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total new front components on the way

rathrbcruisin

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City, State
Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer 5.0 AWD
Just ordered all the parts from Rock Auto. upper control arms, lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends. 206 bucks and a weekend of fun is on the way. I hope its as fun as it looks. :p:
 



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Don't forget about the camber adjustment bolt kits, sway bar end-links and bushings.
 






check on the camber bolts, and sway bar links were done in september. :thumbsup:
 






Same stuff I did on my '98 4x. What about sway bar bushings? Moog and/or Energy Suspension bushings are your best bet.
 






It's not a bad job. I've done all of that except inner tie rod ends on both of my vehicles.

Do the driver's side first. The camber adjustment bolts are very tight to some hard lines. Look carefully and you'll find at least one hold down bolt that you can remove to be able to move some of the hard lines a little bit. Everything else is pretty straight forward.

After this the passenger side will be a piece of cake. Save the beer for AFTER the road test.

It's easy to get air into the power steering system as you move parts around for easier access. This can cause a violent shake as you're driving at highway speeds. Before you start your road test start your engine and slowly turn your steering wheel lock to lock a few times to help work the air out.

You'll need a front wheel alignment after all of this work.

Have Fun,
 






Thanks for the info, a quick question though, anyone use zip ties on the inner tie rod end boot? I may try to find a hose clamp that would fit, or see if I can get a 1/4" zip tie tight enough.
 






I think I've read where people used a pair of zip ties on there.

Another thing to think about depending on how dirty things are down there. You might want to get some spray on engine degreaser and head down to your local self help car wash.

When was the last time you looked at your brakes? While you're in there it's only a couple of extra minutes.
 






I've used zip ties on ball joint boots, they seem to work fine.

What brand parts did you decide on? I hope they aren't Ultrapower cheepies...
 






Thanks for the info, a quick question though, anyone use zip ties on the inner tie rod end boot? I may try to find a hose clamp that would fit, or see if I can get a 1/4" zip tie tight enough.

I've used zip ties on a CV axle boot (same idea). They worked okay put had to be replaced occasionally, as they would weather and break. You can buy the metal bands at most auto parts stores. I recently replaced the CV joint on my AWD's front driveshaft and I bought a tool to install the metal band with. It was a Lisle brand and I paid about $11 on eBay for it. No more tie wraps for me. Basically it holds the metal band and you use a ratchet or wrench to wind it up tight then bend it over to lock it in.

BTW: Good tip about bleeding the air out of the p/s system. It can be a scary test drive if you don't.
 






I bought moog ball joints and mevotech tie rod ends and control arms.

Brakes were done by previous owner before i bought it. He put new tires and brakes on, then bought a new truck and sold it. It was garage kept and he was the original owner. He said he'd never had any parts replaced on the front, if so they lasted 145,000 miles. I planned to keep this for a couple years and then get something newer but if it stays running who knows.
 






I bought moog ball joints and mevotech tie rod ends and control arms.

Brakes were done by previous owner before i bought it. He put new tires and brakes on, then bought a new truck and sold it. It was garage kept and he was the original owner. He said he'd never had any parts replaced on the front, if so they lasted 145,000 miles. I planned to keep this for a couple years and then get something newer but if it stays running who knows.

That's low miles for a '98. The 5.0's can easily go 300k with regular maintenance. Have you changed the spark plugs? I did mine at 170k because I didn't know if they'd ever been changed (they hadn't and had a gap of about .080). It's easy if you go through the fender wells. Just remove the splash shields. I did mine when I did my ball joints, mainly because they were staring me in the face.
 






Don't use use hose clamps, they'll cut through your boots.
 






Don't use use hose clamps, they'll cut through your boots.

It looks like the replacement Moog bellows comes with zip ties so that's what I'll use.
 












There are some zip ties that can resist better outside - they are usually coded with Black color.
But all in all... seasons cold, hot, they will fail eventually.
 






ok. what do you get with a 200.00 box of fun and a saturday afternoon? A 6 pack evening.

249107_1671171259804192_577664033742622752_n.jpg
 






..a note on zip ties. I used the wide ties, about 1/2" wide and heavy duty. Also, don't tighten them too tight as they can cut through the boot - just enough to keep the boot in place. Especially the metal clamps can cut through the boot (if you choose to use them.)
Also, make sure you use some good quality moly grease on the balls. I think the Moogs come with a zerc fitting already in place.
 






I was pretty pleased with the way everything came apart. This did take me quite a while to do. I worked til i lost interest and figured i had all weekend so that's what it took. most of the day Saturday and finished it up Sunday morning. everything is very tight and quiet now. I replaced the inner tie rods which didn't need to be done. I was feeling some binding in there but they were really tight and seemed good still but i had everything apart so i guess its preventative maintenance. Mevotech parts seemed to be of good quality. Moog ball joints are really nice. I got the ones with the integrated boots. now to the alignment shop. on my test run it went pretty straight with no pulling, steering is slightly off center so i must have it close.
 






right control arm started creaking. sent an email to rock auto for a replacement. :mad:
 



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Charlie T

Hey intelisevil, I just got the Moog Cam adjuster bolts for my 01 Exploder. I've seen an several sites it's pretty smooth on the pass. side but drivers side is a regular "Hillary". Got any good clues for moving the lines out of the way? This one is way off camber on pass. and may not have to put them on left. I will if possible.
 






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