Torsion Bar Remove/Reinstall '98 Expl | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Torsion Bar Remove/Reinstall '98 Expl

RER_98FRXLT

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June 5, 2011
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Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 XLT
Have some challenges...

Have watched some videos like 1A Autoparts.

Remove:
1. The 2 arm puller slides inboard on the flanges, does not rotate the TB key.
2. Use of bottle jack at puller location lifted the car, did not rotate key.
3. Solved by:
a. Used adjuster to rotate key max possible.
b. Used 5/8 cold roll round to make domed .75"+/- slug to place in the puller allocation.
c. Used bottle jack on bottom of slug to hold key in place.
d. Backed adjuster all the way out of key blocker
e. Was able to easily remove key blocker from rail
f. Lowered bottle jack and disassembled TB and removed

I am concerned about reinstall because as you can see the exact reverse procedure will not work. I have two potential solutions and I am interested in the forums reaction.

1. A long domed 5/8 or 1/2" CRR rod, and using jacks, lower the key at the adjuster allocation on to the domed end of the rod to rotate the key. I have blocks with holes to contain the rod if it slips. Then use the slug and bottle jack to hold the key in rotated position, remove the rod and insert the blocker. Lower the bottle jack.

2. Notch the flanges of the rail so that the puller cannot slide. However, I am concerned that since the point for the screw on the puller is closer to the fulcrum that it may not rotate the key. Also, safe to notch the flanges?

Any thoughts on my ideas or ideas you may have are welcome.
 



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I have used method 1. quite a few times. With some patience and an extra hand it can be done. I had one of the tools to do it (looks like a big C clamp it a nipple on it) but turned out to be a POS. I didn't need a piece of rod to hold it in place though. I jacked it up high enough to slide the adjustment nut/bar/ retainer into place and lowed the jack. Then put the adjustment screw in. I don't remember where I put my jack "extension" on the torsion key though. I found it helps if you jack up the truck high enough and take off the tire to let the lower control arm drop all the way down it takes a lot of the stress off the torsion key (same way it releases tension when you adjust the key with the nut). If it gets really hard take the bolt out of the upper ball joint and the lower control arm will drop even further. That's the way I had to do it when I was by myself.

2. No I wouldn't cut anything down there.
 






Not saying you have to go to this extreme, but when I did my front end and the lower control arm was down that far I could put the adjuster in by hand then jack the lower control arm up into place.

2E98D231-56CC-4D01-BA3C-02BDCE2D4665.jpeg
 






Dropping the LCA is the safest and easiest way to R&R the torsion bars. I rebuilt my 98 Mercury at one time with all new arms and torsion bars. I've never used any device to compress the torsion bar etc, so I'm not sure how much harder that is to do. Disconnecting the UCA from the spindle is five minutes, removing the calipers, shocks, and maybe the TRE or sway bar are no big deals either. When the LCA drops, the tension from the torsion bar drops to nothing fast. You have to use something or a 3rd hand to bring up the LCA, as you by hand put the torsion key and adjuster back where they go.
 






Thanks guys. In my initial removal my bottle jack at the location for the puller did not rotate the key. I was concerned it would not do again when reinstalling. My concerns were unfounded, I applied grease to the top of the key and the part that the top of the key rests in, and it went together slicker than, well you know what. Key blocker went right in to its allocation.

Thanks for sharing your experience and methods.
 






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