Torque Monster Header (TMH) Gasket Replacement-Pointers needed

[celly]

Maybe people just arent prepping their install correctly, like I said I never had any sealing problems with good ole felpro gaskets but I do make sure both surfaces are even
and clean before I install, use locking bolts and never had problems.
I do know there are a lot of crappy headers for Mustangs which might explain some of the complaints not to mention a lot of people who just throw them on any ole way and expect them to seal .

If you ever saw a pair of TMH up front, you'd see quality all over them. For whatever reason, they're just a ***** to seal. Given that leaky gaskets are a very common occurrence on even stock 5.0 Explorers, the problem could be with the Ford design as much as anything. I had a manifold leak before I did the headers with the stock manifolds. It was very apparent when we took the old gasket out before the TMH install.

I don't know the Mustang game very well, but I got WAY more good information on 5.0 header gaskets by scouring those forums and a lot of folks were dealing with leaky gaskets. Many of them solved the problem by switching to Felpro/Percy's/Remflex. I decided on Percy's because even though they were pricey, they were much cheaper than Remflex when you factored in shipping to Canada. Remflex are hard to find and they gouge us with UPS shipping (which always means brokerage and other fees this side of the border). I figured I couldn't go wrong with Percy's as there are a lot of good documented cases of sucess with them. I'm assuming many of the installs were done with "quality" headers too.

Anyhow, this thread wasn't about questioning the quality of Bob's design. Anyone who owns his headers knows they're first rate. I'm just looking for pointers on doing as gasket change so I'd appreciate it if we could keep it on topic.

Thanks for your input.

 

[celly]

Well, it could be just me. Maybe I am the moron --
serious.

p.s. Jonny, I saw the effort you put into making sure my gaskets were snug. It certainly wasn't your doing. If only I had a little more time to test everything, we could have definitely got the bugs out. If you recall, the problems didn't manifest themselves until the next day when I was back in Milwaukee (700+ miles). On the drive back it drove like a dream and little sign on the problems I have now.

 

[celly]

More good info. Thanks Jon.

 

[Mutineer]

I used the supplied gaskets when I did mine, and here about 3 years later I have no leaks... but it was only a daily driver for a year after I did it.

What I would do is like said before:

Remove plug wires and spark plugs and keep them organized so they go back in the same place (THIS IS A GOOD TIME TO REPLACE THE PLUGS)

***When removing header bolts, BE CAREFUL! If you break these off, it will cost you dearly! NO IMPACT TOOLS!!!!***

remove the two end bolts and thread them back in a thread or two, enough to hold the header without breaking a thread.

then remove the rest of the bolts (I usually keep them organized so they go back in the same spot, but Im alittle OCD, This is not actually necessary)

you should be able to pry the header back enough to slide the gasket out and slide the new one in. this sounds simple, but this IS a 5.0 explorer...lol

The gaskets will likely be stuck to one side or the other, and getting them out without taking the header out can be a pain.

Personally, I would remove them altogether and prep the mating surfaces with a angle sander and cusion pads, because buildup of carbon and remnants of the old gasket will mess up your seal with the new gaskets...

but you said you want it simple, so there it is. if youre careful and get the gasket placed correctly and TORQUE THE BOLTS IN SEQUENCE!!!!!

remember the bolts have a torque spec, I believe Bob Pasquale included this int he instructions with the header.... I dont have mine handy but Ill try to find it.

EDIT: The stock manifold was 30 Ft-Lb..and I believe it was the same or similar. if you use the thread locker supplied or get some blue locktite (high heat stuff) you shouldnt have any backout issues, but dont over torque them...

If you over torque the bolts or torque them out of sequence the flange can warp, and no matter what gasket or header you have, it is very likely that it will leak.

if you need pics and such of mine, heres my thread on this: *Mutineer's Torque Monster Install*

let us know how it goes and if there are any issues...

DRF

 

[Mutineer]

More good info. Thanks Jon.

ditto.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Celly - thanks for the PM to get my attention here.

I too swapped out my header-block gaskets for the shiny Percy's gaskets a few years ago, and a new TMH-supplied single-tube gasket. I don't put more than 4,000 miles on the truck per year these days, but I haven't had any issues with leaking since the replacement.

As was said earlier, I think the biggest issue is proper torquing of the bolts - it's a real pain due to the design of the truck, especially up forward by the A/C compressor. Clean mating surfaces are your best friend.

 

[celly]

Remove plug wires and spark plugs and keep them organized so they go back in the same place (THIS IS A GOOD TIME TO REPLACE THE PLUGS)

I'm lucky. My plugs and wires have 1-2 thousand miles on them. They come off easily and I have a good firing order diagram I hijacked off someone on this site.

The gaskets will likely be stuck to one side or the other, and getting them out without taking the header out can be a pain.

What I'm hoping is that because the gaskets have only been on there for 5 months that they won't be too sandwiched.

Thanks for the other pointers. Much appreciated.

