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Time for a few upgrades

OK-the easy first

The grey clip for the cruise control cable comes off,
then the throttle cable will just snap off.

Wow, the leak-
Have you tried tightening the bolts? how much coolant did you loose?

You might not believe this, but doing the cover gasket will probably take you about an afternoon the next time. All the bolts should come right out just fine, and you know the tricks-tools needed.
I know you didn't want to hear that.
 



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OK-the easy first

The grey clip for the cruise control cable comes off,
then the throttle cable will just snap off.

So, when you say "snap", I'm afraid to break it. There's a black nub sticking through the front of it, and nothing was popping off easy when I pried on it.

Wow, the leak-
Have you tried tightening the bolts? how much coolant did you loose?

You might not believe this, but doing the cover gasket will probably take you about an afternoon the next time. All the bolts should come right out just fine, and you know the tricks-tools needed.
I know you didn't want to hear that.

I'm gonna try to get to the bolts, but it seems like a lost cause without digging in. At least have to remove the fan, but I "rented" the tool last time 'cause the stinking one they sell for it doesn't fit.

"Me" and "an afternoon" usually don't go together, if ya haven't figured that out yet. ;) It's a chunk of work. Gotta remove the shroud, fan, and radiator, in order to get to the harmonic balancer and get it off. Removing that thing with a strap wrench was more than a b*tch. It was at least two. Now, you're right - the bolts will come out easy this time ..... unless I wait and they get all corroded again. I'd rather that the next time I do this, the whole engine comes out, so, if there ain't coolant in the oil, then I'll probably let it go. It's a slow leak.

On the bright side, the wife plans to take the kids trick-or-treating at the local churches, giving me the whole night to myself! :thumbsup:
 






Can't find an EVR (EGR Vacuum Regulator) at fastparts, and wanted to see how much it is. Aftermarket one is only $20 locally. I have an almost brand new one, but one of the mounting tabs is snapped off. Might use it anyway - it's not like it'll go anywhere. Figured while I'm back there.

OK, must be quittin' time. I'm babbling.
 












Joe-
I Think-almost certain the fitting on the manifold is an
-AN size-
5/8" is -AN10
3/4" is -AN12
1" is -AN 16

-1an size for every 16th inch is how you convert.

Well, I don't quite understand the AN stuff, but best I can tell this is a 5/8". I tried a brass compression cap from Home Depot, but that doesn't quite work. I knew I should have taken the whole manifold in before I bolted it on. I tried the independent parts store/machine shop, but of course, they were closed. :rolleyes: I'll have to try them again in the morning, as it's not looking like I'm going to find what I need at HD.

Tonight, amid trick-or-treaters, I will attempt to get a wrench on the front cover bolts, and then continue with the intake. Should be about ready to drop that on, after I make a go at those front cover bolts.
 












Cool, thanks! Hopefully the machine shop has something like that.
 






OK, finally, the home stretch. Just gotta try to find the cap for the EGR bung, and 2 screws for the 5.0 plate. Consequently, after breaking the plate into 5 pieces, the 2 screws came out with 2 fingers. :rolleyes:

Some almost done photos:
IMG_4240.jpg

IMG_4240.jpg


Spacer went in fairly easily. I did get 2 different length LONG bolts for the intake (came with the spacer kit). Seemed to make sense to me that the LONGER of the long should go on the front and back, since the two middle bolt holes looked a bit shorter. Not the case, after measuring, and the shorter bolt would have worked better at the firewall, but I was able to use the long anyway, and the 2 shorter in the middle.

I did not have any issue at all with the EVR cramming in under the firewall, so I did not have to make any adjustments there. The later models must be slightly different with the external EGR. I also didn't have to remove the large connector bolted to the firewall, but it might have made is slightly easier.

Tomorrow morning it's off to the parts store, finish the remaining items, torque the exhaust manifold bolts, do the compression test, and fire it up!
 












3 auto parts stores, 1 machine shop, agri-supply, and finally an independent hardware store. It was the last place that had both a cap that would work (5/8" brass flared plumbing cap), and the 2 screws for the top plate. With that hour + escapade out of the way, I went to work. All done, seems to be running great! More later. Gotta go to a hockey game. Yay!
 






So, I still hear some "ticking", but not when cold at idle, like normal. Lifters? Looking at my plugs that have not been in there too long, there's a decent amount of soot on some cylinders. Reading I did indicates this could be the valves and not necessarily the piston rings. I'm knew to all this, so I keep hoping that this won't eventually result in pulling the engine. Heads would be "easier" since I would probably pull them, and have them rebuilt by a shop, and bolt them back up.
 












