The Juggernaut 97 EX 5.0 | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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The Juggernaut 97 EX 5.0

Looks good, thanks for the pictures. Did you reused your u bolts by chance? I've heard many different answers on the u bolts...

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Jst Cruz, when i put (1) set on my brother in laws cherokee, it was about 1-1/2 inches, but it is lighter than our EX's. so i would say 1/2- 1 inch. I bought and used (2) sets on mine, and it completely got rid of my gangsta lean.

Adub98, yes i reused my u-bolts with this set-up. i did have to use c-claimps to compress the springs to get them back on, but i have plenty of room on my existing u-bolts.

still have to search to find the size bolts used in the torsion bar adjusters. i'm thinking i may need a slightly longer one for the drivers side. it's 2wd, so CV joints not an issue.

Okay i got a bit done this weekend. first of all i lifted my front to within 3/4 of an inch of the rear. it's hard to tell, because of my parking place at work is slanted. but on level concrete. i am within 3/4ths.

Here i am sitting next to a stock explorer sport

The next thing was this... i had two large twelves, and an amp taking up my entire cargo area. sounded great, but i like having that area. Also, without tinting all my rear windows, i was also a bit paranoid, about anyone passing by, could see that BIG box, two twelves, and large amp. and busting my windows out to steal it. so i went to PNP, and found an EB, that was kind enought to donate it's factory MACH subwoofer, box and cover. i was even lucky that it was the same color as my interior. so i removed this:

and removed the factory "busted" speaker that was in the enclosure, and bought this.

I then put two layers of double sided tape, but left the outer layer with the tape on between the comp sub and the box, for sealing/vibration protection, so in case i needed to remove the sub for whatever reason, i could. i then installed it in the "stock" "EB" location. fit like a glove. i only had to drill 1 hole in the floor for the bottom mounting bracket. and so it was installed.

I then prepped the cover, by adding small tabs of the double sided tape, to prevent a vibrating cover. i was careful in removing it from the EB, so that the tabs would remain usable.

I then installed the cover

and made a small metal plate, that i painted black, and put the Kicker decal, (1 of 2), that came with the sub., above it, to give "props", and to cover the three small holes i had from the original brackets i had holding the top of the Big sub box in place.

I did not use the factory amp, i left that at PNP. it would have been an additional cost, plus i had another amp, (also a smaller) Power acoustic amp, that was ready to hook into place, and used two of the original factory amp mounting bolt locations. and hidden behind this panel. so before i actually put the side cover and front cover etc, on, i tuned/adjusted the amp, to the sub, and my HU. so once installed, everything was hidden. it does not sound like two MTX 12's, but i am happy with it. still has some thump, sounds good in the EX, and i have a clean cargo area.

next on the list?? trying to decide. more exterior chrome, CAI, Exhaust, overhead DVD monitor, for traveling... we will see what i get into next.. the saga continues....

curious to see what you di with the CAI i would like to do something as well but have not made up my mind...

I then put two layers of double sided tape, but left the outer layer with the tape on between the comp sub and the box, for sealing/vibration protection, so in case i needed to remove the sub for whatever reason, i could.

Was the stock gasket between the Speaker and Box in bad shape?
Didn't the Kicker come with a new gasket?

I ask because I was trying to figure out why you used the double sided tape as a gasket and not something else...

They are the bump stop brackets.. For the rangers, thats where the factory bumpstop get installed, im not sure if the EX's use them or not but a lot of this stuff is interchangeable to multiple vehicles.

Nice Ex man!!:thumbsup:

Apparently they're jacking points.

The X has the bumpstops elswhere.

The gasket was shot. and the kicker does not come with a gasket. The original speaker has a bolt that comes in from the back to lock it all together also, and the kicker did not. The kicker is exactly the correct mounting depth, with the magnet touching the back. the two layers of double sided, allows approximately 1/8 inch off the back, so no vibration. (yes it had two strips inside (between the magnet, and box) to keep this tight, and vibration free), as well as seals the speaker around the housing. the factory (mach) cover keeps you from seeing any of the tape, even if you are looking directly at it face on.

Nice Juggernaut, I was wondering about the depth as well, I just may use this idea to save my space, then I'll just mount my CarPC on the back seat (or somewhere)

What's the depth of the Kicker Comp 8?

I also ordered my longer TT bolts from Fastenal yesterday, they are supposed to be here Friday. My D/S bolt is maxed out, and i still want to get 3/4 inch more lift.

Okay got a little more done this weekend. My new grade 8.8 bolts came in from Fastenal. The bolts themselves were only about $3.00 each. Fastenal added $7.60 or so in shipping and handeling. so the final cost of them, was a little over $14.00

After putting a metric nut on the bolts, to clean the threads after i ground the end round. i did this to make sure it properly seated itself in the Torsion Keys, i did this for both sides.

After installation, i lifted the front another 3/4 inch, to level it a bit more. i have a lot of adjustement left, but with this the ride is still comfortable, and yet looks level. parking next to a stock 4 door, EX this weekend at Wally world, I am quite a bit taller than stock. Actually quite a lot taller, LOL.

This is after the second TT Bolt adjustment. it can be compared to pic below. The pic on top is before the new TT Bolts. i still have probably close to 1 3/4 inches or more of adjustment left on the longer bolts.



I then moved the fog lights to below, instead of in the slot by the tag. i am planning on complete billet inserts, upper and lower, so they needed to get re-located.
I then turned my attention to the inner part of my grille. A lot of the factory silver had worn off, leaving that (really nice, LOL) plastic i prepped it for painting. Besides just making it look better for now, it will also be easier to hide behind the billet inserts when i get them.

Then after painting i ended up with this. it even makes the chrome stand out more. i have been asked about the stick holding my hood. my hood shocks do hold the hood up very well. a couple of weeks ago, i was working on the headlights with the hood open, a gust of wind came up and pushed the hood closed. i just happen to see it coming and moved my hand in the nick of time. so the wood, is just a protection from another wind gust. LOL

I also ordered new headlights. they should be in this week. they are stock replacement, but they will show my new light bulbs that i already installed quite a bit more (since they are new, and much clearer.). I also installed new blue, (very white), H3 bulbs in my driving lights that i moved. they originally had that sort of yellowish look, that didn't go well with my ultra bright headlights.

Oh yes, and something so small i almost forgot. Over the weekend i replaced the windshield wiper blades. I went with the PEAK brand, flat blade technology blades. i was skeptical with no metal frames, but i am impressed. great even pressure, and wipes extremely well. Now i just have to Paint my wiper arms, LOL.

great build! how come you got replacement headlights and not some projector lens with hid? or a retrofit just curious since that is a common mod around here...

Looks good, thanks for the pictures. How much did you lift your front? Seems like a lot.

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PBnJ22 Truthfully, i wanted to keep the stock appearance, and by adjusting my headlights a bit lower, it keeps from blinding anyone.

this setup allowed just over 3 inches front and rear.