Timing chain gasket/front oil pan

[b_train_98]

I need a little help with this one. I have a antifreeze leak from the timing chain cover and have to replace the front oil pan gasket as well. Do I really have to take the oil pan off (pull the engine?) to replace the front gasket? The only tool I don't have and don't know about is this one t88t-6701-a. It's a seal replacer/cover aligner. Can I replace these gaskets without that tool? It's not a cheap one and nowhere to borrow it from in this small town. Any help would be appreciated. 93 Explorer 4.0L

 

[fixxxer]

I didn't know that there is antifreeze in the timing chain cover, should not be full of coolant or you have a real seriously cracked block?!?!

 

[solitary ogre]

try bars leaks.
it stopped mine from a slow drip.

 

[rsw2008]

mine has the same leak and yes the shop manual says to remove the oil pan. if you remove the studs it shouldnt be a problem. plan to do it my self this spring. ill let you know how it comes out.

 

[b_train_98]

I'm prepared to do this job now. I don't know for sure if I can do it without that tool (t88t-6701-a), has anyone done this job yet? I degreased my engine today, I'll take a close look tomorrow and confirm the leak.

 

[surf]

Did you ever complete this repair? I am midway through and I thought I would give you some insight on what I encountered in case you haven't. I left the oil pan in place and just removed the timing cover. Unfortunately the oil pan gasket did tear when I removed the timing cover. After much deliberation I decided to cut the oil pan gasket on both sides where it meets the block, buy a new oil pan gasket and just use the portion of the gasket needed to replace the portion I cut out. Another option I considered was just replacing the portion of the gasket I remove with black RTV but I think it may not work as well. I will let you know how it turns out when I put it back together.

 

[b_train_98]

$800!

Never did do this one. I got called back to work so didn't have time. I ended up taking it to the shop and paid $800 for it. Then the idiots laid my off again so I would have had the time! A $300 alignment tool scared me a little though. A bit expensive for something I'd only use once. Didn't think of selling it after. Keep posting though, I'm really curious how it goes. I'm pissed that someone else worked on it.

 

[surf]

Upon closer examination I determined that the gasket was not torn. What looked like a torn gasket was actually left over black RTV from assembly at the factory. After cleaning up the RTV I determined the gasket was in very good shape. I think that replacing the timing cover gasket with the engine in the truck is the way to go unless you have other issues you need to address. Once I get the truck fully assembled and running again I will provide a more complete write up about the tools necessary to complete the repair as well as a few tips that might be helpful to others.

 

[surf]

I finally completed the repair and I can say that by far the most difficult part involves obtaining the right tools for the removal and installation of the harmonic balancer. The bolts on the OEM brand puller available at Pep Boys are too short. The bolts supplied with that kit are M8 x 1.25 x 80mm and you need bolts that are M8 x 1.25 x 90mm. Harbor Freight sells a Bolt Puller Set - 46 (Pittsburgh Item #37824) that has the correct size bolts. I was never able to find an installer that would fit the harmonic balancer. I purchased a decent quality universal installer and found the bolt hole in the harmonic balancer is smaller than the thrust screw so it would not work (and it seems that most universal installers would have the same problem unless the kit includes a smaller size thrust screw). If anyone locates the proper tool please share that information. I ultimately had to purchase a longer bolt that was the same diameter and thread pitch as the pulley bolt in order to get it installed. The pulley bolt is m12 x 1.50 x 75mm and I purchased a bolt that was 120mm long which is way too long (I could not find this bolt at a hardware or auto parts store so I ended up ording it from Bolt Depot online and with shipping it cost more than $12). You could probably get away with using a bolt that is 90mm - 100mm long. I wasted a lot of time looking for the right tools so do yourself a favor and get the right tools lined up in advance.

Here are the steps I took to complete the repair:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the air intake hose.

3. Drain the radiator.

4. Remove the fan and radiator shroud.

5. Remove the serpetine belt.

6. Remove the bolt on the harmonic balancer. I used the technique described by Aldive to loosen the bolt because I have an automatic. I used a breaker bar and a 19mm impact wrench socket. I placed the socket on the bolt and then rotated the harmonic balancer until the breaker bar was resting on top of the frame on the driver's side of the engine bay. I then popped the starter a few times and the bolt came loose.

