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The everything Aviator thread.




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An awesome menber on Lincolnforums.com named Slick Fan posted some very helpful info and these two pics..
"I haven't had to deal with this part yet with my Aviator, but doing an internet search, I believe this is what you need...part # 2C5Z9J559AA. Looking at mine, it looks like it's on the rear of the intake manifold, mounted low. And of course, it doesn't look like it will be much fun to change. LOL "
aviator-imrc.jpg

aviator-imrc2.jpg

Hey WKbogie, so i think on my 2004 Lincoln Aviator i'm also having problems with the Intake Runner Control valve, or at least that's what my buddy who's a mechanic told me when the service engine light came on. I noticed the truck had a serious problem when i was at a red light, and then when going at the green when i hit the accelerator the truck barely moved from idle, but the RPM's shot up. BUT once i got the truck home, (thankfully was only 2 min away and was going like 5mph lol) after letting it sit idle to show my friend the truck started accelerating like normal! After checking it with the tool my mechanic friend said the IMRC would have to replaced, only problem is that part, 2c5z9j559aa, is obsolete and no one currently has one for sale. I've looked on over 10 different sites and i can't get one anywhere. I just wanted to ask you if you were able to fix your problem with a part from a different vehicle that was compatible, and if you have any other advice you could give me. Any help would be appreciated man!
 






Intake Runner Control IMRC

Hey WKbogie, so i think on my 2004 Lincoln Aviator i'm also having problems with the Intake Runner Control valve, or at least that's what my buddy who's a mechanic told me when the service engine light came on. I noticed the truck had a serious problem when i was at a red light, and then when going at the green when i hit the accelerator the truck barely moved from idle, but the RPM's shot up. BUT once i got the truck home, (thankfully was only 2 min away and was going like 5mph lol) after letting it sit idle to show my friend the truck started accelerating like normal! After checking it with the tool my mechanic friend said the IMRC would have to replaced, only problem is that part, 2c5z9j559aa, is obsolete and no one currently has one for sale. I've looked on over 10 different sites and i can't get one anywhere. I just wanted to ask you if you were able to fix your problem with a part from a different vehicle that was compatible, and if you have any other advice you could give me. Any help would be appreciated man!

So sorry for the delayed response. This week was crazy busy.
Well this thing is called a bunch of different things including "intake valve", IMTV, ect.
My issue was the truck went into limp mode on the highway. I had it towed to the shop where they hooked up the OBD2 and said I needed a new IMRC. I was told this controls the variable Intake at different revs. The quote was $1500. It would not go over 10mph. After a week of sitting and disconnecting the battery, it worked and drove fine for 3 miles, then went limp again.

It turns out there are a couple things this can be:
1.Stuck intake valves- You have to remove the intake manifold and free them
2. Bad wiring to the variable IMRC (little black box)
3. The small 4", bent rod in the back of the IMRC has come loose due to old plastic bushings.

Mine is #3 . I bought some new bushings form Autozone in the "Help" section for $3. The problem is replacing them and getting the arms in the correct position to insert the rods. I still have not installed mine b/c I think I am going to try to take off the IMRC while blindly fiddling around back there. Then install the bushings and the rod on the IMRC. Then reinstall the IMRC on the back of the upper intake manifold.:hammer:

If that doesn't work, I will do it the way the mechanics would and remove all items above the manifold. Remove the upper manifold. Install the bushings and rod. Replace the Intake gasket. Reinstall the upper intake manifold. install all the things above the manifold. :thumbdwn:

Good luck and I hope this at least helps a little:chug:
 






Hey WKbogie if you want I can get you a used one, I know where is a 2003/04 aviator but I will need a pic of the part if you want.
Let me know

Ivan

So sorry for the delayed response. This week was crazy busy.
Well this thing is called a bunch of different things including "intake valve", IMTV, ect.
My issue was the truck went into limp mode on the highway. I had it towed to the shop where they hooked up the OBD2 and said I needed a new IMRC. I was told this controls the variable Intake at different revs. The quote was $1500. It would not go over 10mph. After a week of sitting and disconnecting the battery, it worked and drove fine for 3 miles, then went limp again.

It turns out there are a couple things this can be:
1.Stuck intake valves- You have to remove the intake manifold and free them
2. Bad wiring to the variable IMRC (little black box)
3. The small 4", bent rod in the back of the IMRC has come loose due to old plastic bushings.

