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Tim's '93 Sport

1993 Ford Explorer Sport

Drivetrain

VW 1.9l BEW TDI, stage 4 Malone tune, Garret VNT17 Turbo
TD Conversions trans adapter
M5OD from 1998 Explorer (Replaced original A4LD)
Stock Borg Warner 1354E

Front Suspension
Dana 35 TTB 3.73
Warn 37780 Dana 35 hubs
James Duff 3” long arm lift
Progressive coils
Dual shocks
BrianBuilt Fab diff guard
James Duff steering stabilizer
1993 Chevy K1500 brake lines

Rear Suspension
Ford 8.8 3.73 limited slip
Alcan Spring 3” lift leaf springs
1970’s Jeep J10 brake line

Wheel and Tires
Cragar Soft 8 16x7, 4in backspace with second gen center caps
285/75R16 Goodyear Duratracs

Interior
3D printed ash tray switch panel
Autometer A-Pillar gauge pod with Autometer boost and EGT gauges
Pioneer headunit
Pioneer 4 way speakers
Pioneer 10in sub hidden in place of factory storage pocket in trunk
Pioneer amp

Exterior
Custom swing out tire carrier using stock rear bumper
Clear cut headlights with better bulbs
BrianBuilt Fab cowl light brackets with KC Rally 400 spots
KC 26 series amber fogs mounted behind front grille
Five foot FireStik for CB
91-92 Sport fender trim
First gen Expedition tow hooks

Other Modifications
1994 Jeep ZJ steering shaft
Custom auxiliary/upfitter circuits
A/C delete

Future Modifications
4.56 gears with lockers
Atlas II
Built in sliders (rocker panels are rusty)
Hidden winch behind factory front bumper
Limit straps and bump stops
Skid plates
1-2 more inches of lift

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I should clarify on that. I’m getting 5.1v from the harness. When I back probe the sensor to see it’s change in voltage when the throttle opens, it starts at 0.45v closed and goes to 0.07v when fully open. Shouldn’t it start at 0.45v closed and go to like 4.5v open?
 



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Optimal open should be something like .94v. Closed is 5.0v. Sounds like its working to me.

You can open up the computer and look for any swollen diodes, or solder cracks. They are known for that.

The only item I can even remotely think of that is connected to the clutch pedal, that effects engine speed, is the clutch switch. This cuts out the cruise control when the pedal is depressed. Have a look under the dash, and make sure you didn't kick any wires loose.

Other than that, I'm at a loss.
 






The only item I can even remotely think of that is connected to the clutch pedal, that effects engine speed, is the clutch switch. This cuts out the cruise control when the pedal is depressed. Have a look under the dash, and make sure you didn't kick any wires loose.

Wouldn’t you know it, it was the clutch switch. Looks like the switch went bad. I jumped the different circuits on the harness for the switch and all is good and in working order. Think I’ll just leave the clutch switch out for now.

As always, thanks for your help @gmanpaint!
 






Went out and did some wheeling today at Rainbow Falls/Little Moab near Woodland Park! I hadn't been since June, but it sure feels good to be back out. This was also the first time wheeling with the 5 speed! I'm very happy with the swap still, and even more happy with the control I have off-road. Only stalled it once on a pretty good size rock. I'm undecided on a hand throttle. After today I don't feel like I really need one, but it would be nice to have just in case. I guess we'll just have to take it out wheeling some more to find out:thumbsup: The 5 speed also helped immensely going over Ute Pass into Woodland Park. It was still slow going at 35-40 over the pass. But unlike before, the engine temp never got over 190*. Granted the air was cool this morning. But even still, with the auto the engine used to run in the 200* range on a cool day and even hotter at 205-210* on a hot day with the heat blasting. So I'd have to say that the running hot condition I was seeing was definitely caused by the auto. As far as the slow going, that's probably just caused by a tired 187,000 mile motor. It's my plan to replace the motor in a couple years here, as well as some axle gearing.

