timing chain's 4.0 sohc | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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timing chain's 4.0 sohc

mattley23 said:
Can anyone let me know how much Im probably going to be looking at to fix this tapping noise from my chains?
I'm guessing AT LEAST $800-1200 minimum in USD here Stateside. That's why I decided to throw in the towel and Trade In my "Beautiful" 98 Eddie Bauer.

I was REAL disappointed in it. :( :(
 



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prfrmnj said:
I have a serious noise, but it's not from the timing chains as I replaced all 3 of them. I didn't notice the noise before because of the broken guide on the timing chain, but once I changed all three chains with guides and tensioners I noticed a rattling noise in the engine and I think it's coming from the balance shaft area! As a mater of fact, we pulled the engine out twice and the second time I decided to rebuild the engine. The only thing we didn't change touch was the balance shaft. The chain on it, guide and tensioner as well as the sprocket is new. I did notice that it moved back and forth.

The noise I'm hearing only appears when the engine is at iddle. 900rpms or less. Once I accelerate, it goes away. Any suggestions?

my moms does the exact same thing, at idle you hear a rattleing, but as soon as you touch the gas it goes away. Some one please try and help us. Hopefully someone knows what it is and if its an easy fix, if not i might just find someone with a tuner and raise the idle 100 rpm too about 750, that should be a good band-aid fix, heh.
 












Howard said:
Check all the heat shields on the exhaust and cats.

already did about 10 times, including pulling little stamped plates out from behind the cat shields.
 






When you say rear chain do you mean at the rear of the engine because i grabbed a diagram off of mitchels on line and the only chains i see are on the front of the motor? also are you saying that the tensioners can be changed without all the special tools mine makes a rattleing noise when i first start up but goes away after a feww minutes.
Thanks Haney
 






there is a chain on the rear of the 4.0 sohc motors. not sure about the others(4.0 ohv and 5.0 ohv). to get to the rear chain, you need to pull the motor. you need special tools to align the chains and cam(i read somewhere they cost about $200). if you have ford pull the motor, it will cost about $1200 plus parts ($200). i lost compression in 2 cylinders and my oil pump decided to take a crap, so i just opted for a new motor ($4300 plus tax installed)
 






Has ford fixed this issue? And if they did, what year did they do it?
 






The improved parts started in 2002. Those have been used to upgrade the older parts.
 






what i have found there is a total recall in the US for these if you engine has under 100k on it ford dealers HAVE to replace the cam tensioners and guides, they usualy fail about 60k, but not for me as i live in the UK.....
 






The recall used to be 75,000 miles or five years, that's long past for Ford now.
 






The Uk

Yet another sad case of Ford forgeting us..............If it was not for us sticking together I doubt if many of us would proudly drive or own our Explorers, here is a cheers to all who make ownership a better thing by helping others here on this forum, special thanks to Howard who I know for a fact is the numer one knowlege base in this small island!

The power is in the numbers folks!
 






what is the name of the cap or part number for the cap that you must take off in order to access the bottom bolt of the rh timing cassette?
 






what is the name of the cap or part number for the cap that you must take off in order to access the bottom bolt of the rh timing cassette?

Courtesy of CDW6212R, post #9 on this thread for tensioners etc part numbers that is a sticky in stock 95-2001 explorers

the rear block cover(plug) is F77Z 6026 AB.
 






rear cover access

what is the name of the cap or part number for the cap that you must take off in order to access the bottom bolt of the rh timing cassette?

The cap or cover on the rear of the block covers the jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt. It does not provide access to the lower mounting bolt of the rear cassette. That bolt is under the bellhousing which is why the transmission must be seperated from the engine in order to replace the rear cassette. The photo below shows the jackshaft cover and the rear cassette lower mounting bolt just to the right of the cover.

JPlug1.jpg


See this thread for more information: SOHC V6 Rear Cassette Replacement
 






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