Mine is #3 . I bought some new bushings form Autozone in the "Help" section for $3. The problem is replacing them and getting the arms in the correct position to insert the rods. I still have not installed mine b/c I think I am going to try to take off the IMRC while blindly fiddling around back there. Then install the bushings and the rod on the IMRC. Then reinstall the IMRC on the back of the upper intake manifold.:hammer:

If that doesn't work, I will do it the way the mechanics would and remove all items above the manifold. Remove the upper manifold. Install the bushings and rod. Replace the Intake gasket. Reinstall the upper intake manifold. install all the things above the manifold. :thumbdwn:

Good luck and I hope this at least helps a little:chug:
 






Imrc

Hey WKbogie if you want I can get you a used one, I know where is a 2003/04 aviator but I will need a pic of the part if you want.
Let me know

Ivan

Ivan,
That would be awesome! It is the black box in post #282 above. I thought I found one locally really cheap, but it was cracked when they removed the engine.
So, yes, let me know if you have one.
Thanks,
Bogie

It is to the top right beside the rubber retaining strap (and under the braided heat tube covering) in this picture at the rear of the upper intake. It is about 5"x5"
intake-manifold2.jpg
 






Hey guys, thoughtI would post some more deatails on the intake manifold runner control/ air valve module. I removed mine and saw the reason it does not work. Not only was my 4" curved connector bar dangling from one side due to bad bushings, but I was missing the 2" dogleg piece (red circle in pic) that connects it to the pass side intake valves. I tried to make one but connecting it is tough. I am going to use 12gauge wire and aluminum spacer to keep the middle rigid. I will let you know how it works out. Here are some pics...

Mine
20160715_160542.jpg
.
Drivers side intake lever. (attached to engine):
20160715_155615.jpg

Pass side intake lever:
20160715_155852.jpg

20160715_160154.jpg

Missing piece circled on IMRC example. (not mine)
aviatorimrcmissingpiece.jpg
 






Has anyone dropped the oil pan before? How do I get that thing out, I think my pick up may be clogged.
 






Hey WKbogie if you want I can get you a used one, I know where is a 2003/04 aviator but I will need a pic of the part if you want.
Let me know

Ivan
Ivan, can you check into a hatch/lift gate actuator panel. I think my lift gate actuator is dead. PM me if this si something you can help me find. I don't see Aviators in the local pick n pull yards here.

Thx
 






Hey, I'm new here. But I'm buying a 2005 Aviator today and wondering if there's anything I should know to check/or get checked out? It only has 66,000 miles on it and I'm excited by all the good reviews I've read here. Thanks in advance!
 






I need help..just bought a 03 with a miss..replaced about everything then did compression test #7 had 90lb..figured bad guides and exhaust seat..start to pull heads and see this..it also has "DB" heads on both sides

Why do my intake ports look cracked? ?these are passengers side..all of them look close to this,some much worse than others..

20160802_193212_zpslsiyvq8q.jpg


20160802_193349_zpstcx4yi9r.jpg


20160802_193358_zpsolpiqtcd.jpg
 






Hey, I'm new here. But I'm buying a 2005 Aviator today and wondering if there's anything I should know to check/or get checked out? It only has 66,000 miles on it and I'm excited by all the good reviews I've read here. Thanks in advance!

Check how the transmission shifts. There was a huge design flaw in the 5r55s in that the servos are steel and the transmission is aluminum. Go through the gears and see if there is a hesitation or delay in shifting. When you're in third gear, step on the gas and get it to drop to second, see if there's hesitation. When it's cold, see if there is a clacking coming from the engine, that stops when the engine is warmed up. This could be your timing chain guides. Take off the driver's side coil-over-plug cover. Take out the plug closest to the driver and see if it's rusty in that shaft. The seals on that cover dry out and water gets in. You'll probably notice the shaft towards front of the engine is still shiny and smooth. While driving, see if there is a drone or a humming that gets louder the faster you get. It will be either in the front or the rear. This might be your differential needing service. And lastly, check for even tire wear. AWD's are prone to transfer case burnout when owners don't rotate the tires properly. If the front or rear tires have noticeably more tread than the other pair, the transfer case will sense that your truck is slipping and constantly engage/disengage (assuming it's a viscous coupler like the prev gen, i'm not 100% sure but google says it probably is).
 






I need help..just bought a 03 with a miss..replaced about everything then did compression test #7 had 90lb..figured bad guides and exhaust seat..start to pull heads and see this..it also has "DB" heads on both sides

Why do my intake ports look cracked? ?these are passengers side..all of them look close to this,some much worse than others..

20160802_193212_zpslsiyvq8q.jpg


20160802_193349_zpstcx4yi9r.jpg


20160802_193358_zpsolpiqtcd.jpg

I think those are speed holes? The 2003-2004 had design flaws in the heads. I read on one of the forums that the dealer tradeins always take into account that the heads had to be rebuilt.
 






Ivan, can you check into a hatch/lift gate actuator panel. I think my lift gate actuator is dead. PM me if this si something you can help me find. I don't see Aviators in the local pick n pull yards here.

