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when you do a TT lift to the front of your explorer, you will need to get an alignment done and you may be told you need to buy the eccentric nuts so your camber can be put back to spec. some explorers had the eccentrics from the factory and some dont. the eccentric nut allows the alignment tech to adjust the distance of the upper ball joint to the frame so that the camber angle of the front tires is right. i did about "2 inches in the front of mine, along with lift shackles and i can clear 265/75r16 BF Goodrich AT's. I did have to get the eccentric nuts (i bought one for each of the four bolts just to have the flexibility and adjust-ability in the future), but they are only like $20 each so well worth saving your $200+ tires from excessive uneven wear.
I am a desperate guy from europe, cause two alignment guys (different shops) can't get the correct camber alignment.
Also have longer shakles and the torsion bars are liftet up for about 1,5".
The camber was a lttle bit negativ after lifting, but not too bad.
I ordered the MOOG one piece design upper control arms for both sides and the MOOG camber/caster kit, cause the bushings were worn out. OK, replaced the parts by myself and before i measured the alignment (positions of the original eccentric washers) of the upper control arms.
After changing the arms with new camber/caster kit (steering wheel ok, no brake fading) drove to the tire-shop for alignment, but the guy couln't fix it.
He attempt everything for 2 hours but he throw's the towl.
At home i verified if it was my fault, but i wash my hands in responsibility.
The next tire-shop alignment guy couldn't fix it neither, but he had some ideas. The elongated wholes at the frame for the control arm bolts are maybe not long enough. So the control arm couldn't get/came out enough for a proper camber.
Now i am searching for some missing degrees for my camber, the caster is ok they said.
Did anybody had similar problems, maybe an approch?
The upper control arm has the "knuckle in spindel" design, so there are no accentric alignment bushings available, like the older Ex/Ranger has. A replacement eccentric MOOG joint would be the solution, but i found nothing.
Found some eccentric control arm bushings, but they don't fit for the Explorer control arms
If anybody could help me to get a little step forward, i would be very happy.
Is there anyway i can lift the front of my truck without a torsion twist. i have a 97 xlt awd and i put warrior shackles on the back but now the rear is an 1 1/2 - 2 inches higher then the front. Can i just buy a body lift but just for the front, like a leveling kit. I dont want to have to buy new torsion bars if i mess it up.
You can't damage the torsion bars by tightening the bolts. If you lift higher than 2 inches, CV half shaft binding is very likely. Any time ride height is altered, alignment is usually required, and camber kits installed depending on the lift distance and camber angles. Highly recommend marking the bolt threads before lifting, should you decide to return to the previous height. Doing a body lift only on the front would be awkward, dangerous, and literally half assed. :mattmoon:
Lift the front off of the ground before cranking the torsion adjustment bolts upward. There is a ton of pressure there.
Adjust the front by what you want, and end by making the front LCA mount bolts the same height. Those should not be different left versus right, regardless of the fender measurements.
I have had mine lowered by around 2.5" for 11 years. One axle was replaced just before lowering it, and it's still there unhurt, with 104k miles on it lowered. The other axle I bought about three years later than the other one, and I had a boot rip on it. That one I got warranted, but it looked fine also.
You can have the front axles survive well at around 2-3" from level.
keep or disconnect sway bars & what size bolt is needed for it to be 1" longer
OK just read all 26 pages & three questions was never brought up or not answered. I have a 98 EXP xlt 4.0 SOHC 4wd it has the (B) Torsion Bars
1) If a AAL & shackle kit & TT is done for a 1"-3" lift is it best to disconnect the sway bars to gain addition suspension movement?
2) The small anti wrap axle shock connected to rear diff. Should that be replaced with one that's 2"-3" longer or just removed & not worried about?
3) Around pg 10?? a guy asked whats the length of the TT bolt. He was viewed more then 50x but never got a reply.
So whats the stock TT bolt dimensions?
Lets say for EXAMPLE: its a 10mm x 50mm x 1.25 Thread Pitch 25.4 mm is conversion for 1".
If I wanted a bolt that's 1" longer does 10mm x 75mm x 1.25 TP sound about right.
A bit of info for doing a TT or basic Front End Alignment at home either it be on gravel, grass or concrete., but flat surface area.
Grab 4 pieces of 3/16" -1/4" steel plate about 12" x 24" & 4 pcs of 4' x 1/4" hard wood dowel stock & cut them into 12" sections this will give you 16 pcs.
Set 2 pcs of steel plate in front of front tires with 24" going left to right & centered in the tires width. Take 8 pcs of 12" cut dowels & placed evenly apart across the 24" section & then take a second piece of steel plate & lay over dowels. Then slowly drive forward until front tires are centered in the 12" width.
You now have a sliding platform to allow the tires to slide inward or outward while doing a TT with out lifting vehicle. This should work for ANY vehicle up to a 1 tn vehicle for doing a basic FEA as well
Its 13mm or 1/2" SAE socket size. I literally raised mine yesterday. I actually bracket race my Sport on the dragstrip so I wanted a bit of rise on the front and to get about -.5" camber so I gained both in less than 10mins worth of work with a few turns of the ratchet