I also let my wife drive for her first time off road on part of the Little Moab obstacle. She did pretty good for her first time driving! She was a bit nervous, but managed to get through a pretty rough line on Little Moab. I think she'll get more used to it the more she wheels. We just bought her a Wrangler (I know, don't kick me off of here:laugh:) that she wants to build and take out eventually. She'll need to get used to the Explorer first before we do that!

I've probably mentioned in this thread somewhere about wanting to go to the 5.5" option on my James Duff kit. And I seem to get ideas like that or SAS swap ideas when I haven't wheeled the Explorer for a while. Then I get it out and it's just so good the way it is. It's incredibly comfortable and drivable on the road. And it works so well off-road. It flexes great and it's just so stable being so low. Would it be nice to have a bit more lift and 33s or 35s? Sure it would. But I just don't think this Explorer needs it. I've gone plenty of places that I probably shouldn't have with the way this Explorer is already. And I really don't want to ruin the drivability of it. I would really like to have a full blown trail rig/beater. This Explorer won't ever be that though. It's just too nice and so good the way it is. People used to take old Willy's Jeeps out with small tires and open diffs. And they would go just about anywhere. I've always liked that way of wheeling. When it comes down to it, it's about the ability of the driver off-road and the driver's knowledge of the vehicle. All the big tires and one ton axles aren't necessarily needed unless you're doing some extreme crawling. So I guess what I'm saying is I don't really want to change the Explorer a whole lot from the way it is. I want it to kinda be a "sleeper" if you will. Small lift and "small" tires, but still with gears, lockers, and all the other off-road goodies. I think I'll be able to go just about anywhere I want to that way. Then I can get another Explorer for a full blown rock crawler:D

I know, blah blah blah blah blah.... Here's pictures for y'all to look at!

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Huh? 31's are beginner wheels. 37's are the new 35's these days, and are considered the smallest off road tire to use. :D Lol!
My 33's lasted about a year and looked stock to me. Went to 35's and they look small too. I want 37's now. Eventually I will want 40's, and so on, and so on.

See where I'm going with this? Time on the trails will eventually change your thinking. Never say never! I say at least consider some 33's.

The key with small tires, is to have max amount of axle droop, and have skid plate protection everywhere possible! Get some bigger shock tower/buckets, and longer travel shocks/springs. Add some bigger bump stops, and limit straps. Now go hit that trail, that looked too crazy for you last time you seen it. Bring backup, just in case tho. :D
 






I know I know... you’re probably thinking there’s something wrong with me:crazy: I’m sure I’ll change my mind another 14,000 times before I settle on something!

I am still considering 33’s as a possibility just because it would be nice to have a bit more tire. I wish Goodyear offered the Duratracs in a 33x10.5 size or even 32x11.5. If they did I’d probably already have 32’s or 33’s. I’m stubborn and don’t want to run anything other than Duratracs ha! And part of me just doesn’t want to get rid of the stock wheels. It’s that whole sentimental thing with my Explorer...

I’d say there’s two reasons I don’t want to change the Explorer much. One is the sentimental thing. Being in the family since new and with how clean it is make modifications hard sometimes. I do plan on eventually restoring this thing completely, but that won’t be for a long time though! And the other reason is I just want to be different! Hence why I want to keep the TTB. And some of my reasoning for wanting to stay small tire. I know I’m kinda crazy, but I just want to prove how capable a small rig can be!

I will say the James Duff kit has been awesome with axle droop. It did come with new bigger coil buckets and longer shock mounts. I have been thinking of upgrading from the Duff shocks to something a little nicer though.

The big thing I’m lacking is the body and undercarriage protection, limit straps, and better bump stops. Thinking I can tackle some of those items this summer when classes are out!
 






I know I know... you’re probably thinking there’s something wrong with me:crazy: I’m sure I’ll change my mind another 14,000 times before I settle on something!

