Think Tank - Help me figure out what's wrong.

[sajaylu]

Hey Guys,

My name is Dave and I have a 1997 Explorer 4.0L SOHC 4WD, It was a hand me down from my aunt who never used it and I recently found out she had good reason. I wanna fix it up and use it cause my Taurus is having transmission trouble... lol I would like a hand from every one who has time and is interested in helping me figure out what to do what what is wrong and or should I just simply give it back.

When you start the car the first thing you notice is its rough Idle... its pretty bad. I went to auto zone and they pulled some codes. I don't remember the codes cause the guys there ripped them off the receipt. In any case it said something about Vacuum lines and the exhaust and fuel pressure.

From what I already know... there is a hole in the exhaust right before the catalytic converter... So thats the Exhaust code there.

She has been using it without a fuel cap... and I am guessing this is where the bad gas mileage and fuel pressure issue comes from

But that one bit about the Vacuum line got me way off. I'm going back tomorrow to get the codes again and imma post an update.

Another this... is after 30minutes or more of driving the O/D light starts to blink. My uncle tells me its a transmission thing. I am sure he is right but when its blinking it has a slight hard shift when its shifting... when its not blinking or when the truck cools down its perfectly fine.

I am assuming since the engine oil is blacker than my keyboard the transmission oil isn't in good shape either.. I checked it and its a slightly dark pinkish color with no silvery stuff... if that makes any sense. my Taurus has silvery stuff and I have to take it easy on it or it will start to slip. Thats another story there.

Lastly on a full tank it might do 200 miles...


This is what I have done to it so far..


Changed the spark plugs, Put some Lucus oil in the engine till I am ready to chance the oil... can't fine a filter, Cleaned the throttle plate and body... new air filter..

At first I was just trying to get it not to idle and suck gas the way it does... but I am in a Taurus auto club and they are a great source of info and thats what lead me to this place.

I am no mechanic but I know some people. and if I can be pointed in the right direction, that would be awesome.

I already plan on changing the Transmission oil & filter and the engine oil and filter.

Also... why is the check engine light not on, on this thing?

Oh yea the driver side window wont roll down... when I hit the button I hear a click... but it does not work, the passenger side works just fine.
Has anyone had their truck act up like mine?

 

[robertoa1a]

The cap can cause a code. Its part of the evaporative emissions system. There is a sensor for the tank pressure. It needs a cap because without it you have a vacuum leak. Have some place like jiffy lube change the trans fluid and filter. It provably needs spark plugs and an air filter. The MAF sensor usually needs cleaning with a $5 can of MAF cleaner. If the exhaust is leaking near the cat then the O2 sensor is provably reading bad info. Muffler shop time.

 

[sajaylu]

My taurus looks like it uses the same cap, imma give it a try in the morning, seeing how the X will be my main source for transportation. Thanks man!

 

[fixxxer]

Most people here would tell you to stay away from Jiffy-Lube. In general, the sevice sucks, they do shoddy workmanship, often times leave the drain plug for the oil pan loose or strip it out. The Ford dealerships around this neck of the wood at least, charge the same as Jiffy-Lube, give or take a dollar or two but while Jiffy uses the cheapest oil and filters available, the dealership will at least use a motorcraft filter and a semi-quality oil. Changing the oil should be one of those things most shade-tree mechanics would prefer to do themselves but if you start adding up parts, supplies and time spend under the truck, having someone change the oil and dispose of it for you isn't such a bad deal. Check your own vacuum hoses, one or more may have come loose or come off and the most common place is the vacuum tree, right by the rear of the intake manifold, driver's side of engine. A dark pinkish color to the transmission fluid sounds pretty normal for fluid that is a couple years old and probably needs to be changed but unless it smells burnt, that color indicates that it's still in pretty good shape. Check the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator for evidence of gas in the line, that would indicate a bad FPR diaphram. That will also cause very poor fuel economy and a possible rich reading, sometimes evident by throwing O2 sensor trouble codes. Vacuum leaks usually show up as rough idle and hesitation when accelerating and a lean or rich DTC code, depending on where the leak is. A bad, disconnected or dirty/clogged IAC valve (idle air control/bypass valve) will definately cause idle problems, too high or too low of an idle depending on what position the actuator may be stuck at. I agree with the suggestion of cleaning the MAF, that will cause poor performance, hesitation at all speeds, even a possible mis-fire. IAT and ECT sensors should be checked as these will cause problems like you mentioned you are having. If the computer is getting an incorrect signal from those sensors, the computer may try to correct the condition based on bad data. Give your truck a full tune-up as best that you can, clean the MAF (use only MAF sensor cleaner or electronic parts cleaner that leaves no residue) Replace the plugs and wires making sure the plugs are gapped correctly, all filters and fluids including fuel filter. Double check the light bulb for the CEL, it should light up steady when you turn the key to the ON position, without starting the truck. If the CEL doesn't light up, you possible have a bad bulb or there is something wrong in the PCM circuit.

