Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff

[Scotsman01]

Hi Guys,
One day I will be able to give some advice instead of looking for it.
My model is 1997 Ford Explorer UN 4l 6 cylinder

There is a locking spring in the diff that has to be moved to access the c clips that hold the axles in.
As per my heading I have employed 3 Mechanics who all said "No Problems" but could not work out how to release/ move the internal spring and withdraw the "C clips.
My difficulty is the model was not popular in OZ and its age makes it impossible to find a mechanic who knows his way around this particular Diff. I believe they have used force in some cases and are amazed that they cannot move the internal spring

As per usual knowledge solves problems, so anyone can give me some guidance of process and tips to allow the removal/movement of the spring for access to the "C" clips. I just cannot afford another mechanic with no result. I have supplied photos from the car manual.

 

[donalds]

Have all your breaks rotors ...everything .... off the vehicle
Then push the axle in and hold it while someone removes the clip
Don't remove the s spring not needed

 

[donalds]

Are you saying it is a two person removal and cannot be removed by one, that maybe why the mechanics (one) could not do it.
When the the axle is shoved in will it be compressing the S spring.

Yes 2people would be ideal but u I used a bungee one time to hold it in use a magnet to pull out the c clip

Yes the axle will push the spring out of the way

Keep track of where the spacers go EVERYTHING has to be where it was no exceptions

 

[410Fortune]

you have to remove the centering pin first before the axle shafts can be pushed in far enough to access the C clips
The centering pin is removed with one bolt..........then it falls out

 

[EB4X]

Hi Guys,

This video is on a Mustang but pretty similiar (if not same rear end) and shows disassembly procedure / techniques on how to remove clips etc: - FOCUS IN ON 6:42 PART OF VIDEO

 

[mounty71]

After the rotor is off the axle flange, I use a C-clamp over the axle flange and brake caliper mounts to pull the shaft in as far as possible. Then use a magnet to get the C-clip off in the diff.

 

[Scotsman01]

After the rotor is off the axle flange, I use a C-clamp over the axle flange and brake caliper mounts to pull the shaft in as far as possible. Then use a magnet to get the C-clip off in the diff.

Good tip, it appears the further you push the shaft in the easier to extract the C Clamp
Many Thanks
Regards

 

[1991 sploder]

1) loosen the lugs, lift the vehicle, remove the wheels
2) remove the differential cover, drain
3) remove the rear brake rotors
4) remove the pinion shaft lock bolt and remove the pinion shaft. DON'T TURN the wheels at all, as it will come apart
5) Push the axle shafts inward and slide out the U-shaped washers
6) Reinstall the pinion shaft and reinstall the lock bolt (does not have to be tightened)
7) Remove the axle shafts.


Push in then pull

My toilet goes counter clockwise when I flush what direction does yours go?

 

[Scotsman01]

1) loosen the lugs, lift the vehicle, remove the wheels
2) remove the differential cover, drain
3) remove the rear brake rotors
4) remove the pinion shaft lock bolt and remove the pinion shaft. DON'T TURN the wheels at all, as it will come apart
5) Push the axle shafts inward and slide out the U-shaped washers
6) Reinstall the pinion shaft and reinstall the lock bolt (does not have to be tightened)
7) Remove the axle shafts.


Push in then pull

My toilet goes counter clockwise when I flush what direction does yours go?

After looking at a video that EB4X listed it seems quite simple to remove the locking pin, especially if you can push it out with your finger. I will wait till tomorrow to try again
Re the toilet;
I have visited US (Washington State) many times over the years as a servicemen and having 3 siblings who settled there have more relatives there than here in OZZIE.
Water is a spare resource here so I was amazed at how full you fill your toilets there, we barely fill the S bend, but Yes our toilet water goes clockwise at the other end of the world.
Thanks for the light hearted conversation and the advise

This video is on a Mustang but pretty similiar (if not same rear end) and shows disassembly procedure / techniques on how to remove clips etc: - FOCUS IN ON 6:42 PART OF VIDEO

Thank you so much for locating that video, I subscribe to Chris Fix but couldn't locate one relating to my Diff. I do notice that Chris says not to use the old locking bolt but use a new one. Unfortunately this model ford was not popular here and such spares are really hard to get. Will the old one be OK with thread locker on it?

 

[Scotsman01]

After the rotor is off the axle flange, I use a C-clamp over the axle flange and brake caliper mounts to pull the shaft in as far as possible. Then use a magnet to get the C-clip off in the diff.

