Time to upgrade the '02 Sport! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Time to upgrade the '02 Sport!

R-code

Member
Joined
June 4, 2020
Messages
38
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29
City, State
NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Sport
After a successful 5.0 swap two years ago I decided it's time to add some real punch to my Sport! Had a fresh motor built with new rods and pistons, AFR heads, a Comp Cam, 24# injectors, and an extrude honed upper and lower intake manifold. Dropping it all of with the mechanic today, should be able to get it tuned next week. Wish me luck!

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Go Man! Good Luck with it!
 






First lesson learned... OBX headers don't fit on AFR heads unless you get rid of the extra gasket flange on the driver side primary. Everything else appears to be going well!
 






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McLeod StreetPro clutch (kit 75112) bolted up and ready to go in! With any luck it'll be moving under it's own power by tomorrow.
 












It’s in and running! Goes on the dyno Friday, will report back with numbers.
 






It’s in and running! Goes on the dyno Friday, will report back with numbers.
Glad to hear!

As a fellow 2nd gen Sport owner (and V8 swap wannabe), these builds always inspire me. I'm curious what transmission you'll be running? Just about all the V8 Sports I've seen on here run a 4R70, but I definitely like the idea of three-pedal eight cylinder Sport.
 






Glad to hear!

As a fellow 2nd gen Sport owner (and V8 swap wannabe), these builds always inspire me. I'm curious what transmission you'll be running? Just about all the V8 Sports I've seen on here run a 4R70, but I definitely like the idea of three-pedal eight cylinder Sport.
I used the 5-speed out of a '98 F-150 with the 4.2l V6 and the BW4406 and drive shafts out of a 99-04 F-150 so I could keep electric shift-on-the-fly. Clutch, flywheel, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and starter are all out of a '95 F-150. In order for this to work the transmission crossmember needed to be modified, the gas tank was moved back about 2", both drive shafts were shortened, and the shifter trim had to be cut a little bit because the F-150 5-speed places the whole thing back a few inches further than the Ranger/Explorer units. Aside from that, it bolts right in and works great!
 






Dyno tune was a failure… tuner thinks the ECU is fried. I’m not sure what to do from here so I’m just towing it home tonight.
 






Dang!

Were you running an OEM Ford ECU from your original 5.0 swap, or an aftermarket standalone unit?
 






The one that came out of the donor 2000 5.0. Same tuner did some work on it after the initial swap to turn off some of the transmission codes it was throwing and make it run on 93 octane. Truck drove fine for the most part with the new engine and the existing tune, save for a rough idle and trying to stall at lights.

As soon as he tried to make the most of the new motor it started acting up. Wouldn’t stay running, bucked terribly when it did run. He tried to put the original tune back on it and that didn’t take, it still ran terribly. Going to replace the ECU and see what happens.
 






That stinks!
I can’t believe it ran well for you with the 24# injectors and a stock pcm

What year is the 5.0 donor? Computer?

Torque monster headers and obx headers need a little massaging to fit aluminum heads yes, part of the head gets shaved off….

That manual transmission is called the Mazda m5od-r2

Well done so far keep us posted
 






That stinks!
I can’t believe it ran well for you with the 24# injectors and a stock pcm

What year is the 5.0 donor? Computer?

Torque monster headers and obx headers need a little massaging to fit aluminum heads yes, part of the head gets shaved off….

That manual transmission is called the Mazda m5od-r2

Well done so far keep us posted
Thanks! The donor truck was a 2000 so that’s what all the wiring, ECU, MAF, etc. came from.
 






Dyno tune was a failure… tuner thinks the ECU is fried. I’m not sure what to do from here so I’m just towing it home tonight.
Got it running! Turns out it was a bad ECU, just got back from the dyno last night and it's almost 100% sorted out. Just need to put some miles on it to clear the P1000 and see what pops up. It likes to stall when I'm coming to a stop, tuner thinks he can iron that out with a few minor tweaks and I'm managing it with the throttle in the meantime. Tuning was done by Al Junior at Fonse Performance in Sicklerville, NJ. He used a Mustang Dyno and Delta Force Tuning, truck put down 237hp and 276tq. It makes power up to about 5400 so that's where we set the redline. Runs and sounds great, pulls way harder than it did with the stock 5.0. I'm extremely happy with it!
 






276 ft lbs at the wheels no slouch! Glad she’s running!! Seriously a bad pcm can be very hard ti diagnose
 






dang!!! 275 wheel is great!!!! wish i broke 225 🤣
 






Will you show us some more pictures? People love pictures

We want to see the engine bay and the interior/shifter area

Does your ESOF 4406 shift properly? Even low range?
 






Will you show us some more pictures? People love pictures

We want to see the engine bay and the interior/shifter area

Does your ESOF 4406 shift properly? Even low range?
Sure thing! I'm going to put it up on a lift in the near future to make some tweaks to the exhaust and replace my rear shocks, I can get a bunch of good shots then.

4L isn't working yet, I have a collection of posts and how-tos that I'm going to reference when I finally try to tackle that project. I wanted to get the basic engine swap completed before I messed with any more wiring to make trouble-shooting easier.
 









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The 4 low is not working because the v8s were shipped without a neutral safety ground and feed wire from the dtrs to the gem

All you have to do is pin a ground wire from the trans or frame to the dtrs and then run a wire from the pin next to it from the dtrs to the c115 42 pin connector in the engine bay (up the spine of the trans)

The wire already exists on the truck side of things
Once you do that your low shift should work

Here is a thread where I built a 2000 ranger 5.0 with the e shift 4406

Post 132 I rebuilt the shift
Motor and then detailed how to add the neutral safety wire for the low range shift


Easy enough!!! Now you know how to fix it!
 






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