I am still considering 33’s as a possibility just because it would be nice to have a bit more tire. I wish Goodyear offered the Duratracs in a 33x10.5 size or even 32x11.5. If they did I’d probably already have 32’s or 33’s. I’m stubborn and don’t want to run anything other than Duratracs ha! And part of me just doesn’t want to get rid of the stock wheels. It’s that whole sentimental thing with my Explorer...

I’d say there’s two reasons I don’t want to change the Explorer much. One is the sentimental thing. Being in the family since new and with how clean it is make modifications hard sometimes. I do plan on eventually restoring this thing completely, but that won’t be for a long time though! And the other reason is I just want to be different! Hence why I want to keep the TTB. And some of my reasoning for wanting to stay small tire. I know I’m kinda crazy, but I just want to prove how capable a small rig can be!

I will say the James Duff kit has been awesome with axle droop. It did come with new bigger coil buckets and longer shock mounts. I have been thinking of upgrading from the Duff shocks to something a little nicer though.

The big thing I’m lacking is the body and undercarriage protection, limit straps, and better bump stops. Thinking I can tackle some of those items this summer when classes are out!


A sawzall with a metal blade. Straight through the fenders. That'll fix your sentimentality!
Although who am I to say anything? I haven't modified anything on my Ex yet :D
(Subbed;))

Edit:
By the way, I dig your build. It's got a certain look to it.
 






A sawzall with a metal blade. Straight through the fenders. That'll fix your sentimentality!
Although who am I to say anything? I haven't modified anything on my Ex yet :D
(Subbed;))

Edit:
By the way, I dig your build. It's got a certain look to it.

Sure is a good thing I keep my sawzall at work, far away from my Explorer:laugh: I could never bring myself to cut fenders on this thing!

Thank you! I’ve been kinda going for a Forest Service or Military kinda look to it
 






See where I'm going with this? Time on the trails will eventually change your thinking. Never say never! I say at least consider some 33's.


TRUTH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I wish BII was on 37's, it might be someday but my 4.1 gears would laugh at me (I should have gone 4.56 or 4.88, hindsight!)
Wifes FJ is on 35's only because 37's will hit the body mount

33's are big on a Samurai, smallish on an Explorer but we are getting somwhere
35's are perfect for a Explorer sport.... I would aim for that.

Fenders are merely tire covers, HACK AWAY!!!!!! LOL
 






Tim,
Love this build up...I'm acquiring parts for my 1993 right now. I just read through the whole thread, amazing work!

I have a question regarding your Warn hubs. In post #28 you list you used Warn part number 37780 which is a heavier duty version. I can't seem to find these anywhere on Warns application guide. Do you have any more info on this part? Also, if going from a stock automatic hub, are there any other parts of the kit needed or does part number 37780 have everything in it for the complete swap?

I think once you do gears and some sort of locker(s) you'll be amazed at the capability of the truck. With a manual transmission not losing moving momentum in technical areas is a huge plus. Ground clearance will be your only hindrance.
I'm looking forward to what you do next.
 






if memory serves the warn hubs we run on the front of our D35 ttb's were actually made for a Jeep dana 35 full floater rear end kit? or something like that..you might find that part number there

 






if memory serves the warn hubs we run on the front of our D35 ttb's were actually made for a Jeep dana 35 full floater rear end kit? or something like that..you might find that part number there

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Thanks for the link....strange that I can't find that part anywhere on Warns website. So if I order the flange mount lock as described in the Amazon link, I still need to order the Warn spindle nut kit p/n 32720 correct?

The standard Warn hub listed on Warns application guide is p/n 29071 and uses spindle nut kit p/n 32720....just checking to see if that spindle nut is what is used with the 37780 Amazon part.
 






if you are converting from auto hubs to manual then yes you need a spindle nut kit
that is the correct kit
 






TRUTH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I wish BII was on 37's, it might be someday but my 4.1 gears would laugh at me (I should have gone 4.56 or 4.88, hindsight!)
Wifes FJ is on 35's only because 37's will hit the body mount

33's are big on a Samurai, smallish on an Explorer but we are getting somwhere
35's are perfect for a Explorer sport.... I would aim for that.

