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To TTB or To SAS, That is the Question.

orhuntnfish

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So I have looked on here quite extensively and would like to know the pro's and cons of TTB and SAS.

I have decided that if I keep the TTB, I will do the 150 outters over the full 150 TTB swap. I just hate the current bearing assembly in the rotors now. I do like the ride.

But I have thought to dump the TTB and put in a solid axle. It seems the solid axles are bit more stable. If I do a SAS, I think I will do one from a 150 in both front and rear with offset rims to widen the stance. What is the latest model I can go on this. Any ideas where to go here. What axles if you disagree with the 150 axles. Jeep? *cough* *cough* Chev?

But what are the pro's and cons. I would like to put a 4" lift on it with some 32's or 33's in the future. I'm not looking to crawl, but am looking to beef up and turn this turd into a better hunting rig.
 



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cybergasm

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seem like to me it would be a waste of time/money to do the SAS if your only planning on 32" or 33" tires and a 4 inch lift.

In this case i would stay with the TTB. It not like you are going to be grenading hubs and bearings with 32's either so i even think F-150 outers might be a bit much too. especailly from the amount of machine work that is required to get em to fit.

In short i guess my opinion is the TTB is tougher front end than people give it credit for.
if it's set up and taken care of the right way.
 






Blacksheep Josh

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If you're only looking for 32's or 33's, stay with the TTB and just build up that system. For the money you'd probably pay for the axle, you could probably buy all the parts you'd need, like coil springs, coil spacers, drop brackets if you need them.

Stick with the TTB, I've seen numerous Explorers that have it built up, and they do fine. One thing you might want to think about to is fabbing up a manual selector for the 4x4. Granted if something goes you can remove the motor and do it manually with a vice grip, but manual selectors look cooler!!
 






Four0Sport

Jack Pewe
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i am very happy with the way my TTB turned out with a 4" lift.. it handles good, rides smooth, and still has enough guts to go up some trails. do some searching and read what others have done, but i do agree for what youre gonna use the truck for, a SAS would be overkill.
 






orhuntnfish

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Well it sounds like the vote is keep the TTB. I will do that then. Now I just have to relocate the posts for the what kind of machining needs to be done to put on the outers. I think there was a mod to the outters for the tie rod ends and the D40 BJ needed turned to fit the D35 hole.

One thing I was wondering, putting on bigger outters, does it widen the stance up front. I would like to get add an inch or 2 in width. If it does that is fine. I will be doing something to the rear anyway. I want put in rear disks and if I get the right axle, the all will be swell.

Mark
 






4x4junkie

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I would fully agree the D35 TTB is definitely a very underestimated axle. I regularly take mine most of the same places people think you need a SAS for, and it seems to do just fine.
You'll find most of the performance limitations you see with TTB suspensions are not so much with the TTB itself, but rather with the lift kits that get bolted onto them. Nearly all can be rectified with a little bit of research though (the biggest thing is to maintain your steering geometry if you lift it, they are finicky about this. The standard drop pitman arms provided with most lifts fail here, and is why complaints about weird handling and tire wear are common).


Putting D44 outers on it won't widen the stance however (it might even narrow it very slightly).
What issues are you having with the D35's bearing setup? I've found they hold up rather well if careful attention is paid while setting up their preload, and you torque the outer locknuts (if you have manual hubs) down good & tight, well beyond the 150ft-lbs most books specify (they need more like 225-250ft-lbs to stay tight).
 






orhuntnfish

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It is just that. Preload. The inner and outter bearings are also only a couple inches apart not allowing for a very strong set up. I have no doubts on the axle. I think the D35 will serve my purpose just fine. I just don't like the hub set up. It is a really poor design from Ford. The D44 inner and outters have more space between them allowing for a stronger set up.

Basically what happened is I swapped the rotors for new ones. The old ones were warpped from bad preload. Took the ride to Leonards off road and had Warn hubs installed over the autos. About a year later went to a local Les Schwab to have new rad bushings and upper and lower ball joints installed. The screwed up the preload and I bought new bearings again and had Leanard fix the preload. He has better tools than I and has more experience. ;) The whole time he complained that most mechanics don't know how to use a torque wrench. lol

I am looking to make what I have more stable. Like considering tossing the A4LD in favor of a 700R4 or a 5-speed. I will dump the motor on the T-Case for something manual. Will refresh the 4.0 or maybe find me a nice 5.0.

Just working on one project on at a time. I think I have the water leak from the sun roof fixed. I fixed the sun roof so it works like it is suppose to. Who ever did the install, botched it up and mis-wired it. Yanked the old "Premium Sound System" out. I have my system installed, but will relocate the amps and 10" sub to where the old stuff was. I am thinking of putting another 10 on the other side.

Got all the panels out of the truck for now and will LineX the floor in Feb. I have door panels to fix and all the interior panels will need cleaned. I plan to Camo out the whole interior.

I found some material for the headliner and the seats that is designed for our wetter environment that is also camo.

Like I said, lots of work, but one project at a time.
 






4x4junkie

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I've never had a lick of trouble out of my D35's bearings, and I run 35x12.50s on it.
However I've always done the bearing setup on it myself.

A buddy of mine had some frontend work done on his and 3000 miles later his bearings were shot, so I know what you mean about having work done on it by others.
IMO, this isn't the D35's fault, its the damn monkeys that crank the bearings down too tight. The D44 is a bit more forgiving of it though, agreed.
 






Four0Sport

Jack Pewe
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when i got my modified inspection not too long ago the guy doin the inspection did the wiggle test on the wheels, you could see a small amount of play. i need to go back in there and re-torque the locknuts. id rather them be slightly loose then too tight and burn up.
 






HahnsB2

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The lock nuts have no effect on the bearing pre load. I hand tighten the inner nut and crank the hell out of the outer, never had a single problem.
 












Tbars4

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Dignan

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One thing you might want to think about to is fabbing up a manual selector for the 4x4. Granted if something goes you can remove the motor and do it manually with a vice grip, but manual selectors look cooler!!

Anyone have a link to a write-up on this? I'd love to do it and I've been thinking of ways to do it, but it would be easier to see how it has already been done by others.
 






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