 

[celly]

I too swapped out my header-block gaskets for the shiny Percy's gaskets a few years ago, and a new TMH-supplied single-tube gasket. I don't put more than 4,000 miles on the truck per year these days, but I haven't had any issues with leaking since the replacement.

That's what I like to hear.

 

[Mutineer]

Thanks for the other pointers. Much appreciated.

No Problem

Ive used the Percy's gaskets on a few projects, to include a set of flowtech headers on a 350 that would not seal for anything... The Percys gaskets worked like a charm and I never had another leak till I sold it last year.

 

[celly]

No Problem

Ive used the Percy's gaskets on a few projects, to include a set of flowtech headers on a 350 that would not seal for anything... The Percys gaskets worked like a charm and I never had another leak till I sold it last year.

Sweet! Another Percy's success story. I hope to add my own soon.
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[FlyBoyCoe]

I used the Felpro gaskets by recomendation when I first put my TMH on, but they were likely damaged during shipping and some of the material broke apart, which I think is why I had leaky headers at first. Then I used the gaskets that came with my Torque Monsters with a thin layer of red RTV on both sides of the gasket. Went through and made sure all my bolts were torqued correctly, and haven't had any problems since.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Part of the problem with getting the TMH's to seal up, is the VERY limited space given to tighten the bolts....

What are YOU GUYS using to tighten those bolts?

Ryan

 

[410Fortune]

1/4" drive, SIX SIDED socket, wobbly and extensions
3/8" I believe, one of my trucks the TMH came with 10mm bolts the other is 3/8:

On some of the bolts ONLY a wrench will work, hard to get those suckers tight, but we manage... I check them about every 4 months too


I also start at the middle port and work my way outwards... they all need to be torqued in sequence... its amazing how much tightening one bolt will loosen the others

Copper gaskets sealing up both trucks here

 

[FlyBoyCoe]

I used the same as 410. Used the torque wrench on the bolts I could get a socket on to get a feel for the amount of force needed, then used about the same for the bolts you have to use a open wrench for.

 

[Spdrcer34]

I couldn't get a good bite on some of the bolts, and I messed them up.

I am going to redo my gaskets too, I thinking on replacing the hardware too. I am going to get 12pt. Polished ARP bolts....

Opinions?

Ryan

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I couldn't get a good bite on some of the bolts, and I messed them up.

I am going to redo my gaskets too, I thinking on replacing the hardware too. I am going to get 12pt. Polished ARP bolts....

Opinions?

Ryan

Percy's makes a set of locking header bolts. There is an allen screw in the head that once you tighten the bolts down you turn it and it spreads the threads out to keep the bolts from coming loose.

 

[parad1mg]

to replace the gaskets i'd disconnect the collector bolts on both sides, the egr tube on the header port then continue with the header flange bolts.. i did manage to squeeze in the gaskets once by just disconnecting the header flange bolts from the block and pulling/tugging and wedging the exhaust around to give me some space to work with but disconnecting everything is a lot easier than budging the whole system around..

i had a custom header builder (al's headers in anaheim) to take a look at my install and he said that it's all good with no leaks. it is supposed to sound like tin cans and i should re-toruque them after a thousand miles. i'm on 800+ miles and i do hear some ticking but never did it chug at low speeds..

biggest benefit of these things is that i can reach 60 with just 2000 rpm max in 1st gear then shift to second and second shifts to 3rd at 1500 rpm and so on till i reach OD.. basically never going over 2000 rpm with my daily commute < this saves me a bunch in gas expense..


is there any kind of high temp exhaust system sealant that we can use? :scratch:

true enough that the limited space do cause some issues in properly tightening down the bolts with proper torque numbers can add to the probability of leaks but it would be nice if we can get a high temp sealant that can aid in filling out those minute irregularities between the block, gasket and the header flange.

oh, and that bolt that holds the engine oil dipstick! iirc, it's 9/16ths? i major pita to properly tighten down there is not enough clearance for a socket to go over it.. i'll be grinding down one of the stock bolts to a smaller size or try and re-locate the dipstick bracket so i can fit a normal/smaller bolt there..

 

[celly]

Percy's makes a set of locking header bolts. There is an allen screw in the head that once you tighten the bolts down you turn it and it spreads the threads out to keep the bolts from coming loose.

I considered those as well, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that you can only use them on a limited number of locations because of the tight spaces. Thing is, I have checked my bolts numerous times and simply couldn't find any that were that loose. Then again, those are only the bolts that I can reach easily. For all I know, just one or two accessible bolts are causing me grief.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I considered those as well, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that you can only use them on a limited number of locations because of the tight spaces. Thing is, I have checked my bolts numerous times and simply couldn't find any that were that loose. Then again, those are only the bolts that I can reach easily. For all I know, just one or two accessible bolts are causing me grief.

And they are not cheap either. Black oxide set runs $55-60. Stainless steel set runs $70-75.

 

[celly]

And they are not cheap either. Black oxide set runs $55-60. Stainless steel set runs $70-75.

That was another reason why I didn't order a set when I got the gaskets. The bolts that Bob includes with the set seem adequate so far.