Fenders are merely tire covers, HACK AWAY!!!!!! LOL

Y’all make me want to make bad decisions!!! I’ll put it this way, new tires and possibly more lift won’t happen for a few years. So that gives me some time to decide! And change my mind several times in the process!

I am leaning towards the two Explorer idea. This one and another one on 37-40s. We’ll just have to see;)


Tim,
Love this build up...I'm acquiring parts for my 1993 right now. I just read through the whole thread, amazing work!

Well thank you! Hopefully the thread provided some useful information! I can’t wait to get gears and lockers in this thing, it’ll be fun for sure!

As @410Fortune mentioned the hubs are technically for a full float Dana 35 rear. They fit the 35 TTB with no issue. I think Warn discontinued them several years ago, so Amazon is about the only choice to find them. Been meaning to buy a second set in case they go away completely
 






Y’all make me want to make bad decisions!!! I’ll put it this way, new tires and possibly more lift won’t happen for a few years. So that gives me some time to decide! And change my mind several times in the process!

I am leaning towards the two Explorer idea. This one and another one on 37-40s. We’ll just have to see;)




Well thank you! Hopefully the thread provided some useful information! I can’t wait to get gears and lockers in this thing, it’ll be fun for sure!

As @410Fortune mentioned the hubs are technically for a full float Dana 35 rear. They fit the 35 TTB with no issue. I think Warn discontinued them several years ago, so Amazon is about the only choice to find them. Been meaning to buy a second set in case they go away completely

Hi Tim,
Thanks for the info. No wonder I couldn't find them on the Warn website. Do you have any idea how much more robust the 37780's are over the current 29071 offerings?

The second thing is tires since we're talking about going up in size....I'm a big supporter of tall skinny tires for the type of terrain I frequent. I can miss a lot of rocks, etc with the skinnier tire. Plus, the power steering doesn't get abused as much because the side to side contact patch is much smaller than a 12.50 or wider size so I expect less friction when turning as slow speeds.

I just talked to the representatives for Kanati tire (Greenball Tire is the distributor). They have a new tire size that should be on the market in about 90 days. It is the Kanati Mud Hog in size 35x10.00R15LT. It has a 2910 lbs capacity per tire. Cool thing is you can use stock Explorer rims if you want to. Look at the second tire down on the list to review the specs:
Mud Hog M/T - Kanati, Light Truck Tires

I've been running the Kanati Mud Hog in size 39X12.50R17LT because I wanted a tall skinny tire that would fit 17" rims and also have an E-load range for my diesel Excursion. The tread is very narrow (outside tread to outside tread is 10") and I've had them on for almost a year. Amazingly round tire (sometimes very iffy when there is this much sidewall) and they balanced out very nicely. No loud growl like traditional mud tires but they do have a higher pitch "zing" sound at anything over 55 mph. What is weird is after about 20 minutes of highway driving they quiet down....maybe the heat makes them quiet down?? Only real downside so far is that if the truck sits for 2 or 3 days you get a pronounced flat slop that takes a couple of blocks to go way. I do tend to run lower pressures on my tires when not weighted down (about 40 psi) so maybe that is contributing to the flat spot issue when sitting.
Just another option for those looking to increase diameter but keeping the width narrow for easier fitment.
 






About all I can say towards the 37780 strength compared to the 29071 is they feel heavier in your hand. Whether that’s means they’re beefier, I’m not sure. I’ve never used the 29071, so I can’t really say how they’ll hold up on trail. I went directly for the 37780 when I swapped to manual hubs and haven’t had a single issue with them. Either way you go though, both option will be better than the auto hubs!