 

[BrianDye]

Silvery stuff is never good, the PS fluid in my 95's PS pump was like liquid chrome, come to find out, the pump was like eating itself from the inside out LOL...

Hm, maybe a SeaFoam treatment couldnt hurt maybe for the idle? It'l at least clean out your engine

 

[robertoa1a]

Im going to stand corrected on the jiffy lube. I never actually had anyone else change my fluids but I know the trans filter is a little hard for a beginner. Now that I think of it I heard a former employee say similar remarks.

 

[Lacky01]

for the transmission, I would suggest finding a local, reputable auto shop and have them change the transmission fluid and filter. I did a complete change in my manual tranny and it was a PITA!!!! I found it to be totally worth the 45 bucks to have them change it. granted, a manual is a simpler beast than an auto, and you need to consider if your flushing or just dropping the pan and changing. manual trannys dont have filters and you can even use motor oil in them if desired. if you are a backyard mechanic you can handle changing it I think.

whether or not you have it FLUSHED is a different matter though. a bit more expensive and it may or may not kill a high mileage tranny. the jury is still out on that one.

do a search for tranny flush, you'll get all sorts of arguments for and against flushing your tranny.

 

[robertoa1a]

A back yard mech can change the filter but I don't believe there is a plug. That usually means spilling fluid everywhere the first time. You can loosen the pan bolts. There is an order to the loosening and tightening process. Keep some bolts in loose then pry on one corner of the pan, yada yada yada. Wipe up the mess. Wipe out the pan real good. Look for any and all metal chunks, debris, etc... Remove the filter/gasket. Replace everything. Fill with fluid. Fluid level may rise when warm so judge accordingly, and check it several times during warm up.

The thing is with the fluid that dark, How would you get the trash out of the torque converter and coolant lines without flushing? I think there is a plug on the torque converter behind the inspection plate but now I'm speculating (NOT SPEEKING FROM EXPERIENCE).

 

[sajaylu]

The cap can cause a code. Its part of the evaporative emissions system. There is a sensor for the tank pressure. It needs a cap because without it you have a vacuum leak. Have some place like jiffy lube change the trans fluid and filter. It provably needs spark plugs and an air filter. The MAF sensor usually needs cleaning with a $5 can of MAF cleaner. If the exhaust is leaking near the cat then the O2 sensor is provably reading bad info. Muffler shop time.

Ok, I cleaned the MAF sensor with that cleaner. Autozone can be real helpful at times, and I stole that Gas cap from my Taurus.. which fits just fine. My friend told me that he could weild that hole thats there by the Cat converter... so.. we will see what happens then.

 

[sajaylu]

for the transmission, I would suggest finding a local, reputable auto shop and have them change the transmission fluid and filter. I did a complete change in my manual tranny and it was a PITA!!!! I found it to be totally worth the 45 bucks to have them change it. granted, a manual is a simpler beast than an auto, and you need to consider if your flushing or just dropping the pan and changing. manual trannys dont have filters and you can even use motor oil in them if desired. if you are a backyard mechanic you can handle changing it I think.

whether or not you have it FLUSHED is a different matter though. a bit more expensive and it may or may not kill a high mileage tranny. the jury is still out on that one.

do a search for tranny flush, you'll get all sorts of arguments for and against flushing your tranny.

My mechanic friend said he will look into it after we read the codes off the tranny, but from reading alot of the threads... the valve body might need a change and some fresh oil and filter would not hurt either. I will give an update when I do that.

 

[sajaylu]

Silvery stuff is never good, the PS fluid in my 95's PS pump was like liquid chrome, come to find out, the pump was like eating itself from the inside out LOL...

Hm, maybe a SeaFoam treatment couldnt hurt maybe for the idle? It'l at least clean out your engine

