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torsion bar removal

justinf89

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 21, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Hampton, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 xlt 4x4
I have a few questions on my suspension. I've been having a fast knocking on the passenger side for a few months now. Well today I decided to replace the upper control arm to only find out it still knocks. I crawled underneath and when I let the jack down, the ball joint MOVED in the socket! This is the third ball joint to be in that control arm, so I guess it's enlarged the hole a little.

I guess the ball joint moves up and down in the socket and doesn't fall out because of the retaining ring on the top of the ball joint. I always wondered what that was for since it doesn't hold the ball joint in. Guess I'm glad I put it on now.

The real problem is I've been driving like this for months, and that ring could have broken and the ball joint fallen out!

So I guess I'll be replacing the lower control arm since I'm not really interested in an oversize ball joint.

My question is, are there any tips to removing the torsion bar? I've never done it before but I've read up on it.

Also, I read that lowering the front end a couple inches by loosening the bars will net better mpg? I'm surprised the fuel lines are large enough as much gas as it uses. Anything I can do to help.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm doing the work tomorrow.
 



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You don't need the special Ford tool as long as you have a good two or three jaw puller.

First, measure your ride height on a level surface. This is important.

For the actual job, you want to remove the torsion bar bolt covers (4 bolts, 13mm head, torque spec is 41lb.ft).

Then, put the forcing screw in the large lower dimple and the arm on the crossmember. Tighten the forcing screw enough to remove tension from the torsion bar adjuster bolt. Measure the distance from the bottom of the bolt head to the nut plate. Calipers are best. You're going to want to set them back to as close to exact as you can get. Then remove the screw. Slowly loosen the puller and release tension from the torsion bar. Then, if your torsion bar pads are falling out, carefully pull them and set them aside. Otherwise, leave them be.

Now is a good time to clean your torsion bar adjuster bolts threads and the threads in the nut plate. You'll need to put Loctite 242 or 243 (same thing, 243 is simply more oil resistant, it's what I use instead of 242 now)

When installing, you want to make sure the pads are in place, then lift it up as high as you can with your hands and then put the puller on and tension it all the way up. Slide the nut plate in, and thread your loctited adjuster bolt and tighten it back to your same spec. Then simply unload the puller. You may have to pry and prod to get the torsion bar and pad in the exact same spot, but if you're close enough don't worry, they'll sort themselves out.

Cycle your suspension up and down a few times, then just go get an alignment.
 






Lowering your car will only effect mileage at highway speeds.
The faster you go the higher the effect.
 






I prefer to remove the torsion bar without using a puller.

Raise the front of the vehicle and support the frame with jack stands.
Support the lower control arm with a jack.
Have another jack stand ready to support the spindle assembly.
Separate the spindle assembly from the lower control arm.
olcarm.JPG

Remove the torsion bar adjuster cover.
tbseat.JPG

Lower the control arm until the torsion bar tension is released.
Separate the torsion bar from the adjuster.
Slide the bar toward the rear to disengage its splines from the lower control arm.
olcarm2.JPG
 






Your method doesn't work for 4WD without pulling the knuckle off the CV shaft. Moving the knuckle like that with the CV shaft still tightened can cause damage.
 






Thanks for the help guys, that will really help out. Unfortunately, It's been raining all day so I can't get out there to work on it yet. I'll let you know how it goes.
 






Hey all, just rebuilt my front end on my 04 sport trac, replaced uppers, lowers,outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and links, rotors, wheel bearings, and shocks. Scariest part before hand was the torsion bar removal because I had never dealt with them. Didn't trust the puller too much, so went with the other idea mentioned on here with the jack and socket. Much easier, quicker and felt much safer. Just some FYI for anybody else.
 






Searching the threads, remeasured my ride heights. Measures an inch lower (which is ok with me), but put in 2.75 turns to raise it and it didn't seem to change at all. I am taking it for a short drive between each adjustment. Anybody else with any experience with how many turns it takes per inch of difference?
 






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