front bumper.



The part number 14B006 is shared with the Explorer, but the side impact sensors are a different part number. I agree the wording seems vague on whether it needs to be replaced, mentioning only looking for deformation of the bracket or wiring pigtail.
 












Sorry guys, I definitely intended to have started on the engine work by now but unfortunately I was rear ended on my motorcycle and am still walking with a cane at 26 years old. I'd guess about 2 more months before I start the engine and trans work. I did get the new bumper and hood installed before the accident but that's about it. Last time I updated I was still looking for new airbags. I've found those and they are waiting to be installed. I drove the truck about 250 miles to my new house in Arizona and she did great. The o ringed trans servo will be my first project because it has the typical flare on 1 shift. The truck has 177k on it but the trans was replaced by ford at 90 so I want to prevent a similar situation. Much love from Arizona.
 






Well, my wife's 04 Aviator just took a major dump and we're going to sell as-is instead of fix it. It needs front end galore: ball joints, hubs, transfer case. Anyone have any idea what I should list it for on Craigslist? We bought it a few years back for 5K. Pick and pull is a whopping $350. It broke near Springfield MO, where it sits a ta friends house but I'm in another state, so that complicates things. But I just have no idea what I should list it for. IDeas?
 






Well, my wife's 04 Aviator just took a major dump and we're going to sell as-is instead of fix it. It needs front end galore: ball joints, hubs, transfer case. Anyone have any idea what I should list it for on Craigslist? We bought it a few years back for 5K. Pick and pull is a whopping $350. It broke near Springfield MO, where it sits a ta friends house but I'm in another state, so that complicates things. But I just have no idea what I should list it for. IDeas?
They sell for around and under $1,000 here..as much as is wrong with yours i wouldnt ask much
 






Hello all,

I am extremely happy that I have found this thread. I am in a bit of a situation… I impulse bought a 2005 Aviator. When I bought the car I was struck by its low mileage and the condition of the vehicle. I assumed (incorrectly) that I was buying a re-badged v8 explorer.

After reading this thread, I am starting to get freaked out. What did I get myself into!? I purchased the vehicle back in September and we have enjoyed it quite a lot. Somehow, it doesn’t have a thing wrong with it, which for these cars sounds rare.. It does have the crack in the rear hatch, but everything else is 100% functional in the vehicle.

I bought it with 88k miles on it in September, the previous owner had the transmission rebuilt in June so that should be good for a while... We have enjoyed the vehicle, I like the power but the fuel economy is less than I expected. Averaging 12-13mpg around town and 16mpg on the highway. This thread has a wealth of information but it has my head spinning. And I am hoping you all can help me out with a few questions.

My first question is simple, I changed the oil in my aviator yesterday and I put the recommended 6qts in it but it appears to be overfilled. How much oil do you put in your vehicles? And does anyone know the torque spec for the oil drain plug? I can’t find that info anywhere.

Secondly, I understand that various things in the interior of these vehicles will need attention over time however that doesn’t bother me very much. I am more concerned about the motor and drivetrain. The trans has been rebuilt so I am going to have to assume that is good for now. But as I understand from this thread it looks like these motors have some issues associated with the heads? And I have also read about the transfer cases going out. Is there any preventative maintenance or modifications that I can make now in hopes of making these two items more reliable? My wife drives my daughter around in the vehicle so I want it to be reliable… Ultimately if this isn’t the right car for us I want to make that determination now so that I can sell it while it has nothing wrong with it and get us into something else…

Any help appreciated.

I will attach some pics of the vehicle. I think someone took good care of it, it even came with the original headphones for the DVD player! Impressive.
 






Hello all,

I am extremely happy that I have found this thread. I am in a bit of a situation… I impulse bought a 2005 Aviator. When I bought the car I was struck by its low mileage and the condition of the vehicle. I assumed (incorrectly) that I was buying a re-badged v8 explorer.

After reading this thread, I am starting to get freaked out. What did I get myself into!? I purchased the vehicle back in September and we have enjoyed it quite a lot. Somehow, it doesn’t have a thing wrong with it, which for these cars sounds rare.. It does have the crack in the rear hatch, but everything else is 100% functional in the vehicle.

I bought it with 88k miles on it in September, the previous owner had the transmission rebuilt in June so that should be good for a while... We have enjoyed the vehicle, I like the power but the fuel economy is less than I expected. Averaging 12-13mpg around town and 16mpg on the highway. This thread has a wealth of information but it has my head spinning. And I am hoping you all can help me out with a few questions.

My first question is simple, I changed the oil in my aviator yesterday and I put the recommended 6qts in it but it appears to be overfilled. How much oil do you put in your vehicles? And does anyone know the torque spec for the oil drain plug? I can’t find that info anywhere.

Secondly, I understand that various things in the interior of these vehicles will need attention over time however that doesn’t bother me very much. I am more concerned about the motor and drivetrain. The trans has been rebuilt so I am going to have to assume that is good for now. But as I understand from this thread it looks like these motors have some issues associated with the heads? And I have also read about the transfer cases going out. Is there any preventative maintenance or modifications that I can make now in hopes of making these two items more reliable? My wife drives my daughter around in the vehicle so I want it to be reliable… Ultimately if this isn’t the right car for us I want to make that determination now so that I can sell it while it has nothing wrong with it and get us into something else…

Any help appreciated.

I will attach some pics of the vehicle. I think someone took good care of it, it even came with the original headphones for the DVD player! Impressive.
I always put 4qts in and start checking the level, i honestly cant remember how many mine takes but i like mine to be right past the full mark slightly. .these motor heads hold alot of oil meaning they dont drain the oil back down fast especially when turning higher rpms..this can cause the pump to go dry..typically the normal person never has to worry about this,its more for those that turn alot of rpms..the Mustang guys have this issue alot (same motor)..so if its just slightly over full i wouldnt worry about it..

I dont know the tq for the drain..

As for the problem with the heads...you have the DC cast heads,they are the BEST heads ford ever made..they really haven't had many if any issues. .the DB heads in 03-04 still have the loose seat and guide issues even though they were said to be ""updated"", it wasnt fixed till late 04 with the DC cast heads..
 






Mine was manufactured 12/04. Do I for sure have the good heads? Is there any way I can check?
 






Mine was manufactured 12/04. Do I for sure have the good heads? Is there any way I can check?
Look on the side of the head,the cast will wnd in DC or DB..DB are not bad heads just prone to seats coming loose..

I could see mine through the driver side fender well..
00Z0Z_atWiPnDWcMj_600x450.jpg
 



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Thank you, I was just able to verify my heads are stamped DC.
 






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