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The Ultimate Lift Kit

95offroadx

Explorer Addict
Joined
June 17, 2004
Messages
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City, State
Palmyra, Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 explorer xlt
After spending countless amounts of money on my Dana 35 TTB and 8.8", i just cant swap them out. So Ive decided to put together "THE Ultimate Suspension lift". Mix matching parts from other lift kits, along with making slight modifactions to the lift parts. First off Im trying to do this with keeping the price under $500, because you can by a brand new base(rough country) lift kit for that price. But it will perform like a class 2 skyjacker, maybe even the camburg kit.

Im shooting for 7" of lift and 12"+ of travel, and improve handling and driveablity


Parts already collected
-6" skyjacker lift coils
-5.5" superlift axle pivot brackets
-Superlift extended radius arms w/ brackets
-superlift superrunner steering
Amounts spent so far-$300

Parts that are still needed
- Doetsch Tech 12" and 14" travel shocks
-radius arm bushings
-sway bar dissconnects
-Traction Bars
-1" lift blocks

Parts the Im reusing(already installed)
-F150 coil seats
-SOA
Planning on having it done before june. So keep and eye out for pictures. This is the thread ill post my pics and ask my questions.
 
Last edited:



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i'm curious...how much was your axle pivot brackets and your radius arms by themselves? and how come they didn't come with bushings??? and did you buy them new???
 






Don't lift blocks take away suspension travel?...if so why not go with extended shackels which add suspension travel.
 






No im bought USED parts. Got them both for $150!

I never heard that blocks take away. The just dont add anything. Since when did shackles add travel?(other then revovlers)

With having 7" of lift, will i need to extended my driveshafts? If soo how much. I thought i heard that a SOA(which is 5.5" of lift) is the max for the rear driveshaft. So since im adding 1.5" more lift. Will my rear shaft need to be extended 1.5"?

I want to have the driveshaft ready when I install all my other parts. So i cant really wait till i do it.
 






i seen on superlift.com they had a writeup there on driveshafts and what size lifts...i think 5.5 is max but go there and check, they had some decent info on that...
 






i think shackels do because you have 1.5 inches more space from the frame where a block would just be like having a taller perch.
 






No im bought USED parts. Got them both for $150!

I never heard that blocks take away. The just dont add anything. Since when did shackles add travel?(other then revovlers)

With having 7" of lift, will i need to extended my driveshafts? If soo how much. I thought i heard that a SOA(which is 5.5" of lift) is the max for the rear driveshaft. So since im adding 1.5" more lift. Will my rear shaft need to be extended 1.5"?

I want to have the driveshaft ready when I install all my other parts. So i cant really wait till i do it.


A longer shackle wont give you more travel persay, it allows your springs to flatten out more which in turn lets you use more travel that you already have.
 






oh, but adding shackles will mess up my almost perfect pinion angle.


I was looking on my 99 parts mounty and it appears to have a rear traction bar or some sort, could i use this? i was thinking about extending it
 






oh, but adding shackles will mess up my almost perfect pinion angle.


I was looking on my 99 parts mounty and it appears to have a rear traction bar or some sort, could i use this? i was thinking about extending it

Are you talking about the shock going from the frame to the pumpkin? If so it's not a traction bar it's just supposed to help make for smoother ride, and I would think that it would limit suspension travel as well.
 






no there is one on each side of the rear. Between the leafspring and the tire.
 






Few questions.

Why do you need traction bars?

Im not getting the ultimate lift thing, its a superlift kit with skyjacker coils?

Are you planning (if your not, you should be) to modify the shock towers to fit those shocks?

Are you aware the superlift superrunner steering kit is not meant to be used with lifts of over 6" (IE: 6" coils and 1.5" coil seats)

Shackles will mess with your "almost perfect" pinion angle as much as lift blocks do. As far as I now the superlift extended radius arms dont use the drop brackets, just the stock ones. As for the driveshaft question, you have been around here long enough to know to search. Plus I know youve asked that question quite a few times before.