.
The clamp idea is Great. Locating a Hammer Slide puller for the Bearing & oil seal is starting to be a problem any ideas.
Thanks Again

 

[1991 sploder]

After looking at a video that EB4X listed it seems quite simple to remove the locking pin, especially if you can push it out with your finger. I will wait till tomorrow to try again
Re the toilet;
I have visited US (Washington State) many times over the years as a servicemen and having 3 siblings who settled there have more relatives there than here in OZZIE.
Water is a spare resource here so I was amazed at how full you fill your toilets there, we barely fill the S bend, but Yes our toilet water goes clockwise at the other end of the world.
Thanks for the light hearted conversation and the advise

Thank you so much for locating that video, I subscribe to Chris Fix but couldn't locate one relating to my Diff. I do notice that Chris says not to use the old locking bolt but use a new one. Unfortunately this model ford was not popular here and such spares are really hard to get. Will the old one be OK with thread locker on it?

O hell yes use the old bolts it's what you got were just saying 2b 100% you gotta replace all hardware. Just don't break it when u put it in my guess many people have done this with the old bolt... It gets ridiculous ordering every new bolt seriously I have measured new vs old no different...1 thing to look out for is pores/cracking/ signs of stretching.... I would say it's double torqued on a torque to yield tho don't go again...on the threads.. Use a magnifying glass....even 1 tiny hole would b enough damage the bolt already stretched and is no good.... If I was in Australia building a rear end that's what I would do. Only on a ford can this b done ..gm...ect uses substandard parts.

Also those rear ends grow on trees out here we just throw on a new 1.
Well anyhow no problem I really wanted to know about the toilet..seriously.. Hmm you guys barely fill the s bend? Clockwise haha nice....

 

[1991 sploder]

if that's a haynes or chiltons manual it will say ***this bolt needs to b replaced... I watch Chris fix too am a fan but I disagree with a lot he does... A lot of those videos I'm like yea u did that but it goes against common sense like yea u flush the trans and made a video showing red fluid doesn't mean you should ever do it ....his ways could cause alot of damage even goes against other youtube mechanics suggestions. Alot of these car owners here just do break down maintanance.

 

[Scotsman01]

Hey Everyone,
I am a 75 Yo ScotsAustralian living in Qld, I faced full Lockdown in August and now we don't even have to wear masks.
As an interested person I have noticed how Covid-19 has become a political football in USA and now are at a historic full lockdown in your country. Please, Please, Covid-19 is not political it attacks all ages, mine especially, and here we have proved:
1. Full lockdown necessary as an initial attack;
2. Compulsory mask wearing when out side and limiting groups
3. Contact tracing and tracing given the highest level support. We even have an APP that records all contacts via phone. Records only accessed with personal approval by a positive case.
4. Groups now allowed with designated spacing (1.5m) and limited numbers, shopping normal and no masks. Any outbreaks are identified to locality and revert system to item 3

I appreciate that the population size is a problem, but Covid-19 loves large group numbers and you have to ignore the political infighting and take action yourself
To all members
Please take care of yourself and yours, I hope for the best for your country and know you will survive.

 

[EB4X]

Explorer owners are immune to Covid....our immune systems / bodies are strong from always restoring / working on our second gens !

 

[Scotsman01]

They do say that a good laugh will cure all, unfortunately they didn't consider Covid-19

Any Ideas as to why the centre pin will not drop out

 

[1991 sploder]

Any Ideas as to why the centre pin will not drop

Can u get a pliers on it?

 

[Scotsman01]

Can u get a pliers on it?

Difficult with the spring place and from what I gather, best to leave it there. Is it possible that the spring has been pushed back to the extent that it is binding the pin??

 

[Scotsman01]

This video is on a Mustang but pretty similiar (if not same rear end) and shows disassembly procedure / techniques on how to remove clips etc: - FOCUS IN ON 6:42 PART OF VIDEO

Thank you for this, it is a big help

 

[1991 sploder]

Have done all this, waiting solution to stick pin

Sometimes... Alot of times it's the pin itself is actually stuck...like really really stuck. Do you have a broken axle?

 

[Scotsman01]

Sometimes... Alot of times it's the pin itself is actually stuck...like really really stuck. Do you have a broken axle?

Not to my knowledge and this whole saga started with a liking oil seal !