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How to: Timing chain rattle resolution process - SOHC V6

broncojunkie

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The cold start rattle may be more due to a lack of oil than cold. My cold start rattle was due to a broken rear guide assembly. Even aften replacing all of the failed camshaft timing components the engine still rattled at cold start for a second or two. I eliminated all cold start rattle by installing a pre-oiler. The only way to know with certainty the source of your problem is to visually inspect.


I was listening to it again this morning. It really wasn't nearly as loud as I remembered (I work on the river for 28 days and just got back a few days ago). I wonder if anyone has had any luck using oil additives/stabilizers to help quiet the noise? I realize it wouldn't be fixing the problem, only addressing the symptom. However, if it worked, it could help confirm what the problem is before you go yanking motors and junk.
 


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600r

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I looked for estimates for replacing all chains and tensioners in my 185K mile Explorer and two out of the three shops told me they wouldn't do it because of failures in engines soon after previous jobs they'd done for others. They wanted to do engine replacements. Comments?
 




2000StreetRod

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lack of tools & expertise

I looked for estimates for replacing all chains and tensioners in my 185K mile Explorer and two out of the three shops told me they wouldn't do it because of failures in engines soon after previous jobs they'd done for others. They wanted to do engine replacements. Comments?

Many auto repair shops do not have the tools (OTC 6488) or the knowledge to perform timing chain replacements properly. Some of the shop instructions can be misinterpreted resulting in the camshafts being off by 180 degrees. There is a large variation in quality in the aftermark components available. Most shops don't want to purchase OEM products because they don't make as much money on them as aftermarket and they are expensive so the customer complains when OEM components are used. The engine must be pulled to replace all of the timing componensts. Pulling the engine is labor intensive and costly. Replacing the timing components is also labor intensive. Shops prefer to replace the engine to reduce labor and minimize their risk.

When seeking a non-Ford shop to do timing chain work I suggest asking to see the tool set to time the engine. If they don't have it find another shop. Also ask how many successful timing chain replacements the actual technician to do your work has performed. Don't let a technician "learn" how to replace timing components using your engine.

The SOHC V6 is a complicated engine to work on. Many mechanics have problems just removing the crankshaft balancer. Most mechanics don't want to invest the time to learn how the engine works and how to repair it. They just want to take it apart, replace components, and put it back together to look like it was.
 




lurker01

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Just to add a little.
Did not take engine out. Main tensioner broken as well as tensioner on balance shaft. Managed to get new balance shaft tensioner in without taking engine out. Took new spring off new base, notched the spring on the end that goes on the pin, bent old (still mounted) base down a little, installed new spring on old base (was not too easy, just be persistent), bent old base back into place. Did not take crank sprocket off either.
 




Gatemann

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Just to add a little.
Did not take engine out. Main tensioner broken as well as tensioner on balance shaft. Managed to get new balance shaft tensioner in without taking engine out. Took new spring off new base, notched the spring on the end that goes on the pin, bent old (still mounted) base down a little, installed new spring on old base (was not too easy, just be persistent), bent old base back into place. Did not take crank sprocket off either.

Hi,so you did not remove the oil pan to do the balance shaft tensioner?
 












jezinbris

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Hi All

FRONT and REAR TENSIONERS

I bought a UQ XLT SOHC and I got the rattle on start up (193,000klms)..
I got new tensioners from a third party (not FORD OEM), and had my mechanic replace them. He said the front/long tensioner on start up made a really loud rattle, so shut the engine down. He then put the old rear/short tensioner in the front to see what would happen and it worked, well almost.

Its been a few weeks, and I noptice when I start the engine when cold, it gives I guess a slight rattle, but the engin seems to do a half second high rev when it starts at the same time of the slight rattle.

QUESTIONS -
1. The original cars from the factory had the same size tensioners for front and rear, then Ford at some stage put a longer tensioner in the front. Since I have the old short tensioner now in the front, do you think I should spend the extra money and buy another long tensioner for the front, but this time from FORD at great expensive, or try another third party long tensioner?

2. FUEL CONSUMPTION - - The XLT drinks petrol, if there was one area to check first to try and reduce fuel consumption, what would it be.. ( I do have a new air filter and furl filter)...??

