Tow Hitch: Aftermarket or Factory OEM? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Tow Hitch: Aftermarket or Factory OEM?

albator

Active Member
Joined
January 14, 2020
Messages
61
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7
City, State
Bonny Doon, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Mercury Mountaineer
I have a 98 Mountaineer, 4.0 SOHC, 3.55 ratio.

I bought a Curt 13033, from the Amazon Warehouse, for about $60 (about half price).
But it doesn't fit. The upper hole (the ones on the "leg" are about 3/8" too high.
Maybe there's a manufacturing error, maybe that's the reason why it was half-price?

What are my options?:

1. Go to junk yard and find a factory OEM hitch? How do they attach? Compared to aftermarket?
2. Get another one of the same Curt 13033, hoping it would fit?
3. Get the Curt 13106 (different design) instead?
 



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You got a good deal.
Iv'e seen your's listed at RockAuto, say's drilling required.
Measure out the holes and drill them a little lower.
 






Have you checked out the choices and selection on etrailer.com? I've purchased several hitches from them and I have been very satisfied. If the cost is a big issue you can't beat one from a salvage yard.
 






From the etrailer site
13033 Curt Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver
Installation Details C13033 Installation instructions
Weight Carrying Capacity
Gross Towing Weight (GTW):
5,000 lbs.
Tongue Weight (TW):
500 lbs.

Weight Distribution Capacity
Gross Towing Weight (GTW):
6,000 lbs.
Tongue Weight (TW):
600 lbs.


No drilling required
Manufacturer Estimated Installation Time

Tech Tip
No drilling required for installation , Spare tire will need to be lowered or removed temporarily for hitch installation , Vehicles with a full size spare stored under the vehicle will not be able to store spare underneath after hitch installation

If the cost is a big issue you can't beat one from a salvage yard.
Normally, yes, but I found a new hitch, don't remember which of the major brands, at a farm store on clearance for $30 7 years ago. Snapped it up even though I didn't have an Explorer to put it on.
 






My first tube hitch came from eBay. Slight surface corrosion issues, but dirt cheap shipped. That one was sold to a member on here after I found the next hitch.

My second tube hitch came from a flea market. Ran across it, went home home, and looked online to see what it fit. It was the same one as I won on eBay. No hardware included, but I went to a local dealer, and they gave me all needed from their leftover hardware from past installs.

I would keep an eye out on Craigslist, and eBay, if shipping doesn't kill a good deal...
 






Thanks for all the good advice!
Because I don’t have any symptoms, I want to stay healthy, so I’m limiting my contact, so I didn’t want to go to the junkyard.... I just want to stay home and read books by the wood stove.

I think it was a manufacturing defect. Maybe that hitch was purchased, the buyer couldn’t install it, returned it to Amazon, and then I bought it for a low price? Maybe also my truck manufacturing was a bit off too, compounding the issue?

Anyway, the driver side was a bit off, but not much, the bolt fitted through, when I angled the hitch sideways. On the passenger side, I used a Dremel to enlarge the hole on the frame. I was surprised, that steel is rather thin and soft, it was very easy to grind. I used old grinding bits that I use to sharpen my chainsaws, and the truck frame is much softer.

The hitch is now installed. The spare wheel fits perfectly.

One concern I have is the proximity of the shackle. It might touch if the truck is fully loaded. Not sure?
So, I still wonder how the OEM hitch installs? How does it clear the suspension shackles?

If you have a picture of the OEM hitch, please post it, so we can compare.

Ps: I just bought a front hitch, also on sale, for $60.... it’s designed to fit the Gen3, but I’m gonna try to fit it.
 






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