Torque Converter Shudder

[Mrlee75]

Well first of all I want to thank those who convinced me to put some time into my 97 EB AWD. It's been a blast the last few months working on it and especially getting parts for it.

I do however have one issue that I don't know how to attack, the torque converter shudder. It always happens around 45-50 mph with OD engaged and light throttle. With OD off it doesn't seem to happen. If I power through at higher revs it's fine, but I'm afraid with so many miles on the EB that I'll eventually do more harm to it.

What's a good fix? ATF flush? Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fix? I've been driving it more now that I have put extra goodies on it, but I really don't want to do a trans rebuild just yet.

 

[n2epv]

I have the same problem with my 97 Mounty (199,000 miles and completely stock). Pulling the tranny out of this truck to replace the converter looks like a major pain. And I didn't like the idea of continuing to drive it as the shudder would wear something out sooner or later.

I added a switch to disable the TCC. There's probably a slight gas mileage loss without it locking and it triggers a check engine light as the ECM knows it's been disconnected. After the tranny is completely warmed up or the truck is in the highway at 65 MPH, I then re-enable the TCC since it doesn't shudder under these conditions.

I have to get ready for work now, but can post back later with the wire that needs to have a switch inserted in it to disable the TCC.

 

[BabyNapes]

Just had the torque converter shudder on my 1997 Mountaineer with 57,000 miles. I bought it with around 53,000 miles and could barely feel it but it kept getting worse. Ford dealer said to give a transmission flush a try since it's a lot cheaper than major tranny work and might save the transmission from needing major work later on. Just had the flush done this morning and all shifts have gotten smoother, I'm feeling the torque converter lock up nice and smooth with no shuddering or bumping. I've only driven it a little bit so only time will tell if it's a long term solution or short term. Fingers crossed that this fixes it.

Service guy said the next step would be pulling the torque converter or "driving it until something goes out," if the trans flush didn't fix it.

On a side note, my trans fluid looked good, but was original from 1997 so I'm thinking it had lost its viscosity from sitting so much.

 

[ncranchero]

Add a bottle of FORD Limited Slip Friction Modifier. That's Fords "secret" shudder stop. They had us add it to our large fleet of Police Interceptors and the shudder went away. Put it in my own PI and it never shuddered again.

If you want the technical mumbo-jumbo read it here "mumbo-jumbo"

Use only the Ford stuff.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Steve-

I've got the same shudder, and I'm considering doing a flush, even though I'm on probably 110k worth of original 2000 trans fluid.

I think I'm going to try a bottle in the existing fluid to see how it is. It makes the ATF more "slippery" for a lack of better term, right? If I do the flush and it doesn't do anything, I'll probably have it flushed and might add a bottle of this to see what happens. Thoughts?

Gotta say- I've had (2) V8's with 'bulletproof' drivetrains, and I've spent multiples of dollars on both of them just on drivetrain crap compared to what I spent in it's entirety on my supposedly weak OHV '95 trans and drivetrain. I don't think I'm impressed yet...

 

[ncranchero]

Personally I don't like flushes. Just my opinion.

We had a LOT of shudder issues on the Vics, most still under warranty.:fire: Ford factory reps were called in and this is the solution they came up with. I didn't believe it either until I tried it. Try it first. You can tell a difference in how it shifts before you get around the block. This is all based on the 4R70W but should work equally well in any automatic.

You don't think Ford would recommend something not proven and pi$$ off someone buying 1000-1500 Fords a year do ya....... .......

Manufacturer: Motorcraft
Item Number: MCXL3
List Price: $4.95
4.5 oz

 

[Joe Dirt]

Going to dump in a bottle and see what happens...

Might have another good solution to the myriad of nitpick issues I'm having with this Ex...

 

[superinstaller]

Use it it works!

 

[Mrlee75]

Thanks! i'll definitely do a flush and add the friction modifier.

 

[rabbit91]

Bump, howd the fluid work out for you guys

 

[bosshound]

Same issue. How did it work out for you ?

 

[bosshound]

Bump ? Did it work or not ? I hate it when I Finally get a thread that deals with my Issue and Solutions are given but Nobody Finishes with the outcome :thumbdwn:

 

[rabbit91]

I just did it a few months ago, full drain, took the pan off, emptied the converter too. Add an extra cooler and temp gauge then filled her back up with fluid 12 quartz. Fixed it no problem, didn't even add the modifier. It did take a couple days of driving for it to completely disappear.