Thx

These guys had a 2004 they were stripping. Not sure if it's still there, but you have a great exchange rate with the canadian dollar right now.

http://aandvautoparts.com/
 






Check how the transmission shifts. There was a huge design flaw in the 5r55s in that the servos are steel and the transmission is aluminum. Go through the gears and see if there is a hesitation or delay in shifting. When you're in third gear, step on the gas and get it to drop to second, see if there's hesitation. When it's cold, see if there is a clacking coming from the engine, that stops when the engine is warmed up. This could be your timing chain guides. Take off the driver's side coil-over-plug cover. Take out the plug closest to the driver and see if it's rusty in that shaft. The seals on that cover dry out and water gets in. You'll probably notice the shaft towards front of the engine is still shiny and smooth. While driving, see if there is a drone or a humming that gets louder the faster you get. It will be either in the front or the rear. This might be your differential needing service. And lastly, check for even tire wear. AWD's are prone to transfer case burnout when owners don't rotate the tires properly. If the front or rear tires have noticeably more tread than the other pair, the transfer case will sense that your truck is slipping and constantly engage/disengage (assuming it's a viscous coupler like the prev gen, i'm not 100% sure but google says it probably is).
Thank you!! I love my Aviator already even though it has the standard aesthetic issues (ie flaking rims, rear hatch plastic cracked). I'm going to go through your suggestions like a checklist this weekend. She runs smoothly but never hurts to look and prepare for potential issues.
 






I need help..just bought a 03 with a miss..replaced about everything then did compression test #7 had 90lb..figured bad guides and exhaust seat..start to pull heads and see this..it also has "DB" heads on both sides

Why do my intake ports look cracked? ?these are passengers side..all of them look close to this,some much worse than others..

I'm in the middle of an engine swap and took a look at the intake ports in the heads of the engine I'm pulling out, I see the same lines, especially on the passenger side. My first guess is casting flash and that the mold pieces used for the intake ports were mis-aligned, looking at the port walls I see similar lines.

Once I'm done with the swap, hopefully this weekend, I'll see about pulling that head and taking another look and get some pics.
 






Has anyone dropped the oil pan before? How do I get that thing out, I think my pick up may be clogged.


Here's the steps from the service manual:

Oil Pan
  • Removal
    • With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
    • Drain the engine oil.
    • Remove the front stabilizer bar. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01A .
      • 4WD vehicles:
        • CAUTION: Do not allow the inner halfshaft boots to contact the lower control arms. Damage to the boots can occur.
        • NOTE: Support the front axle using an appropriate jack. Lower the front axle approximately 150 mm (6 in).
      • Remove the 3 front axle bolts and lower the axle.
    • Remove the 4 crossmember bolts and the crossmember.
      • Remove the 2 torque converter inspection cover bolts and the inspection cover.
      • CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs, or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These can cause scratches and gouges resulting in leak paths. Use a plastic scraper to clean the sealing surfaces.
      • NOTE: Clean the sealing surfaces with metal surface cleaner.
    • Remove the 16 oil pan bolts and the oil pan. Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

  • Installation
    • NOTE: If the oil pan and gasket are not secured within 4 minutes of sealer application, the sealant must be removed and the sealing surfaces cleaned with metal surface cleaner.
    • Apply silicone gasket and sealant in 2 places.
      • <Image shows sealant on both sides at the seam where the rear cover attaches to the block>
    • Apply silicone gasket and sealant in 2 places.
      • <Image shows sealant on both sides at the seam where the front cover attaches to the block>
    • Position the oil pan and tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
      • Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
      • Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
      • Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
      • 0996b43f80202a5f.jpg
    • Install the torque converter inspection cover and the 2 bolts.
    • Tighten to 34 Nm (26 lb-ft).
    • Install the crossmember and the 4 crossmember bolts.
    • Tighten to 95 Nm (70 lb-ft).
      • 4WD vehicles
        • CAUTION: Do not allow the inner halfshaft boots to contact the lower control arms. Damage to the boots can occur.
        • NOTE: Support the front axle using an appropriate jack. Lower the front axle approximately 150 mm (6 in).
      • Raise and install the front axle and the 3 bolts.
      • Tighten to 100 Nm (76 lb-ft).
    • Install the front stabilizer bar. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01A .
    • Fill the engine with clean oil.

Also, the Autozone website has a repair help section that is pretty good with steps and diagrams. The diagrams look to be straight from the Ford service manuals, it's where I borrowed the bolt sequence image above.
 






I'm in the middle of an engine swap and took a look at the intake ports in the heads of the engine I'm pulling out, I see the same lines, especially on the passenger side. My first guess is casting flash and that the mold pieces used for the intake ports were mis-aligned, looking at the port walls I see similar lines.