7. Remove the radiator (I was replacing it but even if you are not it is nice to have the extra room to work).

8. Attach the pulley puller to the harmonic balancer. The Haynes manual recommends you insert a longer bolt that has a smaller diameter in the bolt hole for the harmonic balancer so the puller has something to push against. There is a bracket that is attached to the front of the timing cover by two studs and by two bolts to the ac/power steering pump bracket that has to be removed to remove the timing cover. The bolts are the perfect size for this job.

9. Remove the water pump (I replaced mine because it was original and had 160,000 miles on it but if your pump is in good shape you might be able to leave it in place when doing this repair).

10. Remove the bolts from the timing cover. The Haynes manual says to mark all of the stud and bolt locations but I relied on the diagram in the manual. The studs are all the same size and all the bolts are the same size except for one which is installed at the bottom of the timing cover on the driver's side. Don't forget to remove the bolts that go through the oil pan into the bottom of the cover. Once all the bolts are out pull the cover off.

11. Remove any gasket material attached to the timing cover and the engine block. I found quite a bit of black ATV on the oil pan which I needed to remove. Clean the gasket mating surfaces with a solvent. Install a new seal in the cover. Put RTV on the gasket mating surfaces (I used blue RTV here) and at the locations where the block, oil pan and timing cover meet (I used black RTV here) and at the corners seal cover (black again). Place the gasket on the block, install the cover with the bolts and studs hand tight then torque to spec.

12. Install the harmonic balancer. I used the longer bolt I purchased, a stack of washers and the thrust bearing from my useless universal installer and it actually went on very easily. Once I had it started I removed the longer bolt and used the old harmonic balancer bolt to seat the balancer the rest of the way. I then pulled that out and installed the new bolt. Of course when you get down to toqueing the bolt the cranksahft wants to turn. I used a strap wrench to hold the harmonic balancer in place while torqueing down the bolt.

13. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

So far no oil or coolant leaks. I hope this helps.

 

[b_train_98]

You didn't mention any use of the alignment tool (t88t-6701-a). As I understand, this tool is used to properly line up the timing cover? How did you do that? No oil or coolant leaks (good job by the way), how long has it been and still no leaks?
It's my only vehicle and I'm days from getting any tools or parts I might have needed. Aside from shelling out $800, I'm ALMOST glad I took it to the shop. Thanks for the write up!

 

[surf]

The tool you identified is used to install the front oil seal into the timing cover. The Haynes manual recommends using a large socket or piece of pipe to set the seal in the timing cover. This is the method I used. The tool you found would make it easier to install the seal while the cover was still attached to the engine but it is easy enough to install the seal while the cover is off. I have not driven the truck very far yet because it sat in my driveway for two years and I am trying to ease it back into the rotation. I have run the engine extensively while taking care of other repairs and I have yet to see any leaks. In the coming weeks I hope to drive it more so I can make sure there are no issues.

 

[surf]

Just wanted to provide an update. I have put about 200 miles on the truck since the repair and still no oil or coolant leaks. It took guite a while to burp the cooling system. I think this was because so much air was introduced into the system because of the removal of all the hoses and other parts. It took me three separate attempts before I got enough air out of the system.

 

[b_train_98]

If you have got the truck up to normal operating temps a few times I would think there wouldn't be any issue's. Burping the system isn't my favorite thing to do either, haven't had that much fun with it before. I didn't see in my Haynes book where it says you can use a socket or pipe to install the seal, although I vaguely remember reading that somewhere. Mine is fixed so I don't have to worry about it. Thanks for the update.

 

[surf]

I just wanted to provide another update. I have developed a small oil leak where the timining cover meets the oil pan. It is not bad enough for me to tear into it again to fix it but if I had it to do it over again I would have applied the RTV over the entire area where the timing cover and pan meet rather than just at the corners.

 

[b_train_98]

Can you loosen the four bolts on the oil pan and squirt some RTV in their? Maybe next oil change you can do it? I know that's a bad area for leaks, had a leak years ago.