Timing Chain Cassettes in 2008 4.0 liter SOHC-Reliability verdict? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Timing Chain Cassettes in 2008 4.0 liter SOHC-Reliability verdict?

Jordan4461

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June 29, 2018
Messages
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Location
ZOO Parkway
City, State
Asheboro, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2008 Explorer Eddie Bauer
Howdy folks,
My Exploder is a 2008 model. I have read a lot of posts regarding the early years, with a lot of cassette failures. Considering that my engine has 190,000+ miles without the same failure (knock on wood), I was wondering if the design and parts had been changed some time in the past due to the known issues with the early models? I keep waiting to hear the death rattle, but hoping not to. Just curious if Ford found a better way with these items.
Thanks!
 



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No improvement to the cassettes that I am aware of. Best bet is to keep up with frequent oil changes using a quality oil. One of the vehicles At my job is a 2006 explore with a 4.0, and I just turned 203,000 miles on the original timing parts. Gets the ook change two or three times a year with Motorcraft synthetic
 






No improvements all to the end when it was phased out in 2010. I am not sure it was even used in Mustangs past 2010 but the plastic guides remained to the end.
And I do not believe the plastic is the issue here. Most manufacturers use plastic chain guides since they are quieter than metal. It's the labor and engine removal part that makes it a daunting task.
 






Mine broke (rear cassette) in the rear - among other issues at 9,000 miles. I just installed a Cloyes set. While there may not be importants in recent years there r plenty of cheap products out there - beware of eBay deals
 






The last update was in late 2006 - early 2007. They changed to the white cassettes over the light brown / tan ones. I'd assume it was a material improvement as the design stayed the same.
 






Eddie -
The cassettes lasted 9,000 on the new replacement engine ?
Did it stay timed ?

How difficult was the entire process and is the engine back in the truck ?
 







Yes, it stayed timed!!!
Granted I have the OTC6488 kit and a lift bar (would have been easier with a hoist to remove the short block), it was still not easy. It was a PITA. I'll post more pics later today. I'm replacing the Borg Warner piece with a Cloyes rear cassette.
 












I had a 97 with 210k on the clock when I sold it with no rattle. In 2003 or 2002 ford switched the tensioner design a little to make the oil pressure kick in better. The real reason the cassettes break is the tensioner letting the chain whip around. Ford changed the material of the cassettes later on as somebody else indicated. Ford did improve then in later years.
 






I was going to ask why not pull just the entire motor, but I am concluding you do not have the hoist....just the bar.
At what point are you ?
 






Would it be "simplier" to pull both the engine and transmission as a unit?
 






Not really, got the transfer case behind the tranny. Pulling the whole engine out by itself is not that complicated.
 







I'm making slow progress. It was 97 degrees and just abusive UV this afternoon. My goal is to have the motor reinstalled tomorrow, heads installed,
I had a difficult time getting that stubborn cover off the back of the motor to access the Jack Shaft Bolt. Then to actually tighten the Jack Shaft bolt to the TTY spec was a pain but I did have a helper and the OTC 6488 incl Harmonic Balancer tool - huge help.
New Cassette is installed. I bought a new Cloyes tensioner. I'm a little nervous not using Motorcraft.

I wish I had a hoist!!!! This job would be so much easier with a hoist... That's my only comment at the moment. I don't think I would have been able to pull the tranny and the motor together, but I like the idea. Heavy too. I'd be afraid of dragging something along the way while removing it
 






Good luck finishing it. I know it's too late, but when I had to pull my v8 out, with some coupons and some sale at Harbor Freight, I got their hoist from $250 to $100. I hope this is the last time you are doing it.
Thanks for the pictures. I can't believe the access to that rear bolt, what an ingenious idea.....
 






I think my tensioners are bad because I'm hearing what sounds like timing chain rattle. I'm really intimidated with pulling an engine because I've never done it before. There are a few engine hoists for sale for about $200 near me.
 






I think my tensioners are bad because I'm hearing what sounds like timing chain rattle. I'm really intimidated with pulling an engine because I've never done it before. There are a few engine hoists for sale for about $200 near me.
If it doesn’t go away a few seconds after startup unfortunately the tensioners already allowed the cassette to be damanged. Bigger fix at that point.

How to: - Timing chain rattle resolution process - SOHC V6

That thread is for 2nd gens but it’s 100% applicable.
 






So I just realized that the sound I'm hearing changes not with rpms, but with throttle. The rattle sound gets louder when I push the gas peddle before the rpms increase. The sound also dies down when I let go of the gas even with higher rpms at low gear, about 3k rpm. This can't be timing right? Sorry to jack the thread...
 






So I just realized that the sound I'm hearing changes not with rpms, but with throttle. The rattle sound gets louder when I push the gas peddle before the rpms increase. The sound also dies down when I let go of the gas even with higher rpms at low gear, about 3k rpm. This can't be timing right? Sorry to jack the thread...
You should start a new thread. But it could be slipping in the timing so idk.
 






Good luck finishing it. I know it's too late, but when I had to pull my v8 out, with some coupons and some sale at Harbor Freight, I got their hoist from $250 to $100. I hope this is the last time you are doing it.
Thanks for the pictures. I can't believe the access to that rear bolt, what an ingenious idea.....

That's how I bought the lift bar. I think I ended up paying under $70 out the door.
Take a look at Cylinder #4. Looks like #4 ingested something metal. There's a bunch of pitting and it's pretty deep. Compression in that Cylinder was pretty solid at 168-170lbs wet and dry.

EDIT: Called the machine shop to inquire if they inspected the head I swapped out. They are going to check the area where the valve guide pushes into the valve area. I'm curious to hear if any metal broke off near the counterbore, if any.
 



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08.....Appears you are doing a NEAT, clean, bang up job. I'm hoping to all works out well for you. Good idea to do a compression check 1st.
 






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