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Torque Monster Header Installation Tip

Cobraguy

Explorer Addict
Joined
February 22, 2008
Messages
2,531
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City, State
Phoenix...Greatest City on Earth
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 EB & 1999 EB 5.0
I had to remove my headers off my car yesterday and was dreading the right side. Screwing around with the two mount nuts so you can raise the engine is without a doubt one of the biggest pain in the butts I've had. Not hard...just takes forever. So when it came down to it, I went looking for another way...and found it quickly.

The two nuts bolt the rubber insulator (mount) to the engine plate. The bottom side of the insulator has just one stud and nut and bolts the insulator to the frame bracket. There are holes in the frame from the factory for access to that nut. Take a 12" extension, an 11/16 (17mm) wobble socket, and snake it onto the nut through the access holes. Unbolt the nut until it's almost off...but not quite. Then raise the engine and slip the header in or out. Tighten the nut. Guys...it took me less than 5 minutes to find it, get the tools, unbolt it, raise the motor and slip the header out, and tighten it back up. You guys who have fought with those two nuts forever are going to want to slit your wrists when you see how quick and easy this is. By the way, this was a 4WD.

Oh yea...I can' resist bringing this up. IMO, never EVER use locktite on an exhaust bolt. NEVER! Especially on an aluminum head! If you luck out and get some stuff that will actually hold in that environment, you are going to hate yourself next time you have to remove it. Use anti-seize. If you properly tighten your bolts, they will not come loose. If they do keep coming loose, I would want to figure out why. Race cars don't use locktite. They use safety wire due to the vibrations. You can buy a slick set of safety wire bolts. But unless I'm running solid motor mounts on my race car, etc, anti-seize and a proper tightening procedure have never failed me. Not once.
 












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