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thurn the key and all I hear is click click click

red96camaro

Elite Explorer<br>ECX Member
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November 24, 2001
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City, State
KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 4.0 (SOLD)
Help Me, turn the key and all I hear is click click click

It's not starting. everything gets power. I highly doubt there is any reason for my battery to be drain. What's going on here?

I like riding my motorcycle but not in the rain.:confused:
 



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have you tried jumping it? if not that doesn't do it, there could be multiple problems. the starter could be bad, the silenoid on the fender wall could be bad, or the alternator could be bad meaning that the battery isn't getting recharged. also check to make sure you battery terminals are clean and that there is good contact. and if applicable the battery has enough water(distilled) in it.
 






If you jump start it, and it runs then you need a new battery and probably an alternator.
 






Thanks guys, I'll wait till tomarrow to check it out. I hate my truck lately. Everything is breaking. Maybe I'll throw some "Fix Or Repair Daily" graphics by my ford oval on the back. :rolleyes:
 






So the motor isn't turning over at all? If it isn't, then the other guys are right and it's something electrical/ignition. If the motor is turning over, then it's either fuel related or the IAC.
 






OK, my truck sucks. I have around 50k on this thing and have had way too many problems for that milage. It jumped and ran. I don't see how my battery could have been drained so who knows. Maybe my alternator is shot or getting close to shot. Then after running check engine light comes on. I read the code and there is a misfire in cyl 4! wtf! I just changed all my plugs and wires less then 10k ago! and I can't see how these two things can be related must just be a conincidence in timming and my truck breaking often. :D
 






Once you get your truck running after the jump, take off the + side of the battery and if your truck keeps running then you know its your battery and if it shuts off then the problem is your alternator.
 






ok, the same exact thing happened to me. i did everything everyone said, replaced battery, solenoid, relay, the alternator went in the meantime, cleaned all terminals. it turned out to be the neutral safety switch. the plug on it was loose. first see if you can start it by putting the key in the auxillary position. then open the hood and find the solenoid on the firewall. place a screwdriver between the two bolt posts and see if it jumps. if it starts right up then that prob your problem. i had to do this for a week or so until we found out what was causing it. good luck
 






Red96, it's likely your battery. Especially if it's the original one. Advance auto I beleive will test it for free.

And the misfiire thing may be the intake manifold gaskets. There is a recall on them for the SOHC.
 






thanks guys, when was that recall?
 












At this point if I got a decent offer I would but I would never get back the time and money I have put into it. :rolleyes:
 






Originally posted by red96camaro
At this point if I got a decent offer I would but I would never get back the time and money I have put into it. :rolleyes:

Dude don't go selling your truck over a dead battery. If you search for TSB's on your model year you will find the on the intake manifold gaskets. It's a common problem.
 






It;s more like i constantly go through plugs and wires, it's like every 5k I have misfires, and my truck runs hurrendously slow, and I don't feel like listing all the repairs on it, but there have been plenty.
 












Sure sounds like battery cables to me. Specially if your lights still work. :)
 






red,
my ford trucks have been reliable. It's that damn contour my wife has that in my opinion is not very durable and a B!tch to work on. Jeeps are the ones with the notorious electrical problems but it sounds like you have had a sorry ass mechanic working on your car fixing anything and everything but the problem. I would like to know if you have an amp in your car? I have seen guys add an amp directly to the battery and then ***** and moan because they had all kinds of electrical problems but damn could they could bump their system with the ignition off. If everything is stock you can check for a voltage leak by seeing if you have any current running out of the battery with the ignition off. If so it may be a voltage regulator problem. If the car doesn't start when hot then it is the voltage regulator on the starter which you can easily just replace as a unit. If the voltage in your system is low for any reason at any time it would explain why your car is missing. A car will run off the battery without the alternator working for a certain amount of time. I believe this is what is called the "reserve capacity" but eventually the car will become sluggish and die because their just isn't enough juice in the system. I am sure you did not have to change any plug wires or spark plugs every 5K because they were bad. You just didn't rule those things out and move on with the diagnosis. It sounds to me like you could use a computer diagnosis and then just fix the real problem. You can buy the code readers. Depending on the year of your truck, they go for $25 or $300 with the newer ones being much more expensive. When in doubt, a trip to Ford might be a good idea just to tell you what's wrong then replace the faulty components yourself or have it done someplace cheaper. This may be a simple as a loose magnetic sensor or as expensive as a coil pack. rc
 






I'm the sorry ass mechanic, lol

No, no amp, and seriosuly I don't give a $%^& about having to jump my truck that night, because it works now and replacing the battery is expected maintenace, not a repair, it's tjhe other stuff that is getting to me.
 






hence, my post above

It;s more like i constantly go through plugs and wires, it's like every 5k I have misfires, and my truck runs hurrendously slow, and I don't feel like listing all the repairs on it, but there have been plenty.
 



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