..:shifty_ey ..Don't you guys have anything better to do this weekend like go and "Dimple Die" something or "Expo" something with a wiffle ball bat..
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..I'm going to add some more info here (for those who stumble across this thread in the future) and are looking for wheel info..
..American made..The proof..
..How the stem sits inside for more protection than standard wheels..
..Oh yea...I can't forget the color whoops..
..I'm going to try and hang in there to see if these will fade back to silver out here and if it drives me more ..
.. then I will head down to my local commercial hardware store and buy a few boxes of bolts..
..At least the nuts are still silver..
...These wheels are 15x8 5x4.5 with 3.75" backspacing which is the preferred b.s. for my ranger as well as first gen Explorers (same TTB set up)..This helped push the tire out from being tucked way under with the stock wheels..
..I previously still had a rub on my custom R.A.'s at full lock but that is 99% gone now as I can (by forcing it) barely get it to rub when locking hard left...That's a pretty good test for brand new tires and street driven..Offroad will present other rubbing (AKA self clearancing) but I have some other stuff I need to work on before this heads offroad again..
..The stance now..
Note: these wheels are not Hubcentric
They are now lugcentric..
Definition = the difference
Some factory wheels have a centerbore that matches exactly with the hub to reduce vibration by keeping the wheel centered. Wheels with the correct centerbore to the car they will be mounted on are known as hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels take the stress off the lug nuts, reducing the job of the lug nuts to center the wheel to the car. Wheels that are not hubcentric are known as lugcentric, as the job of centering is done by the lug nuts assuming they are properly torqued down.
Examples
..My stock wheel was hubcentric..
..My new wheel is not Hubcentric...The dark part between the lugs is the axle hub and the shiny part between the lugs is actually the rotor and not the preferred hub of the axle..(I will ultra flatblack shiny stuff later you fools..:mattmoon:..you know who you are.. )
..Now this brings up the need of some lug nuts to actually hold this wheel centered and in place since the hub can no longer do the job..
..The lug nuts in the previous two pics are actually stock, have a "tapered seat" (AKA conical seat), and are known as "through" lug nuts and their size are 1/2x20...Through nuts eliminate length issues such as I am having with these new wheels (if I want new lug nuts)..
..I kept the stock lug nuts since the steel wheels are over a 1/2" thinner than alloys are so it may take some doing but finding a longer set locally is not happening and the stock set is probably the best fit of all and are cheap to replace anywhere in the States..
..This is an "Acorn" lug nut which comes with a tapered seat.
...Here are a couple examples of after market packages of "Acorn" lugnuts which will work on the stock wheels and other alloy wheels for our vehicles..(again, these are at least 1/2" to short to use with steel wheels)..
..and last but not least, a couple pics of the Ranger with new tires and wheels..
Weights
..I almost forgot to add what weights were needed for these 5 new tires..The low was 1.5 oz. and the most was 2.5oz..My X has been known to take 9.5 oz..
..get it?..Haha..Anyway... the thought I could easily rattlecan any scuffs and in the future, these wheels would be perfect candidates to cut for true bead locks..
