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Time to ask the experts...

Its the Cardan Joint according to Ford. The Cardan needs to be rebuilt. The whole driveshaft assembly is no longer available brand new from Ford (part F57Z4602DC). So they will send it out to a shop for rebuilding and balancing...should be fixed.

I don't know why they didn't spot this in the first place??? The entire shaft was down, and all new U-joints installed...how is it possible not to see the play in the cardan joint?

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because they only saw the problem with the back of the T case likely and figured, FOUND IT!!

Guess what most likely chewed upi your T case? bad driveshaft
Your front end is sagging because your tosion bars are shot.
re-alingment with shims is just a band aid.

JoeDirt said:
I also found out that ford uses a thin-walled grease gun that can fit into tight clearance fitting locations (like the fitting on the U-joint just rear of the T-case)...anybody know where I can find one of these thin-walled attachments?

You mean a needle fitting for a grease gun? You can buy those at any decent auto parts store, or automotive section of a place like Wal-Mart.

Hmm, so I should ask them to look at the torsion bars? I noticed the protective black paint has spalled and is rusting here and there, but the end connections do not appear to be bad.

Thanks for the info guys...I'll update you when I get me X back.

The dealer is eating the labour costs to put everything back. They are also giving me a rental free of charge for the next 2-3 days. They are sending the driveshaft to MSHAR drivetrain in Harrisburg...apparently they did some work for Edelbrock, so they have a clue. I only have to pay for new parts on the cardan joint.


Not very, 500 mi is not much.
check your warranty on it.

toshion bars are springs, they dont rust they wear out, jsut like a leaf or a coil spring.
I beleive some sports came with really wimpy ones, you can upgrade to B rated bars or something along those lines, try a search.
You can also adjust the ride height of the front end, even with sagging bars, by twisting them, get the camber back to stock without shims....

410Fortune said:
You can also adjust the ride height of the front end, even with sagging bars, by twisting them, get the camber back to stock without shims....

I was thinking about asking the dealer how big a shim they installed when they did the allignment. I read on another thread that you used 2.25 degree shims...either way, I am a purist and would prefer they remove the shims and replace the torsion bars and reallign accordingly...Im a sucker for spending $, but I like to see things done the right way.

Here are some things I was thinking about getting done while the shop has my truck (while they rebuild the drive shaft):

-torsion bars/reallignment
-check/ replace the C/V joints in the front
-possibly add a leaf to the rear since the ass-end appears lower due to sag

Can anybody make any additional suggestions for things to check/replace for a stock X 4x4 w/ 165,000 miles?

So far I have replaced:
-upper/lower ball joints
-transfer case and rear drive shaft
-idler and tensioner pulley
-using ceramic disc break pads up front (highly recommended)
-idle air control valve (x2)
-shocks (monroe sensatrac - soon to be rep. w/ either rancho or edelbrock)
-gas cap
-steering wheel (warranty, leather padding untwisted)
-wheels: wilderness A/T; bridgestone dueler A/T; b f goodrich ta ko A/T
-sparks and wires

Also...several rounds of oil, oil filters, air filters, gas filters, tranny flushes and coolant exchanges...also a power stearing flush (still dirty) and all fresh ATF in the front diff and t-case...fresh gear fluid in rear diff. :eek:

I have a TTB suspension, it is a completely different front end. It uses beams and coil springs witha steering box.
You have a A arm tostion bar suspension with rack and pinion steering.
It does not matter what shims they used, as long as it brough the camber back into check.

New torsion bars are the way to go for the front, HOWEVER dont replace them with another set of the waeaker bars, get the heavier duty ones ( I think you have A and you want B, but you should search on this)

Add a leafs to raise the rear back up = band aid. Add a leafs ride like crap.
new leaf springs would be the best way to fix it, if you have the mono leafs (one leaf) an easy upgrae is to swapo them out for 4 door leaf springs (again search)

good luck!

Also having the dealer perform these items = LOTS MORE $$$$ then you should be spending. There are alot of honest shops out there that will do the same or better work for much much less $$$$$$

good luck!

Thanks 410...I think I'll be taking my truck to Martin's garage (Napa certified center) nearby for future work that you mentioned. I think I've had my last straw with dealers...they only do quick and cheap repairs and charge you a fortune...although the T-case job wasn't too bad.

I pick up my truck today or tomorrow...I'll make a final post and then I will let this one go...thanks for everyones help

Or you could even attempt this stuff yourself!
keep us posted.

You are welcome

FYI they are "stealerships"

They are not all the same, some are actually the best possible place for working on your ford, however they all cost too much :)

JoeDirt said:
-shocks (monroe sensatrac - soon to be rep. w/ either rancho or edelbrock)

I would not put Edelbrocks on there. You're better off with almost any other shock.

And tire-wise, I like BFG A/T's from the tires you listed.

oh oh I'll play....

Wilderness AT (cheaper than KO, good tire)
But I also suggest looking at other brands that are much cheaper for pretty much the same tire (Courser for one)

I agree get the Rancho's, 9000 if you want adjustable. RSX or sensatracs are pretty much the same shock (Monroe owns Rancho FYI) both great riding shocks

with 165K you should flush and fill ALL FLUIDS, brake, coolant, power steering.
You should also check all the suspension bushings (sway bars mainly) for wear and replace with urethane (easy, cheap, makes a huge difference). replace thermostat. Clean MAS, TB, IAC, reset computer. Check all plastic vacuum lines for leaks, check torque on upper intake manifold.
Clean EGR sensor and tube, if equipped.

Ceramic pads in my experience stop excellent, they dont heat fade like metallics, however they chew up your rotors more than twice as fast.

Expect 02 sensors, waterpump, cat converter, etc to be coming up. POssibly a radiator and fan clutch as well.

Wow...awesome advice. The dealer just called...time to pick up my truck. They said it runs fine now...we'll see:)

Thanks again guys...I'll let you know how well it rides!


:D :D :D :D :D

Im back and happy to announce that my truck has no vibrations from 0-84 mph...I couldnt go much faster (too many big trucks in the way at rush hour).

What a relief... :chug:


what was the bill?
$50 or so for the parts?

Dealer got me for $96 parts for the rebuild...Im going underneath tomorrow to check it out. They didnt charge labor for the rebuild...but probably added on to the parts...should only have been ball joint bearing in there...oh well, she's smooth as ever.

Im going to put on ranchos...not sure if I should get the $54 rsx ones or the rancho9000...I don't offroad much, some sand driving here and there...any thoughts on this, 410?

Which Ranchos?

:bounce: a final question:

I did a search for shocks and was overwhelmed with the variety/suggestions. I pretty much have a stiff ride right now with bf goodrich ta ko A/T light truck tires. I like the bf goodrich tires for the winter, but my favorite ride was on the wilderness...a good tire for me 75K on them (but Im not looking to open that can of worms up).

I do about 400 miles a weekend highway driving so I'm looking for shocks to give a nice smooth ride, tight handling.
Which Ranchos? Thanks

Fyi Rear Shaft Rebuild

here is what I paid $96 for on the rebuild:

3 ft. of bandit straps
2 band clips
1 center kit
1 R&R Center kit

410Fortune said:
$1800 for a T case and install, man you got hosed.
I call them stealerships.
EVERYONE calls them Stealerships! :confused:

You're MOST likely to get hosed from a shop that has a HIGH overhead. :(

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