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Ticking going up hill on freeway

if that works what do i fix? and she probably needs a new coil pack anyways. any good priced suggestions? like 100 and below

There really is no fix for this problem. These engines are on the edge of a compression ratio that requires premium fuel. Just run it, or realize that all that "ticking" you hear under load is eating your bearings and pistons for lunch.

You might try replacing the knock sensor, which in turn adjusts the ignition timing, cleaning the intake system (as suggested above) or running premium fuel.

Here is a breif article detailing what is happening inside your engine:

Detonation - Causes and Effects
This article was taken from a series of postings on the Supra Club of New Zealand mailing list. The contributors were Stuart Woolford and Tony Bryant. The article was edited together by Cully Paterson.
Knock, detonation, pinging, pre-ignition, etc are basically two things:

1 - Compression ignition, usually from over-advance of ignition and/or excessive compression (e.g. having added a turbo to an NA engine without lowering the compression) - this only happens after ignition, and is where the last of the combustible mix ignites from over-pressure during the last of the burn, giving a sudden detonation. A little is OK, and keeps the cylinder clean ;) but causes larger stresses in an engine, this is what knock sensors monitor, as the detonation produces quite specific, and audible, noises.

2 - Pre-ignition/thermal ignition, this is often caused by too 'hot' spark plugs or hot-spots in the carbon crud that builds up in cylinders. It causes the combustible mix to start burning from a point/cause other than the spark plug ignition spark. This can be VERY bad if it happens very early in the compression stroke, where it can destroy an engine in one cycle! This is, fortunately, less common, however it can be caused by runaway compression ignition. This causes additional heat to build up and the can cause pre-ignition to start, and to then happen progressively earlier in the cycle (until BOOM!).

The causes of knock can be:

* Excessive compression - increases pressure / temperature
* Not enough octane rating - fuel more likely to explode
* Wrong mixture - excessive heating / lowering effective octane
* Ignition timing - too much advance increases peak cylinder pressures a LOT
* Poor cooling - leading to high cylinder temps and pre-ignition
* Dirty cylinders - more candidate points for pre-ignition
* ECU/sensor fault - lots of options
and no doubt more.

The most 'efficient' place for an engine to run if often just on the edge of knock (from compression ignition) - so many modern ECUs use a knock sensor to hold the engine just on the edge of knock, but preventing damage due to excessive knock.


'Lean knock' is sometimes not actually a lean mixture (in fact, very lean mixtures will misfire, not knock), but rather an insufficiently rich mixture, as rich mixtures will delay the burn and burn cooler, thus reducing the chances of knock. This is very typical of the behaviour of turbo engines under boost, where they are deliberately run very rich to prevent the onset of knock. This explains why turbo engines in perfect condition can often be seen producing black smoke under power. On the other hand, get the mixture too rich, and the temperatures start coming back up rapidly...
  • Is knocking the same as pinging and detonation?
Yes, It all refers to the same phenomenon, which is the simultaneous burning of all/most of the fuel/air mix, due to the auto-ignition temperature of the unburnt mixture being exceeded.

We have a few possible heat sources.

1) Normal ignition. The normally controlled burning process obviously adds heat to the whole mixture.

2) The compression itself. In the same way a turbo heats its compressed air, the piston will heat the mixture at it compresses it.

3) Pre-ignition. Where a hot spot initiates ignition in addition to the spark plug, thus burning the mixture faster than usual.

When knock happens, its usually a combination of factors e.g. over-advanced timing combines the heating effects of 1 & 2, thus hitting the auto-ignition temperature, and wammo! the whole mixture goes up simultaneously, resulting in a "step" pressure rise, and general destruction eventually ensues.
 



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Is there any type of "carbon remover" or additive that can be added to the fuel to safely remove deposits from the valves and combustion chamber?

Has anyone used it to cure mild pinging? I don't really want to feed the truck 94 on a regular basis...will add up after a while!

Thanks
 






usually any type of fuel system cleaner should do the trick look for something that says carbon remover.
 






Don't rule out a bad vacuum modulator either.

The addition of tranny fluid coming up the line can cause the pinging also.
 






I like Lucas, fuel system cleaner, Amsoil fuel system cleaner, Techron fuel system cleaner, or Seafoam.

You might also want to try adding a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil and fuel for a couple of weeks (one oil change). It does a good job of cleaning up inside an engine. Don't pour in an entire bottle...
 






Fastest test -- use premium gas -- if it gets better or goes away, you've found the basis for the problem. Eliminating it is more bother. I just ran premium in mine. With 33s, I had to!

Well...I've run 2 tanks of 94 octane through as well as a bottle of Fuel System cleaner and I still hear the ticking.

Is it possilbe that the plugs/wires are so old that putting in 94 octane will not reduce pinging?
Is there any other ways to combat pinging short of changing the plugs? (since my plugs are ceased in the head and I don't want to break them off).
 






You'll probably have to start changing parts. If the plugs strip out, you'll have to helicoil them. I'd try to tighten them a tad before loosening. Sometimes helps, but with the Ford aluminum heads, you may have problems.

Also check the knock sensor.
 






Drive it harder, babying these engine's lets carbon build up and causes pinging, I just drove my buddy's 91 4.0 ranger he just bought from a woman who drove it easy and before that the first owner was an old guy who obviously took it easy. I was pinging pretty good when you got on it, after 1 run up to 4K the pinging was noticeably less.
You'll probably have to start changing parts. If the plugs strip out, you'll have to helicoil them. I'd try to tighten them a tad before loosening. Sometimes helps, but with the Ford aluminum heads, you may have problems.

Also check the knock sensor.
The 4.0s (at least the OHVs) don't have aluminum heads.
 






