Timing Chain- why not remove AC and radiator? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Timing Chain- why not remove AC and radiator?

hertfordnc

Active Member
Joined
August 19, 2014
Messages
79
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13
Location
Eastern NC
City, State
Hertford, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 XLT 4.6 xlt
I'm getting ready to do timing chain guides on my 2004 XLT.

I've looked at a lot of videos. All that reaching down behind the radiator looks miserable.

I do my own AC, i have what i need to recover and replace R134. Seems like it would be a lot easier to remove the rad, the AC condenser and the grill and go at it fro mthe front.

What am i missing?
 



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I'm getting ready to do timing chain guides on my 2004 XLT.

I've looked at a lot of videos. All that reaching down behind the radiator looks miserable.

I do my own AC, i have what i need to recover and replace R134. Seems like it would be a lot easier to remove the rad, the AC condenser and the grill and go at it fro mthe front.

What am i missing?
@hertford
I think you are missing very little, except that the "professionals" are instructed to remove as little stuff "in the way" as possible, in order to get the job done, then kiss it back onto the street. If additional R&R work helps you accomplish the job, I would always do it (and always have), saves some bruised knuckles and cussing. imp
 






I didn't bother, because I don't have access to the refrigerant, and didn't want to pay someone else to do it. I also already had the timing cover off to inspect the guides before I ordered parts. I had quite a bit of space so I never bothered. I did have the water pump on when dropping it back in, but not the fan, and still had more then enough space to drop it back in. Any shop that does AC up here would probably crack me at least 300 bucks to recharge the AC by the time the blood sucking government was done taxing every aspect of it they could, and it didn't cost me nearly that much in my own labour to get it back in without pulling the condenser.
 






Because it's more labor and more possibilities for something to go wrong. Doesn't make sense to do more work than necessary. YMMV
 






Ok, I am half way into this and I would definitely recommend removing the radiator and AC at this point.

Tha arguments above are not wrong. It might take a bit longer and there is more risk of breaking something or not getting the AC back together right and having a leak.

But I am not a mechaninc. I'm an amateur with a lot of tools. Being able to see everything reduces the liklihood i will forget to clean something properly or fail to apply gasket sealer in all the right places.

Look up how to remove the radiator. it turns out the radiator and AC cendensor come out as a unit. pretty easy.

Then i popped off the grill and now i have easy access to the whole front of the engine. I was able to fit a 1/2" impact in there which got the rest of the parts off pretty easily. I also used air on the bolt for the harmonic balancer.

But i still could not get the harmonic banacer off with a puller and i had to use a little heat. That would have been much more difficult with the radiator in the way.

Also, all the videos mention using a special tool to hold the cam down to break the bolt loose on the gear. But I just wrenched it with a quick push on a long breaker bar with all the chains in place.
 






Baby 1/2" impact, can be found for around $100 online. Best money you'll ever spend.

Side note I can pull the balancer, the lower timing cover bolts out and remove the engine without touching the radiator. I also work on Ford's for a living.

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I may put that impact on my wishlist. But you're maikng my point. a professional knows his way around and can do things in ways i can't

I'm still trying to figure out how to drop the power steering pump.
 






I'm still trying to figure out how to drop the power steering pump.

Take the 2 10mm bolts off that you can put a socket on first. Then you can squeeze a 10mm gearwrench in under the power steering line and remove the last bolt. That bolt will come out with the pump and will be first to go back in. I do it without disconnecting any of the power steering lines or draining the fluid.

This is a difficult job for a DIY. It's definitely do able in the driveway but a shop makes it much easier. Removing the balancer and power steering pump is the hardest part.
 






Thanks. I need to get a set of those wrenches.
If i go at this evening I will probably just pull the line.
 






......This is a difficult job for a DIY. It's definitely do able in the driveway but a shop makes it much easier. Removing the balancer and power steering pump is the hardest part.
@boominXplorer

Please, what is a "gearwrench". imp
 


















Ah! Thank you! Skinnier head than a common ratchet. Haven't a one in my pile! imp
Dude you must get some of these. I don't have a full set just 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm. Very handy!

Doc
 






I love my gear wrench set's so handy
 












Have you been underground the last 10 years? Just kidding!!!!! You have no idea what your missing.
@boominXplorer
Actually, yes, almost! The total weight of my "tools" when it came time to move them to AZ from MO was over 20,000 lbs! Weighed the truck. 'Course that includes the power tools, but anyhow, my Craftsman roll-around is the 5-drawer model with cabinet at bottom, tool chest sits on top of it. Two men had a hard time lifting the chest back up on top. Rest of the tools are in a 3X3X4 foot high steel cabinet I inherited from the service station. The casters collapsed on it, and had to be bolstered with welded gussets. Then, there's the .50 caliber steel ammo boxes full of bolts, nuts, other hardware.

Where the hell could I keep the gearwrenches? Anyhow, if a ratchet head is too wide, how many extensions ya think I've got? imp
 






The trick on the PS pump is to remove the pulley, then the bolt is easy to get to. Should be able to get the "free" rental at the parts store. The pulley is easy to remove/replace.
Of course an excuse to buy more tools is also a good thing. ;)
 






The trick on the PS pump is to remove the pulley, then the bolt is easy to get to. Should be able to get the "free" rental at the parts store. The pulley is easy to remove/replace.
Of course an excuse to buy more tools is also a good thing. ;)

Yes that is an option but any rust in the center thread (Where the installer goes) and its a pain in the butt to install it back on. There isn't a modular p/s pump (4.6/5.4) you have to remove the pulley to pull the pump off to get to timing cover. Yes its tricky but it can be done in all configs.
 









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@boominXplorer I see it has a reverse "flipper", and that Gearwrench is actually it's name. Seems like I saw a similar Craftsman product years ago that was one-way only, and turned over to reverse rotation. imp
 






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