Once I'm done with the swap, hopefully this weekend, I'll see about pulling that head and taking another look and get some pics.

Yea they are,found other pictures. .the heads are at the shop. .#7 exhaust valve is toast and #5 intake was leaking bad also..all the valves had chatter marks on them and the seats..he said he doubt any of them sealed 100% from the start..

I ordered a new set of valves from MMR to replace them all..he is going to install all new hardened exhaust seats and broonze guides, then a valve job and deck the head..

All the pistons looked good and walls were smooth and had hatching..

Here's the steps from the service manual:

Oil Pan
  • Removal
    • With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
    • Drain the engine oil.
    • Remove the front stabilizer bar. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01A .
      • 4WD vehicles:
        • CAUTION: Do not allow the inner halfshaft boots to contact the lower control arms. Damage to the boots can occur.
        • NOTE: Support the front axle using an appropriate jack. Lower the front axle approximately 150 mm (6 in).
      • Remove the 3 front axle bolts and lower the axle.
    • Remove the 4 crossmember bolts and the crossmember.
      • Remove the 2 torque converter inspection cover bolts and the inspection cover.
      • CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs, or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These can cause scratches and gouges resulting in leak paths. Use a plastic scraper to clean the sealing surfaces.
      • NOTE: Clean the sealing surfaces with metal surface cleaner.
    • Remove the 16 oil pan bolts and the oil pan. Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

  • Installation
    • NOTE: If the oil pan and gasket are not secured within 4 minutes of sealer application, the sealant must be removed and the sealing surfaces cleaned with metal surface cleaner.
    • Apply silicone gasket and sealant in 2 places.
      • <Image shows sealant on both sides at the seam where the rear cover attaches to the block>
    • Apply silicone gasket and sealant in 2 places.
      • <Image shows sealant on both sides at the seam where the front cover attaches to the block>
    • Position the oil pan and tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
      • Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
      • Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
      • Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
      • 0996b43f80202a5f.jpg
    • Install the torque converter inspection cover and the 2 bolts.
    • Tighten to 34 Nm (26 lb-ft).
    • Install the crossmember and the 4 crossmember bolts.
    • Tighten to 95 Nm (70 lb-ft).
      • 4WD vehicles
        • CAUTION: Do not allow the inner halfshaft boots to contact the lower control arms. Damage to the boots can occur.
        • NOTE: Support the front axle using an appropriate jack. Lower the front axle approximately 150 mm (6 in).
      • Raise and install the front axle and the 3 bolts.
      • Tighten to 100 Nm (76 lb-ft).
    • Install the front stabilizer bar. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01A .
    • Fill the engine with clean oil.

Also, the Autozone website has a repair help section that is pretty good with steps and diagrams. The diagrams look to be straight from the Ford service manuals, it's where I borrowed the bolt sequence image above.

Im in the process of dropping my pan right now to find a 2" missing section of my broken passenger lower chain guide..going to clean my pickup also..im 2wd though. .

And for the record. .the heads can come off with motor in vehicle unlike the ford manual says..took me about 6 hours and i had NO CLUE what i was doing,first mod motor or even OHC worked on.. ;)

20160804_190953_zpsosvqdgly.jpg
 






Yea they are,found other pictures. .the heads are at the shop. .#7 exhaust valve is toast and #5 intake was leaking bad also..all the valves had chatter marks on them and the seats..he said he doubt any of them sealed 100% from the start..

I ordered a new set of valves from MMR to replace them all..he is going to install all new hardened exhaust seats and broonze guides, then a valve job and deck the head..

All the pistons looked good and walls were smooth and had hatching..



Im in the process of dropping my pan right now to find a 2" missing section of my broken passenger lower chain guide..going to clean my pickup also..im 2wd though. .

And for the record. .the heads can come off with motor in vehicle unlike the ford manual says..took me about 6 hours and i had NO CLUE what i was doing,first mod motor or even OHC worked on.. ;)

Nice work, glad to know those lines are just flash.

As long as you have it apart, you might want to replace the oil filter adapter gasket. I've had them fail in both my Mark VIII and the Aviator, the Aviator was easier to fix, but even easier with all the kibble out of the way.
 






Nice work, glad to know those lines are just flash.

As long as you have it apart, you might want to replace the oil filter adapter gasket. I've had them fail in both my Mark VIII and the Aviator, the Aviator was easier to fix, but even easier with all the kibble out of the way.
Thanks for the advice, ill do that.took the tstat housing off to replace that one also
 



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Hey does anyone make a bolt in TRUE cold air intake for these trucks?? Or even a short ram with a box??
 






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