Most people here would tell you to stay away from Jiffy-Lube. In general, the sevice sucks, they do shoddy workmanship, often times leave the drain plug for the oil pan loose or strip it out. The Ford dealerships around this neck of the wood at least, charge the same as Jiffy-Lube, give or take a dollar or two but while Jiffy uses the cheapest oil and filters available, the dealership will at least use a motorcraft filter and a semi-quality oil. Changing the oil should be one of those things most shade-tree mechanics would prefer to do themselves but if you start adding up parts, supplies and time spend under the truck, having someone change the oil and dispose of it for you isn't such a bad deal. Check your own vacuum hoses, one or more may have come loose or come off and the most common place is the vacuum tree, right by the rear of the intake manifold, driver's side of engine. A dark pinkish color to the transmission fluid sounds pretty normal for fluid that is a couple years old and probably needs to be changed but unless it smells burnt, that color indicates that it's still in pretty good shape. Check the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator for evidence of gas in the line, that would indicate a bad FPR diaphram. That will also cause very poor fuel economy and a possible rich reading, sometimes evident by throwing O2 sensor trouble codes. Vacuum leaks usually show up as rough idle and hesitation when accelerating and a lean or rich DTC code, depending on where the leak is. A bad, disconnected or dirty/clogged IAC valve (idle air control/bypass valve) will definately cause idle problems, too high or too low of an idle depending on what position the actuator may be stuck at. I agree with the suggestion of cleaning the MAF, that will cause poor performance, hesitation at all speeds, even a possible mis-fire. IAT and ECT sensors should be checked as these will cause problems like you mentioned you are having. If the computer is getting an incorrect signal from those sensors, the computer may try to correct the condition based on bad data. Give your truck a full tune-up as best that you can, clean the MAF (use only MAF sensor cleaner or electronic parts cleaner that leaves no residue) Replace the plugs and wires making sure the plugs are gapped correctly, all filters and fluids including fuel filter. Double check the light bulb for the CEL, it should light up steady when you turn the key to the ON position, without starting the truck. If the CEL doesn't light up, you possible have a bad bulb or there is something wrong in the PCM circuit.

Ok, I added some Rislone Oil additive and magically my Mileage got better... like.. I drove 40 miles and gauge only move a lil bit.... now I don't trust it.. cause I seen it jump once in a while.. I am going to change the oil come SUNDAY or Friday... I have some high mileage stuff from Valvoline... I realize now I should of gotten Mobile 1 but.. for now I don't want to jump fron Natural to Synthetic...

As far as the IAF my current Mechanic took it off and cleaned it with some Carborator cleaner... and its idling a lil better but it still is jumpy like.. high one minute and almost stalling the next.

Imma get new plugs tomorrow...

Imma tackle stuff in parts till I find out whats wrong...

 

[KPT]

I did a complete change in my manual tranny and it was a PITA!!!!

Really? Other than needing a hand pump to get the new ATF in what was a PITA?

 

[Lacky01]

Really? Other than needing a hand pump to get the new ATF in what was a PITA?

pump I got from freddies (only place open at the time) was a piece of crap and spilled half of the fluid that came out, both drain and fill plugs were seized and required all of my weight and a BFH to budge.

mainly it was that frickin pump.
I've never been so displeased with a product in my life.

and ATF does not clean up quick at all! foul stuff.



*Hijack over*

 

[robertoa1a]

It not good for you either.

 

[X6StringerX]

I would gladly cover myself in ATF instead gear oil. THAT stuff is foul.



To the OP, get Motorcraft or Autolite plugs. If you don't, you'll regret it later.

 

[sajaylu]

To the OP, get Motorcraft or Autolite plugs. If you don't, you'll regret it later.

I got the cheaper stuff... its like I am spending so much money so quickly. I got them installed... and it sounds smoother... but I can still hear it going up and down... like the IAF might need replacing or more.... than one can of cleaning......

 

[Joe Dirt]

Stop buying additives and stuff- slow down a bit... My Ex gas gauge doesn't move at all for the first 75-80 miles of a tank, you can't judge performance from that. Read through the post by fixxxer, there was a lot of good info there. By trying to shortcut and stuff with additives, you'll end up spending more money than you would by just changing fluids.

Before you buy anything else and keep throwing arbitrary parts on, change the oil (Nothing wrong with Valvoline high mileage), change the trans fluid, and get your codes pulled, or read the code reading thread- with a '95 Ex and a good CEL bulb, you can read your own at home.

Oh- read the fixxxer reply again too...

 

[sajaylu]