You might have a bit of carbon soot Joe-

Have you ever seafoamed it?

I have. Once. I am going to put some fuel additive I've got in there too. Should clean up the injectors and plugs some. I think I'll foam it again, so I can check for leaks. That'll tell me if there are any other exaust leaks while it's cleaning. ;) The compression test will tell a lot ... if I ever get to it. After sitting there for so much long than I wanted, I just wanted it running again. I need to do it though.

I have to say, whether it was the spacer, or what, but the throttle response seems much improved, based on a short test drive behind some slow people. ;)
 












i've been waiting for someone to just install spacers before everything else (TM's, exhaust..) since that's my only option right now.. looking forward on seeing the benefits of the spacer on your ride..

do you guys think the spacer can be installed within 7 hours with just hand tools? the only power tools i have right now is an angle grinder and a drill.. i probably need more data (yes, ive read mountaineergreen's thread countless times..) on how the install goes like the egr tube, modification of the coil pack bracket and the hoses that you have to disconnect to get the upper intake off..
 






Well, I have to give my wife a little credit for helping, but that was mostly holding a light. I'll snap a few other "after" photos. I didn't get any during the process 'cause I figured Mountaingreen already took care of everything that needed a photo.

I did put everything together from the elbow to the EGR to the intake BEFORE putting it in the vehicle. I wouldn't have thought to do that if Mountaingreen hadn't mentioned it, but it made it a LOT easier to assemble out of the truck. Since it's so light, I was able to handle it myself.

I did use a dab of RTV in 3 spots to glue the gaskets to each side of the spacer. Then I took the two long bolts and put them in at the front and rear locations, and TAPED them with masking tape so that they did not fall through all the way and get caught up. I also taped the spacer to the intake with a couple pieces of masking tape on the side. I made sure I put the tape in a place that I could easily remove it when I got everything in place.

That preparation allowed me to handle the whole intake and spacer alone. Placed it on top of the lower, far enough forward to allow me to connect the EGR lines and brake and EGR vacuum lines. Took a little bit to figure out the best place to put the rear EGR hose since the intake is now an inch higher, and you have to get that little stubby hose around the fuel rail.

Once I got all of the rear hoses attached, I CAREFULLY slid the whole intake back, lifting up on it so as not to catch the gasket on anything. Once it was completely flat on the lower it was just a matter of fine tuning until I got the bolts in. Like I said, my spacer kit came with 6 new bolts, 3 different lengths. I'm not sure why they did not have 4 of the same length - they could have, but I decided that I'd rather have the longer bolts at the front and back. That worked, but the slightly shorter bolt would have fit in the rear a little easier, but at that point I would have had to take everything out again, so instead I just used an open end wrench to tighten the rear bolt since it was right against the firewall.

I also did not remove the bracket and wiring harness. Could have, but didn't need to. Slid everything back under it, and it worked out fine. Access would have been easier, but I'm not sure it would have helped anyway, since that bolt head was touching the firewall anyway. And I'm not sure the issue with the EGR Vacuum Regulator. I didn't have to do any mods - it does not even come close to the firewall. Probably a difference between the internal and external EGR setup.

One issue that I could not solve, and hope it does not bite me later: The wire going to the EGR sensor is VERY tight. There's no way to mount the sensor to release the stress on the wire, and no way that I could find to lengthen the wiring harness. This is another internal EGR vs. external difference with the spacer, since the external EGR setups do not have the sensor on the EGR.

As I mentioned, my test drive felt good. Truck ran fine, no tick-tick-tick at idle (new exhaust manifold), and throttle response felt really good to me. Will get a better idea tomorrow on the ride to work. Might have to tighten up the exhaust flange a bit, but it did not seem to be leaking any.
 












I wish I would have seen this earlier.

Anyhow for future reference AN fittings are the same as JIC (sometimes referred to as tube)

Well, I asked all of the auto parts stores for an AN cap, and they all looked at me funner. A 5/8" brass flare plumbing cap worked. But most places only had 1/2" and 3/4", but finally found the 5/8" flare (gotta me the flare) at an Ace Hardware.
 






...
Anyhow for future reference AN fittings are the same as JIC (sometimes referred to as tube)

Thanks Dan, I suspected that with hunting for fittings recently.
 



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Well, I asked all of the auto parts stores for an AN cap, and they all looked at me funner. A 5/8" brass flare plumbing cap worked. But most places only had 1/2" and 3/4", but finally found the 5/8" flare (gotta me the flare) at an Ace Hardware.

Ace is the best place for that. Now if it's a Mon-Fri a place that sells hydraulic hose assemblies is a better place. If you end up needing a steel cap I can get one from work.
 






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