The second thing is tires since we're talking about going up in size....I'm a big supporter of tall skinny tires for the type of terrain I frequent. I can miss a lot of rocks, etc with the skinnier tire. Plus, the power steering doesn't get abused as much because the side to side contact patch is much smaller than a 12.50 or wider size so I expect less friction when turning as slow speeds.

I’m a supporter of tall skinny tires as well. And for the same reasons. For the kind of trails I do with this Explorer I like skinny tires. Don’t get me wrong, I like wider tires too, they have their place for sure.

35x10R15 definitely isn’t a common size, but I like the fact that someone offers it! I did drive a Jeep a couple times that had those Mud Hogs on it. Think they were the 315/75R16 flavor. I was surprised how well the street manners were with them. And you’re right they do have more of a “zing” sound to them! I’ll need to keep the Kanati’s in the back of my brain as a possible option down the road. Somebody will have to pry these Duratracs out of my hands though!
 






Tim,
I just spoke to a Warns tech person and he claims that 37780 is still being made, but is not listed as a product on their website anymore. So I guess that is good news.

I asked the tech guy if there was any difference between 29071 and 37780,....unfortunately he did not know. Warn is definitely not the same company it was 20 years ago before the buy outs and venture capitalist acquisitions. The lack of enthusiasm when representing his companies products was rather disappointing. Is it really that hard to click a computer and look at the dimensional drawings between the two part numbers? I thought tech department meant you were technical or knew who to ask regarding tech questions :confused:
 






Oh sweet! That’s very good to know!!

Sadly it seems more company’s tech departments are that way or are going that way. There seems to be very few helpful and knowledgeable people at some of these companies. Some are great, it just seems like they’re getting harder to find
 






NOBODY IN RANGER / EXPLORER CROWD HAS EVER BROKEN A 37780 THAT WE CAN FIND IN YEARS OF SEARCHING
I'm serious
The old Warn hubs would break, I would hear of one every summer
Somebody on here years ago actually caught a picture (in Moab?) where a Warn 29071 hub exploded and in the pic is shrapnel flying past peoples heads (as it exploded) :) That is a great picture, I think Jefe was spotter in that pic, Ill try to find it.

I have the 37780 on my BII
They do feel heavier
They are stronger
I have V8, ARB lockers, 35" tires..... very strong hubs
 



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So the last few things from the 5 speed swap...

Just a couple more pictures of the shift boot because it’s that awesome! I stuck it on just to break it in before adding a trim ring/keeper for it. Well the boot doesn’t need anything to hold it in place! So I’m not going to worry about a trim ring for now.

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And the finished a-pillar gauge pod. As @gmanpaint had suggested, I got a vacuum gauge for the second hole. It’s not functional right now though. I put it all together and the vacuum line wouldn’t stay in the back of it even though I followed Autometer’s instructions. Think I need a different ferrule... or if anybody has other suggestions?? But hey at least it fills a hole and lights up!
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And like I said before, I knew I would change my mind:crazy: Well sorta anyway... I really do want 33’s and I think I found a solution.

Here’s my thought process... if I’m going to run 33x12.5R15 Duratracs, I would need different wheels and most likely more lift to clear the tires (solely because of the tire width) and to avoid cutting anywhere visible.

So, with that being said... since I would need different wheels anyway, I can go up to a 16” (with 4” backspacing) wheel and run 285/75R16 Duratracs. These tires measure out at 33.1” tall and 11.3” wide on an 8” wide wheel. That’s more in the neighborhood of the tire size that I want.

I know I can fit 33’s with my current lift, it’s just an issue of width. A tire that’s in the 10.5-11.5” wide range will fit with my current lift and may only rub on the inner fender at full stuff and lock. I can handle that!

Yes I’d still be taking the stock wheels off unfortunately. But, they would go into storage. And if someday Goodyear started making the Duratracs (or evening MTRs) in 33x10.5R15 then the stock wheels would go back on.

Changing wheels to get more tire without having to add more lift height. That’s the idea I’ve liked the most so far!
 






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