Okay, I pulled the engine out this evening and found that both the primary tensioner and the balance shaft tensioner are blown out...big ol' chunks of plastic in the oil pan. Both casettes are in good shape though..yes I am changing them. So far to pull the engine and tear it down to the point if removing the chains I have 11 hours into this project. Now its time to break out the OTC 6488...this should be fun!
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Timing chain...so far
- Thread starter schusdad
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2000StreetRod
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good progress!
You're making good progress. I suggest that you check the inner diameter of the oil pickup tube screen for pieces trapped inside. You may have to remove the reinforcement section (upper oil pan) to replace the balance shaft tensioner. Some members have just removed and replaced part of the tensioner without removing the reinforcement section.
Do you have a copy of the SOHC V6 assembly instructions? The pdf file was very helpful to me. If you (or anyone else) need them just PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it. Keep us informed on your progress and any problems encountered.
You're making good progress. I suggest that you check the inner diameter of the oil pickup tube screen for pieces trapped inside. You may have to remove the reinforcement section (upper oil pan) to replace the balance shaft tensioner. Some members have just removed and replaced part of the tensioner without removing the reinforcement section.
Do you have a copy of the SOHC V6 assembly instructions? The pdf file was very helpful to me. If you (or anyone else) need them just PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it. Keep us informed on your progress and any problems encountered.
Okay...the engine is back together with all sorts of brand spankin' new parts in it and it is timed properly(thank you to all those that put up all the info!). All I need to do next is re-install the damned thing. Okay and now for some observations....the left casette was fine, but I figured I would replace it since I bought a whole kit. Well the damned guide wouldn't come out. The pivot part of it would just barely hit on the block casting and I couldn't get it out. I had to pop off the plastic guide part and out it came...what a pain! The new one slipped right in no problems. After dealing with all this I think that who ever engineered this is out of their mind. I am not exactly a shade tree mechanic, I have over 25+ years of experience and am a ASE certified master tech with an L2 in advanced diesel diagnostics, plus I 5 pages of GM certifications. I currently build and dyno 400+ hp (800+ ft lbs of torque 
)high performance marine diesel engines. I am not trying to pat myself on the back, I am just saying I have a basis of knowledge. Out of all the engines I have worked on I have never had to do that type of timing procedure..it leaves a lot of room for error. Not pinning gears is risky, sure the bolt holds it in place but there could be some unforseen load that could fight a friction fit. On the diesel engines that I deal with all the gears are pinned, and some of the ones I work on have a gear train for the injection system then run a timing belt to run the valve train and all the gears are pinned with timing marks engraved on them. On the other hand the OTC tool kit does a great job and I would never think to use anything else. Okay enough of my soap box!
)high performance marine diesel engines. I am not trying to pat myself on the back, I am just saying I have a basis of knowledge. Out of all the engines I have worked on I have never had to do that type of timing procedure..it leaves a lot of room for error. Not pinning gears is risky, sure the bolt holds it in place but there could be some unforseen load that could fight a friction fit. On the diesel engines that I deal with all the gears are pinned, and some of the ones I work on have a gear train for the injection system then run a timing belt to run the valve train and all the gears are pinned with timing marks engraved on them. On the other hand the OTC tool kit does a great job and I would never think to use anything else. Okay enough of my soap box!ahhh finally got the engine and the trans to bolt up to each other,,,what a f*%#ing pain that was...4 ratchet straps, 1 bottle jack, 1 portapower an engine hoist and 4 hours of time...eeesh way too much stuff to do that job. Part of the problem was the rh exhaust manifold could not be unbolted from the exhaust so I unbolted it from the head. So on installation the manifold was pushing the engine out of alignment. I managed to get 1 bolt undone tonight(several days of soaking with penetrating oil) so with that gone and a ratchet strap going from the manifold to the wall in my garage that was now out of my way and I was able to get everything together.
2000StreetRod
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clever idea
I also could not loosen one of the passenger side manifold to downpipe bolts. I ended cutting the head off. I didn't think of unbolting the manifold from the head. I'll remember that as a future option.
I also could not loosen one of the passenger side manifold to downpipe bolts. I ended cutting the head off. I didn't think of unbolting the manifold from the head. I'll remember that as a future option.
windsors03cobra
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I agree with you on the Rube Goldberg timing chain design sadly newer engine designs with their OHC's and timing chains seem to be hit or miss with timing chain woes but many cars that do have the "last for life" chains do sooner or later develop a problem that ends the "life" of the engine.
Using mostly 1960's domestic technology most all of my cars have the tried and true cam in block and these things seem to go forever.
I used to think timing belts were kind of mickey mouse and cheap but many sure are decent/easy to change and also seem to be damn durable.
I kind of consider the modification done to the 4.0 to make it OHC to be kind of ridiculous and being a hardcore Ford person I call the OHC 4.0 the worst motor Ford ever made and I just steered a guy clear of an 2004 last week, he bought a 2006 Chevy HHR instead.
I recently unloaded my OTC cam tools for $75 and was so happy to see them go. As a shadetree mechanic I never attempt repair on these bombs, I swing a boneyard piece in and send em on their way.
90% of the time the exhaust manifold flange bolts are to rusty to remove easily and I leave both manifolds on place, pry bars, tilting and sliding then engine from one side to other help.
Once you are past the manifolds and you are close to the transmission which needs to be lifted higher than normal and the converter and flywheel are clocked to line up the 2 should slide right together and clunk when they kiss.
Myself after working on the 4.0 bought the 5.0.
I do have a 4.0 it is a bulletproof straight six, Kenosha built.
Using mostly 1960's domestic technology most all of my cars have the tried and true cam in block and these things seem to go forever.
I used to think timing belts were kind of mickey mouse and cheap but many sure are decent/easy to change and also seem to be damn durable.
I kind of consider the modification done to the 4.0 to make it OHC to be kind of ridiculous and being a hardcore Ford person I call the OHC 4.0 the worst motor Ford ever made and I just steered a guy clear of an 2004 last week, he bought a 2006 Chevy HHR instead.
I recently unloaded my OTC cam tools for $75 and was so happy to see them go. As a shadetree mechanic I never attempt repair on these bombs, I swing a boneyard piece in and send em on their way.
90% of the time the exhaust manifold flange bolts are to rusty to remove easily and I leave both manifolds on place, pry bars, tilting and sliding then engine from one side to other help.
Once you are past the manifolds and you are close to the transmission which needs to be lifted higher than normal and the converter and flywheel are clocked to line up the 2 should slide right together and clunk when they kiss.
Myself after working on the 4.0 bought the 5.0.
I do have a 4.0 it is a bulletproof straight six, Kenosha built.
I thought of going the junkyard route myself, but it would cost as much or more for the engine than a timing chain set and all the gaskets needed to do the job and there is no knowing if 3 months down the road that it would blow a chain. This way I know what I have and the workload isn't that much more.
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