Too many misfires, and that's just the begining of my tale of woe

[EricJRW]

CEL is on.
Code is P0302 Cylinder 2 had too many misfires within a predetermined time.

Bought new wires. Bought new plugs.
Getting to spark #2 is a major pain.
I do notice the boot seems to flop around a bit more than the boot on #1.
Manage to get it off and it just does look good so decide to replace wire (only) as a first try.

Now my problems start.
First, I decide it's going to be too hard for me to change the spark plug, so decide on just trying a new wire first. Maybe I'll get lucky.
But I just cant seem to get may hand in a position to get the wire securely on the plug.
No matter how hard I push, it does not seat. I'm also wishing I had used a lubricant, or at least a little dish soap.
I wish I had, because now I can't get the wire off. I'm only pulling on the boot, and can't get a good angle.
So I do my best to push it back on (it does not feel that good, still a bit floppy), and hope for the best. It certainly is not going to be worse, and in fact when I drove the Explorer, it did not drive worse, and maybe a bit better, but the CEL is still on.

So here are my questions:
1. If I got lucky with the wire, should the CEL clear by itself? If yes, does it take some time? If no, does it need to be cleared with the reader?
2. Advice needed on how to get this wire off and on, as I may end up changing the plug.
3. Advice needed on right combination of socket and handle to get to this, and the other 5 plugs.

Thanks so much in advance, Eric

PS. Not sure if it's going to show up in my post, but 1999 Explore, with the 4.0L, SOHC

 

[MAS Tequila]

Did you try hoping in from the wheel well.

I don't know what engine you have, but on my 5.0 it's easier to get to the plugs from underneath.

 

[XLTrunner]

On the SOHC, it's definitely easier to access the plugs by removing the tire and then inner fender splash shield. Can't recall exactly how I got to each particular plug with my tools...but, I do remember the #2 & #3 to be a little challenging.

Just clear the code by disconnecting the battery for 30 mins if you don't have a reader.

 

[koda2000]

I found all the plugs on my SOHC to be quite easy to get to by going in through the wheel wells with the splash shields removed. The hardest one to get to was the front plug on the driver's side, because there's a bunch of stuff in the way, but using a universal on an extension got it in/out without much trouble. I can't imagine trying to do all of them from the top.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I did the plugs on a SOHC from the top, 2001 Eddie Bauer, and I had no real issues with all but cylinder 3 with a swivel head ratchet, 3" extension and spark plug socket, now cylinder 3 (rear on passenger side) was a whole new thing.

 

[koda2000]

I did the plugs on a SOHC from the top, 2001 Eddie Bauer, and I had no real issues with all but cylinder 3 with a swivel head ratchet, 3" extension and spark plug socket, now cylinder 3 (rear on passenger side) was a whole new thing.

Yeah, my PO changed 5 of the plugs/wires (apparently from the top) and couldn't figure out how to change #3 so he left the old plug & wire on #3 (with 184,000 miles on the OE plug/wire). He also managed to break the A/C High pressure switch while changing plug #4.

BTW: I meant to say that I removed the plastic inner fenders as the '01 ST doesn't have splash shields to speak of (which is kinda weird, but that's they way they came).

 

[EricJRW]

Thank you everybody. I did not think to approach from below. Going to give that a look, if my plea on NextDoor (neighborhood website) doesn't have any success (finding someone to help).

I will try removing power too. Any chance there is a fuse I can pull (for the computer), rather than messing with the battery?

Thanks again and Happy 4th of July!

Eric

 

[koda2000]

I think it's easier to just disconnect the battery for 10-15 mins.

 

[J_C]

As far as dish soap as a lube, you're supposed to coat the inside of the boot with silicone dielectric grease. Some wires sets even come with some already speared in there. Some others come with a packet of it to DIY.

It's good to disconnect the battery every once in a while just to gain access to clean corrosion off the terminals with a wire brush. I could see it being a pain if it happens a few times and you have to keep resetting radio presets and the clock.

 

[EricJRW]

I think it's easier to just disconnect the battery for 10-15 mins.

Thank you. Disconnected now, just waiting a bit before I see if that worked.

Fingers crossed.

 

[EricJRW]

As far as dish soap as a lube, you're supposed to coat the inside of the boot with silicone dielectric grease. Some wires sets even come with some already speared in there. Some others come with a packet of it to DIY.

It's good to disconnect the battery every once in a while just to gain access to clean corrosion off the terminals with a wire brush.

Thank you for that. I'll pick some up.

Eric

 

[EricJRW]

Well no CEL light. Only ran it a few minutes, but at least computer is reset.

Only changed the wire on #2, but thanks to the info here I feel confident I can now finish the job.

Thank you all!

Eric

 

[MAS Tequila]

As far as dish soap as a lube, you're supposed to coat the inside of the boot with silicone dielectric grease. Some wires sets even come with some already speared in there.


Remember that DE grease is non-conductive, too much and you'll have more problems.

The DE is to keep water out.

Just put it on the boot or better yet just put it on the insulator, white part, of the plug.

Not on the actual connections.

 

[koda2000]

I just use a Q-tip to lube the boot with dielectric grease where it goes over the ceramic part of the spark plug. Seals out moisture and allows you to remove the boot more easily later on.

Tip: Always twist a plug boot before trying to pull it off.

 

[J_C]

Remember that DE grease is non-conductive, too much and you'll have more problems.

The DE is to keep water out.

Just put it on the boot or better yet just put it on the insulator, white part, of the plug.

Not on the actual connections.

I suppose if you put so much in that you couldn't get the boot all the way down on the plug because it builds up a non-compressible mass at the end of the boot, that would be a problem, but it's not a problem to get some on the plug terminal. Friction and clamping force with the boot contact will get enough out of the way.

I never put it on the plug, because then I'd have a greasy slippery plug while I'm trying to put it in, and when possible I do the first few turns by hand on that white insulator to make sure it's not cross threading.

 

[EricJRW]

More great advice!

Thank you all.