 

[BabyNapes]

Update

Just thought I would post an update on my 1997 Mountaineer. After nearly two years of driving, I am now at 66,500 miles (10,000 since the flush) and still have no trace of torque converter shudder or shift issues. Every now and then the 3-4 shift has a slight bump if driving fairly steady at 35-40 mph (which is right at the upshift or downshift point so I believe it is normal) but it has done that since I bought it as do other related Fords.

Just a note, I did not add any friction modifier to the transmission fluid when I had it flushed. However, if the shudder does return, I will be using the friction modifier as the fluid flush just proves that added "slip" provided by fresh fluid is all it needed to perform correctly. I may even try to friction modifier on my grandpa's truck which has developed torque converter shudder just like my Mountaineer had.

 

[Exploder302]

I have the shudder.

Okay all I've been reading these forums for a long time and I finally joined because I need help. My know it all father always thinks he's right when he isn't. But anyway the trans is shuttering and I saw people used the 4R75W on a flush but do I use one bottle and get normal ATF? What would be a good mix to buy if I flush the trans and TC and replace filter and pan gasket?

 

[radman]

Me 2

I had the same issue on my 99 Eddie 5.0 AWD and was advised by a transmission shop tech that he thought the fluid had lost viscosity. He said to try a can of friction modifier to see if the shudder would go a way or not. If it did it was a sign that the transmission needed the fluid changed and if that did not make a difference then it meant the convertor was going out. The friction modifier did fix it but was only masking the real issue of worn out fluid.

I changed the fluid after the short proof run with the friction modifier (about 100 miles) and I could not believe how smooth the transmission now works. Shifts are better with no sudden harsh engagements while in cruise control on slight hills, it's like a new transmission now.

The car has 99K on it now and had had a transmission fluid and filter change at 45K even though the recommended interval is 30K. This made a believer out of me, change Mercon V every 30K and your convertor will love you for it.

I agree 200% with ncranchero, I do not want anything to do with transmission flushes, why stir up the black crap in the bottom of the pan when you need to wipe it clean while it is off.

There is a magnet in the bottom of the pan to catch steel and cast iron particulates that can float around in there and flushing will not clean that off for you either. One last recommendation is to install a drain plug in your pan while you have it off and the next fluid change will be a breeze with lots less mess. I got mine from Summit Racing and it is very easy to install all you will need is a 1/2" drill bit to make the hole the kit has all else.

Unless someone has been in your transmission the original Ford pan gasket is reusable, no need to buy a new one. It also had steel sleeves around the bolt holes to prevent over tightening.
Mike

 

[koda2000]

yep, Ford transmissions start to shutter when the fluid is worn out. change the fluid with fresh Mercon V and install a new, high quality filter. not a bad idea to drain the torque converter too as that's where the bulk of the fluid is. power flushing scares me, but you can flush out the old fluid (prior to changing the filter) with some hose and a couple of buckets. you'll need around 13 qts to change all the fluid on the V8 trans.

 

[Exploder302]

How do I go about draining this Torque Converter? I have a little bit of work to go on this truck. I've had it for 9 years now and I still love it to death. And I want to keep it for a while more. But I have two broken bolts in the head for the exhaust manifold and its leaking. And getting the egr line off just wasn't happening I couldn't get to the nut and then when I did I had no leverage. Ugh it seems all are going wrong at this point. I appreciate the responses greatly. So I need a new high quality filter and roughly 13 quarts of just Mearcon V?

 

[Turdle]

How do I go about draining this Torque Converter? I have a little bit of work to go on this truck. I've had it for 9 years now and I still love it to death. And I want to keep it for a while more. But I have two broken bolts in the head for the exhaust manifold and its leaking. And getting the egr line off just wasn't happening I couldn't get to the nut and then when I did I had no leverage. Ugh it seems all are going wrong at this point. I appreciate the responses greatly. So I need a new high quality filter and roughly 13 quarts of just Mearcon V?

There is a drain plug on the outside edge of the v8 torque converter. Look through the inspection plate while rotating the engine by hand until the plug faces down.

 

[koda2000]

i suggest a Motorcraft or WIX trans filter. and yes about 13 qts of Mercon V. when you pull the drain plug out of the TC is drains rather slowly. just put something large enough to hold around 8 qts and go have a beer or two.

tip: check your trans fluid level before you start and measure how much drains out. that way you'll know how much fluid to put back in. put in a few quarts, start the engine and then add the rest. be careful not to overfill.