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Timing Chain Mess

FL-Gun-Nut

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March 1, 2017
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City, State
Eustis, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer XLT
Ok, so I need an expert in this field to help me here...

2007 Ford Explorer, 4.0 V6, 2WD with 108,000 miles.

Back in December I noticed a loud rattle that turned out to be a timing chain tensioner (front). Had it replaced.

Weeks later, rattle came back and I lost the guides, probably from how bad the first tensioner was before it was replaced.

Had the guides, chain and gears done. Ran quiet for about 2 weeks, rattle came back. Took it back to the shop and the swapped out the aftermarket tensioner for an OEM one.

Drove it for a day, rattle came back. Took it back to the shop and they put in an oil restrictor tube located near the tensioner. They think that there might be some debris or sludge in the passage, so they added some oil additive to help break down sludge.

It seems a lot quieter, but the rattle is still there. They're telling me to drive it out for at least 100 miles so that the additive can do its job.

I'm at a loss on this. I don't want to keep pumping money into this issue, I'v already spent $1500 and I've only had the thing for 7 months.
 






Sorry for your troubles. Its very odd that after a complete timing hob the rattle is still there. How did you come to the conclusion in the beginning that the timing chain was rattling? Any driveablity problems?
 






Aren't there 3 chains on the 4.0L? I've fortunately never needed to open mine up yet, but 11 years and 120,000 miles tells me the day is coming.
 






1500 seems a little cheap for this job. Are you sure they pulled the engine and did the rear chain and the primary chain and tensioner? The cloys kit alone is around 300 bucks without balance shaft chain and tensioner for the 2wd, looking at another 100 for gaskets and 300 for the OTC timing kit. That and 12 hrs book time to pull the engine (quote from a local shop) doesn't leave much room for profit at 1500 bucks. The front driver chain and primary can be done without pulling the engine but either the transmission needs to be dropped or the engine pulled to do the rear.
 






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