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Timing chain tensioner QUICK QUESTION!

mattcc88

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I'm about to order parts to swap out a timing chain tensioner on my 2001 4L SOHC.

The tensioner in question, I believe, is the front tensioner, right behind the thermostat housing on the top of the engine.

One of the youtube videos I saw showed them removing a tensioner with a "reservoir" (long black extension).


After looking at my car, which rattles terribly, it looks like the tensioner on it doesn't have a reservoir.

QUESTION: anyone know if the front tensioner is reservoir or not?

does anyone know if I can install a tensioner with a reservoir even if mine doesn't currently have that?

Thanks,
Matt

Ford Explorer Sport
2001
SOHC V6 4L
:usa:
 



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Flash

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The rear/right tensioner is still short.

Do you know why? There seems to be room.

I suppose the long tensioner is an improvement, so what would happen if you put a long one in the back. (phrasing)
 






rocket22

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am I missing something?

I have a tensioner rattle in a 2000 Explorer. I thought the only repair was to pull the front chain cover, is there another option?
 






2000StreetRod

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different face to piston length

Do you know why? There seems to be room.

I suppose the long tensioner is an improvement, so what would happen if you put a long one in the back. (phrasing)

Because the left and right cassette guide assemblies are different the tensioner sealing face to piston end length are different. If you use a left tensioner in the right head the piston will be more compressed. It may not have adequate travel range and cause the cassette guide to break.

Ford never did adequately resolve the guide assembly defects. The right cassette guide still is not reinforced with metal on both sides - only one. I would have reinforced the right one first since when it breaks either the engine or transmission must be pulled to replace it.
 






2000StreetRod

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four tensioners

I have a tensioner rattle in a 2000 Explorer. I thought the only repair was to pull the front chain cover, is there another option?

There are up to four chain tensioners in the SOHC V6:
Primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain tensioner
Left camshaft chain tensioner
Right camshaft chain tensioner
Balance shaft chain tensioner

I suspect the tensionsers rarely rattle. The rattle usually comes from a loose chain.
 






Flash

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Because the left and right cassette guide assemblies are different the tensioner sealing face to piston end length are different. If you use a left tensioner in the right head the piston will be more compressed. It may not have adequate travel range and cause the cassette guide to break.

Ford never did adequately resolve the guide assembly defects. The right cassette guide still is not reinforced with metal on both sides - only one. I would have reinforced the right one first since when it breaks either the engine or transmission must be pulled to replace it.

Ah, so it is. Different by about 1/4 inch.
 






mattcc88

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100_2680.jpg


I'm not sure if this will help or if I loaded the image correctly, but the tensioner I want to change is to the right of the temp sensor, directly below the black wire. On my model, 2001, it is flat, but on the model pictured it has a reservoir. This is the view from above the thermostat housing on the front of the engine, sorry it appears to be massive.

Should I be concerned that messing with these could break a timing chain?
 






2000StreetRod

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buy a quality tensioner

I'm not sure if this will help or if I loaded the image correctly, but the tensioner I want to change is to the right of the temp sensor, directly below the black wire. On my model, 2001, it is flat, but on the model pictured it has a reservoir. This is the view from above the thermostat housing on the front of the engine, sorry it appears to be massive.

Should I be concerned that messing with these could break a timing chain?

If you purchase a quality tensioner there is no reason for concern. I suggest that you test the new part before installing it by depressing the piston with your thumb and releasing to make sure it retracts and extends smoothly. I used to recommend replacing the spring/hydraulic tensioner every 75,000 miles but many of the newer tensioners have a weaker spring than the old ones being replaced. I still recommend replacing the old style tensioners with the new style. Some members who have purchased poor quality aftermarket tensioners have experienced problems due to the piston sticking or even being seized in a particular position. To learn more about timing chain related issues see my helpful threads.
 






rocket22

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can someone chime in

I also have a chain rattle, and do not think the change of these tensioners will do anything, although I hope I am wrong. The guide is most likely shot and sitting in the bottom of the timing chain cover.
 






Flash

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I also have a chain rattle, and do not think the change of these tensioners will do anything, although I hope I am wrong. The guide is most likely shot and sitting in the bottom of the timing chain cover.

The idea is to change out the tensioner as soon as or preferably before you hear the rattle, that's what saves the guides.
 






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