Thanks very much

Jez :)
 




bonz1234

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rattle comes and goes

have a question my 98 explorer when you start i runs real nice for as long as you turn it off
onece you do it rattles replaced tensioners front and rear no help was going to check oil pan to see if something is stuck in filter peice of timming ajuster and staving the oil when it gets hot got any other hints or possiable sugestions I realy wasn't looking forward pulling the engine, and is it possable to replace cassettes and chains in the front with out pulling the motor
gsedall@yahoo.com
 




2000StreetRod

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pulling the engine?

It is not necessary to pull the engine to replace the front timing components. However, it is very difficult to replace the balance shaft chain tensioner with the engine in a 4WD vehicle because the block cradle must be lowered to access the tensioner base mounting bolts.

I suggest that you read the following:
SOHC V6 Timing Chain Inspection & Repair

If you have 4WD you may have a failed balance shaft chain tensioner.
BlncShft.jpg
 




wbrudi28

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I'm looking to address this problem on my 2004 4.0 4x4 SOHC, 129K on the clock.

I'm planning on doing with a friend who is a mechanic, at his house. We will be pulling the motor out to simplify working on the motor itself.

While the motor is out, i'm planning on replacing all of the Timing Chain components, as well as a general tune up (plugs, wires, etc).

I'm purchasing all Motorcraft parts from Rockauto.com for the tune up, but i'm confused as to what brand to purchase for the timing chain replacement parts. Rockauto.com sells Cloyes, Sealed Power, Enginetech and DNJ brand parts. Money is not a problem, as i'm saving tons on the labor and part markup.

Could someone point me in the right direction, as to what kit to purchase? Thats assuming either of these are the "good" Ford brand parts. They sell Motorcraft, so i would assume they sell whatever Ford uses in the timing chain components.

heres a picture of my truck too, since everyone likes pictures

image-1.jpg
 












Justin1985

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My 96 explorer (V8) has a rattle from about 1250 to 1750 ONLY while moving and after warmup. If I put it in gear and hold my foot on the brake while giving gas, it still won't make the noise. Only while moving and light gas pedal depression. I have put high octane in to possibly eliminate spark knock and checked the oil. I only noticed it after a tire change (coincidence?). Sound seems to come from engine compartment, passenger side. I have a thread for this but no replies in a week.
 




RabanJr

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Hello all.
This is my first post.
I just recently bought a 2008 v6 Explorer with 80k miles.
For a week or so all was good. Then all of a sudden this clackity clack sound is coming from the engine when the engine is cold and it it is colder than 70° outside.

I have uploaded a video showing the sound:
https://youtu.be/JmqztkDD_xY

I have seen so many posts about engine sounds that I am not sure what it is.
If anyone has any suggestions what it could be, it would be great.

Thanks
 




2000StreetRod

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use a hose

You might try listening thru a length of flexible hose to locate the source of the noise. I suspect something in contact with the serpentine belt - possibly the belt tensioner or belt idler. Other possibilities are a water pump bearing or power steering pump bearing. Also check the harmonic balancer. Sometimes the outer pulley section separates from the inner section.
 




RabanJr

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Thank you so much for your input.
I will have to find a good mechanic as I just moved to a new city.
 




RabanJr

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Just an update.
You were right! I took my explorer to were I bought it and they changed the belt tensioner and the belt.
It seems to have done the trick and I am getting better gas mileage afterwards.

Thanks again!
 




Mingram97

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I have a 2002 ford explorer XLT 4x2 4.0 V6 i changed the tensioners but i cant get the left hand side tensioner back in. the rear tensioner went in without a problem any ideas? it goes in 1/3 way then cross threads. dealers wants 300 bucks to put in. just for labor. thanks for the help.
 


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2000StreetRod

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front tensioner

The front tensioner is longer than the rear tensioner and the spring is stronger when starting the threads. You have to push to compress the spring and start the tensioner by hand until it rotates at least 3 times. I suggest that you chase the threads with something before trying again. A tap may be difficult to find but probably worth the effort because once the bore is cross threaded too far you'll have a mess. Maybe you can extract the piston from the old tensioner and use it with some cutting oil to chase the threads.
 




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