Most people here would tell you to stay away from Jiffy-Lube. In general, the sevice sucks, they do shoddy workmanship, often times leave the drain plug for the oil pan loose or strip it out. The Ford dealerships around this neck of the wood at least, charge the same as Jiffy-Lube, give or take a dollar or two but while Jiffy uses the cheapest oil and filters available, the dealership will at least use a motorcraft filter and a semi-quality oil. Changing the oil should be one of those things most shade-tree mechanics would prefer to do themselves but if you start adding up parts, supplies and time spend under the truck, having someone change the oil and dispose of it for you isn't such a bad deal. Check your own vacuum hoses, one or more may have come loose or come off and the most common place is the vacuum tree, right by the rear of the intake manifold, driver's side of engine. A dark pinkish color to the transmission fluid sounds pretty normal for fluid that is a couple years old and probably needs to be changed but unless it smells burnt, that color indicates that it's still in pretty good shape. Check the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator for evidence of gas in the line, that would indicate a bad FPR diaphram. That will also cause very poor fuel economy and a possible rich reading, sometimes evident by throwing O2 sensor trouble codes. Vacuum leaks usually show up as rough idle and hesitation when accelerating and a lean or rich DTC code, depending on where the leak is. A bad, disconnected or dirty/clogged IAC valve (idle air control/bypass valve) will definately cause idle problems, too high or too low of an idle depending on what position the actuator may be stuck at. I agree with the suggestion of cleaning the MAF, that will cause poor performance, hesitation at all speeds, even a possible mis-fire. IAT and ECT sensors should be checked as these will cause problems like you mentioned you are having. If the computer is getting an incorrect signal from those sensors, the computer may try to correct the condition based on bad data. Give your truck a full tune-up as best that you can, clean the MAF (use only MAF sensor cleaner or electronic parts cleaner that leaves no residue) Replace the plugs and wires making sure the plugs are gapped correctly, all filters and fluids including fuel filter. Double check the light bulb for the CEL, it should light up steady when you turn the key to the ON position, without starting the truck. If the CEL doesn't light up, you possible have a bad bulb or there is something wrong in the PCM circuit.

YOU ARE A GOD! lol there is a leak, I will reply with my findings in a lil while!

 

[sajaylu]

Most people here would tell you to stay away from Jiffy-Lube. In general, the sevice sucks, they do shoddy workmanship, often times leave the drain plug for the oil pan loose or strip it out. The Ford dealerships around this neck of the wood at least, charge the same as Jiffy-Lube, give or take a dollar or two but while Jiffy uses the cheapest oil and filters available, the dealership will at least use a motorcraft filter and a semi-quality oil. Changing the oil should be one of those things most shade-tree mechanics would prefer to do themselves but if you start adding up parts, supplies and time spend under the truck, having someone change the oil and dispose of it for you isn't such a bad deal. Check your own vacuum hoses, one or more may have come loose or come off and the most common place is the vacuum tree, right by the rear of the intake manifold, driver's side of engine. A dark pinkish color to the transmission fluid sounds pretty normal for fluid that is a couple years old and probably needs to be changed but unless it smells burnt, that color indicates that it's still in pretty good shape. Check the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator for evidence of gas in the line, that would indicate a bad FPR diaphram. That will also cause very poor fuel economy and a possible rich reading, sometimes evident by throwing O2 sensor trouble codes. Vacuum leaks usually show up as rough idle and hesitation when accelerating and a lean or rich DTC code, depending on where the leak is. A bad, disconnected or dirty/clogged IAC valve (idle air control/bypass valve) will definately cause idle problems, too high or too low of an idle depending on what position the actuator may be stuck at. I agree with the suggestion of cleaning the MAF, that will cause poor performance, hesitation at all speeds, even a possible mis-fire. IAT and ECT sensors should be checked as these will cause problems like you mentioned you are having. If the computer is getting an incorrect signal from those sensors, the computer may try to correct the condition based on bad data. Give your truck a full tune-up as best that you can, clean the MAF (use only MAF sensor cleaner or electronic parts cleaner that leaves no residue) Replace the plugs and wires making sure the plugs are gapped correctly, all filters and fluids including fuel filter. Double check the light bulb for the CEL, it should light up steady when you turn the key to the ON position, without starting the truck. If the CEL doesn't light up, you possible have a bad bulb or there is something wrong in the PCM circuit.

OK! After two days of having the hardest time taking off the intake and not having the right tools and renting from autozone......

There was a cracked.... Gasket? more like a rubber ring.... Well We changed it.. and we took some picture of what we did... but its hard to put them here. I got the Idea from the Recall 00M12. So yea... we also changed the oil and the way the drain is set up or we might of done something wrong.... it fanned out. We also went ahead and changed the spark plus... and talk about Gap.... some of them were almost worn off.. like the lil tips? yea...

We also found something odd... there was oil in the intake... not a bunch.. but enough to make me go "hmmm"

The next thread I make up will be with the transmission and added a filter with Magnets... and if I can find something... I might do a Seafoam treatment... but i am waiting till the next oil change cause I read that it dirties the oil.


OH yea... since maybe a good while now.. since we worked on it. I am at half tank and 183 miles in. So yea fuel is doing good... The last update I will do is how much a full tank of gas will give me in the sense of miles.

 

[sajaylu]

Thanks for the advice JOE DIRT!