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Tie-rod Help

huskyfan23

Rah no Hans Bwix
Joined
November 21, 2002
Messages
6,707
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City, State
WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT 4x4
I'm trying to bolt my tie-rod ends to the steering knuckle. I screw the nut on by hand as tight as I can get it, then take a ratchet and start tightening. The stud or whatever the nut threads onto just spins. How do I fix this?
 



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ok are u talkin about the tire rod end goin onto the spindle, if it s new it shouldn t be spinning unless u have a lock-nut instead cotter pin style, but the best way would be to use an impact gun or u could always try using a rough sandpaper on the tire rod end so it grips a lil more on the spindle and try pushing down on the tire rod end at the same time... good luck...
 






Same thing happened to me when trying to re-install my old tie rods. The Castle nut would only go on so far and then just spin the stud. :banghead: I ended up just getting new ones and they went on perfectly with Zero problems.
 






So it looks like I'm gonna be getting new outer tierods too! Any specific brand / design to look for?
 






Moog is very good, but my tie rods are currently Perfect circle (Thats all my auto place had).
 






All the places around here have are the straight tie-rod ends. I remember reading since I'm 4wd that I need ones with a bend in them?
 






My '93 tie rod ends are straight... Just take a peek at your old ones..
 






Mine were also straight. Good to see. Put the new ones in, I think I was off a turn on each side, is that alright? Gonna get the hub assembly and wheels back on this puppy after work tonight. I decided to have Les Schwab do the radius arm bushing replacement. Got quoted $185.. real good IMO. Thanks for the help!
 






You can only get a ballpark estimate when replacing the tie rods as such plan on getting an alignment to prevent any wierd tire wear...I would get it after the RA bushings are replaced (the sooner the better).
 






RA bushing replacement happening Saturday. Hopefully it's around that price they quoted me. I'll try and get them to grind out the rivets also.
 






$192 total, bushings + install & alignment. I was expecting to pay at least $400. I'm very happy today. My ABS light did come on as I was dropping it off, are my sensors probably toast? I took a nut driver and pounded the back of it with a hammer to get the sensors out the other day. Do I need these? They're just for anti-lock right?
 






What are you doing with the old tierod ends, if the only thing wrong with them is you were having a hard time tighten them up, I would be interested in buying them to use as trial spares I am willing to pay $25 shipped if you are interested send me a PM and we can work out payment.
 






Their probably toast if you had to beat them in. The sensor(s) are only for anti lock and basically tell the abs computer the wheels RPM.. I tried to get my sensor out once, but it didn't budge and I didn't force it.. Those sensors are damn expensive..($40+ each).
 






I guess I'll have to live without ABS! I'll see how it goes this week and make a decision. When (if) it ever rains is when I'll make my final decision.
 












Yes.. after I had removed them ;)
 






I think I know what the problem is. I've done some searching and believe my problem is the exciter ring. Before I slapped the rotors on I greased all around there.
 






oops! That's not good. So you greased the spoke part of the ring?. If so then this grease is not contained and will leak onto the rotors and pads causing braking issues.. Regular grease is also bad for the rubber caliper seals as it will eventually swell the rubber and cause it to fail.

I don't beliee the grease will affect the ABS sensor..The sensor is a metal sensor and is looking to pickup the hills and valleys of the spokes on the ring.
 






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