Drive it harder, babying these engine's lets carbon build up and causes pinging, I just drove my buddy's 91 4.0 ranger he just bought from a woman who drove it easy and before that the first owner was an old guy who obviously took it easy. I was pinging pretty good when you got on it, after 1 run up to 4K the pinging was noticeably less.

The 4.0s (at least the OHVs) don't have aluminum heads.

Yup, on the first one, with one caveat, the pinging is still there, you just can't hear or notice it when the rpms are up, but running these engines hard is good for them -- cleans them out. On the other hand, the rpms make more hp, so the lugging goes away.

A brain fart on the second. I know better... ;)
 






Thanks guys...ya...Ideally I like to drive my truck hard...but I've been "cautious" lately with it being cold and turning the engine up to 4K. I don't want a belt to snap or a plug to blow out on me again!

But that couuld very well be the possiblity that carbon has built up over the past few months with me babying her and causing the pinging. Perhaps in the spring I'll run a bottle of carbon remover through the fuel again and just drive the piss out of 'er for a tankfull to see what crud I can loosen up.

I might also attempt to change out the plugs in the spring if I can get to the passenger side ones okay (will need lots of PB i'm sure).
 






Could this possibly be the timing chain tensioner? Mine does the same thing if I try to accelerate going uphill, but it also does it when I accelerate like I am trying to get my passing gear to kick in. If I get up to speed gradually it isn't as bad, but I can still hear it a little nonetheless.
 






Thanks guys...ya...Ideally I like to drive my truck hard...but I've been "cautious" lately with it being cold and turning the engine up to 4K. I don't want a belt to snap or a plug to blow out on me again!

But that couuld very well be the possiblity that carbon has built up over the past few months with me babying her and causing the pinging. Perhaps in the spring I'll run a bottle of carbon remover through the fuel again and just drive the piss out of 'er for a tankfull to see what crud I can loosen up.

I might also attempt to change out the plugs in the spring if I can get to the passenger side ones okay (will need lots of PB i'm sure).

Get at the passenger side plugs, especially the rear one, through the fender well. Much easier.
 






Could this possibly be the timing chain tensioner? Mine does the same thing if I try to accelerate going uphill, but it also does it when I accelerate like I am trying to get my passing gear to kick in. If I get up to speed gradually it isn't as bad, but I can still hear it a little nonetheless.

You are describing classic fuel detonation. The heavier you load the engine, the more it will knock. Gradual acceleration won't knock as bad.

I'm not sure that a timing chain tensioner will help. Your actual problem is that the spark is too much (or too quickly) advancing for the fuel octane that you are running. In the old days, we could cure this by changing the springs and weights in the distributor, and/or altering the timing. On our newer computer-controlled vehicles, we are mostly at the mercy of the PCM to make these adjustments for us.

Adding wear, carbon build-up, worn plugs, wires, oil fouling, and weak coils, etc., all compound the problem. Even more so, adding larger tires, which lowers the RPM range makes it worse.

As I said above, I just ran higher octane in mine. I tried almost every other cure with no real success. Ford built and timed these engines right at the limit of spark detonation, and in a perfect world, they will be fine, but once the stuff I just listed starts adding up, that perfect world is gone.

Oh, and I've found that plugs other than the factory-style Motocraft double platinum make things worse instead of better, so if you are trying to run Bosh plugs, change them for the factory style. They DO have to be double platinum, however, due to the lost-spark system on the Fords.
 






I put in premium last week still running the premium and i can usually get it to ping a bit when im coming home but it wont do it with the premium. So my real test will be the next time i hit the summit. But so far so good.
 












Seriously, has anyone ever fixed their pinging/knocking/pre-ignition/whatever-else-it's-called with anything besides using premium fuel??

This seems more like a band-aid than a fix and isn't a true solution, IMO. I'm suffering from this too, my '94 started it around 180k (over 200k now), but I've only owned it since it had 135k on it and haven't ever replaced the plugs, wires, or coil pack, hah. I wouldn't doubt it's all still factory, lol.
 






Yes, I fixed my ping today. Just like the OP, I was getting serious ping going uphill, freeway onramps and accelerating on the freeway. I put in 91 octane and it cured it for a month or so. I just changed my plugs today and the old ones were gapped at .065! Gapped the new ones at .054 and took it for a spin. Absolutely quiet now! I'm still running old wires right now. Will replace next week. I wanted to narrow it down one by one. The plugs were it. Using Autolite AP105 plugs.
 






Yes, I fixed my ping today. Just like the OP, I was getting serious ping going uphill, freeway onramps and accelerating on the freeway. I put in 91 octane and it cured it for a month or so. I just changed my plugs today and the old ones were gapped at .065! Gapped the new ones at .054 and took it for a spin. Absolutely quiet now! I'm still running old wires right now. Will replace next week. I wanted to narrow it down one by one. The plugs were it. Using Autolite AP105 plugs.

I replaced my plugs except for the 2 PITA ones, and I still have the same problem. My old plugs which I beleive were original, and I have 140,000 now. were gaped so big that I couldn't even use my gapping tool to see what they were. I guess I need to replace the 2 others that I couldn't get and see if that works, I also have new wires on execpt the 2. I put in Motorcraft plugs, but if your problem was totally fixed with the Autolite AP105 gapped at .054 I might just do them all again. Let me know if it is still good please! So now that I think about it I have 4 plugs brand new with new wires gapped at .054 and 2 original plugs gapped HUGE with original wires; I am going to go out on a limb here, but I feel I will get a huge improvement. Going to do it Sunday and will let ya'll know.
 



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Ok, after a few days driving the car, the ping is still there but not as bad. Going to change the wires, seafoam the tank and go from there.
 






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