Total loss of electrical power

[ksmith0110]

I just bought a 2003 Explorer. 106k, no rust and a rebuilt tranny.
Now for the problem, it has no electrical power but locks. No headlights, interior lights or anything else, just locks. I put a new, fully charged battery in and tried. Nothing. Just locks. Can't even get it out of park, without using a screwdriver. Cables look good.
I am thinking it's got to be something stupid that just isn't popping out at me. PLEASE HELP!!

 

[FR-425]

Main power fuse?

I have to say I'm a little concerned about the "screwdriver bit"???

Please explain.

Does the engine start?

OH wait a minute Me thinks your anti-theft system has been triggered!

If so the usual way to recover from this is to:

1. Lock all the doors and close them.

2. Use the key not the fob or pad if so equipped, to unlock the drivers door and get in.

3. Shut the door and lock it using the switch on the door.

4. Insert key into ignition.

5. Turn key to ignition position DO NOT TURN TO START POSITION.

6. Use your remote entry fob to unlock the doors. If your vehicle requires two presses to unlock all the doors do it.

7. cycle the door locks at least 3 times. Leaving the key on. Note: some models require turning the ignition off and back on in between lock cycles. so if at first you don't succeed repeat all the steps using the alternate method.

8. Remove the key and get out.

9. lock the truck with the fob.

10. Now get back in as you normally would and start the engine. DONE!

The reason this is so specific is to establish "human presence" or more specifically "owner presence" It demonstrates that the person attempting to start the vehicle after a "incursion" is in fact in possession of both the key and the fob and is not under duress by a car jacker or sum such nasty thing.

Final note on the anti theft reset: If you do not have a fob you will need to get one from the dealer. To program a new fob you will need to ask the dealer for assistance.
I know how to do it on my truck but not for your year.
The procedure above is the General method and may not work on all fords, and this is if I'm correct about the Anti-theft being triggered in the first place. But I'm pretty sure. The clue is that only the power locks are working, if they weren't you could not do the reset!

 

[FR-425]

OH one last little thing,

If you are a thief and are using this site to try and get around the anti-theft system, "screwdriver?" Just keep in mind the police can ask this site to provide them with your IP address and then in short order find YOU!

 

[ksmith0110]

I fixed it. There was a main harness by my left foot and it was loose. I tightened it and everything now works.

 

[ksmith0110]

The screw driver trick is in the manual. There's an access plate under the steering wheel housing. You slid it to the side and there's a hole to put a screwdriver in and turn and it unlocks the shifter, in case the battery goes dead. Not to steal anything.

 

[1Aauto]

Welcome to the Explorer Forum:wavey:

 

[FR-425]

OH I see. got it. I'm try'n to think why the designers would want the vehicle to be locked in park when the battery is dead.

Nothing personal, Glad you figured it out!

 

[ksmith0110]

So now that I've driven it a couple of days, I find the the power seat is non functional. I've checked the fuse and it's good. I guess I have to pull the seat out to look at the wiring now. Is there anything that I should pay close attention to?

 

[FR-425]

Hi ksmith,

You will probably have better results if you re-post this question in the "3rd gen stock" forum.

This thread is still in the "new member forum" but is gettin' out of date.
All treads are organized by date so the longer it sits it gets pushed off the first page. So, you will get some new people looking at your threads if you keep updating by starting a new tread for each different topic in the forum that best matches your question. Such as your power seat in "stock" forum, or engine probs in "under the hood" section etc.



Also the custom Google search at the top of the page only searches this site, Very Handy!

The reason you are hear'n from me is that when I responded to this post the first time it, automatically "subscribes" us to the tread and we then get e-mails letting us know that there's a new post in the thread, and it will also be in "my posts" which I review until the thread reaches a conclusion.

Hope this helps ya get the most out of this site.

 

[ksmith0110]

Got the seat fixed too. Found a couple of wires rubbing the track, taped them up and replaced the memory seat fuse (the truck doesn't have memory seats) and it's all good now.

 

[Don Graff]

I just bought a 2003 Explorer. 106k, no rust and a rebuilt tranny.
Now for the problem, it has no electrical power but locks. No headlights, interior lights or anything else, just locks. I put a new, fully charged battery in and tried. Nothing. Just locks. Can't even get it out of park, without using a screwdriver. Cables look good.
I am thinking it's got to be something stupid that just isn't popping out at me. PLEASE HELP!!

Eight years later this post serendipitously seems to solve my problem and more!

Here’s my story and I’m not sticking to it. At least not till I get up tomorrow and everything is still hunky-dory.

I had a number of things wrong like no power windows nor moonroof; all gauges dead; variety of electrical issues too many to list - yet I still can drive with all legal lights.

Then all the sudden it’s got a starting (bad battery?) problem and I need a jump to get home. After I get home next day I try to start it it’s too weak to hardly even turn over - what am I looking at a new starter? Do I try to go find it and bang on it? I’m parked in a terrible place to work on the car.
I figure first I’ll just try to get a fresh battery, I bought it at Costco the date code makes me think they’ll change it out no cost and sure enough doesn’t cost me a dime. I come back with a new battery and install it …. NOW - nothing, worst than before cause I don’t even have a a weak sounding starter! No power, zero of any kind. Plus couldn’t shift it out of park if I need a tow. No power door locks manual only. WTF??? I don’t know what to do but to confirm my voltage on my new battery. Is it dead? I put the leads on it right on top of the installed battery, right to on top of terminal posts - I got 12.6 volts! Again WTF!

I know I have to go online and get on a forum, and now I join to get help. This is the first posted comes up with the keyword search are use. The long and short of it is I use this thread to lead me on what to touch take apart look at look at (for corrosion?) so I copy this thread like with the poster…does nothing, still nothing. Then I disconnect the battery leads and do a reset on the Electronics in general, I’m truly clutching at straws. I don’t know what I’m doing.

As I begin to disconnect the negative battery terminal clamp I realize It’s on top of the black plastic protective cap which I never took off the black plastic protective cap off the battery post! I put the freaking clamp around the plastic cap! I was never making contact! I never had a ground!!! You Gotta be kidding!!!

Clamp off, black plastic cap thrown a mile away, clamp back on, car not only starts right up, but also, now all the stuff that wasn’t working for weeks while I was still driving the car - all that stuff is now working again I got my power windows, power roof, I got my gauges working, and everything else that wasn’t working is working! Everything‘s fixed! Crazy!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! You should use an antioxidant cream on the terminals to prevent corrosion.

 

[Bazz270]

or ford grade dielectric grease

 

[Don Graff]

Welcome to this forum! You should use an antioxidant cream on the terminals to prevent corrosion.

Always do, however noticing during dusk that I failed to remove black plastic battery post cap would’ve improved conductivity