And post pics of these trac bars on your mounty.
 






After spending countless amounts of money on my Dana 35 TTB and 8.8", i just cant swap them out. So Ive decided to put together "THE Ultimate Suspension lift". Mix matching parts from other lift kits, along with making slight modifactions to the lift parts. First off Im trying to do this with keeping the price under $500, because you can by a brand new base(rough country) lift kit for that price. But it will perform like a class 2 skyjacker, maybe even the camburg kit.

Im shooting for 7" of lift and 12"+ of travel, and improve handling and driveablity


Parts already collected
-6" skyjacker lift coils
-5.5" superlift axle pivot brackets
-Superlift extended radius arms w/ brackets
-superlift superrunner steering
Amounts spent so far-$300

Parts that are still needed
- Doetsch Tech 12" and 14" travel shocks
-radius arm bushings
-sway bar dissconnects
-Traction Bars
-1" lift blocks

Parts the Im reusing(already installed)
-F150 coil seats
-SOA
Planning on having it done before june. So keep and eye out for pictures. This is the thread ill post my pics and ask my questions.


from what i know,

skyjacker coils = good

superlift brackets are good for the price (cut and turned would be the best)

superlift arms, you might want to reinforce them a bit in the front. i have them and cracked them almost all the way through in the front. they also seem to be a bit short. but like you i got them used and they seem to do well (and look pretty cool too)

traction bars would be good if you can get them to work and if they don't limit your flex.

lift blocks are a no no. if its just for looks, lift blocks would be fine. for actualy offroading no. longer shackles will give you more travel (letting the wheel drop more)


disconnects are always nice

with the skyjacker springs and f-150 seats, that should end up with about 6-6 1/2" of lift (s/j springs saging to 4.5")

sounds good though
 






axle to frame, ill get pics tomorrow, they might not be tractions bars but i dont know what else they could be.

The extended radius arms came with drop brackets also. And to a suprise the radius arms are already reiforced! i love used stuff sometimes lol.

If it was a superlift with skyjacker coils, it would also have superlift shocks lol. and only 6". Im going with what i can get my hands on guys, and without spending over $500.

I was thinking about getting new coil buckets with new shock mounts.

How will lift blocks mess up my pinion angle? i tilted my diff when i did a soa.

As for not gettin the blocks, Im adding a 1" maybe 1.5" lift block, to get the rear to sit close to level, I dont really have the money to swing for new springs

Yea i heard the sj coils sag a lot. I might end up throwing .5" of spacers under the f150 coil seats.

As for the superrunner steering, i stole the idea from another member, i also talked to some over at therangerstation about it. They are more TTB friendly people over there. Everyone here says solid over here(dont get off topic this isnt about a solid axle, or am i saying they are bad, im just running with my idea). BUt im going to get a extended swing arm, and a xtreme drop pitman arm
 






What's wrong with the lift on your truck already? Put a 3" body lift on and you have your 7" for about $120...
 






It is the old version of the rc lift with axle pivot extension. Im looking for something with more travel and a better ride. Im dont want a body lift, they look like ass. I dont want to see the frame and gas tank more then i already do.

Im also lookin for a little more lift so 35's can be added with out much triming
 






yes! no body lift! those are kinda gross haha
 






Even with the running boards removed, theres really not much frame coming through.. at least not on the 2nd gen. This is with 3" pucks. Snowboard88 I believe runs a body lift too and his rig is a first gen, so take a look at his pics.

sitting3.jpg


Plus the body lift helps when stuffing the rear wheel wells

paragon_11.jpg
 






well i will say explorers hide the frame way better then chevys lol
 






well i will say explorers hide the frame way better then chevys lol
Das is true ya - my friend's S10 4dr Blazer sports the same puck height as my Explorer does and his frame rail is out there blinging away cauz the rail is so tall :eek:. But on that note, I guess the Chevy's have a stronger chassis due to a larger cross section ;)
 



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OH, IZWACK- CONGRATS! on making readers ride in petersons!(kinda late lol)
 






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