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Tranny flush question.....


BrooklynBay

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When I first saw that part on EBay, I was also thinking about using a standard fitting like the one Dogfriend posted a picture of, or making a homemade setup with either a valve, and a quick connector, or just using one that they sell in the auto parts stores with a hand pump. I have one with a push pump that I use to refill differentials. The OTC model in the picture looks like it's plastic. I prefer to use brass fittings when they have to be installed, and removed a lot of times. Plastic threads tend to get eaten up with constant use on metal.
 


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pkelly

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Does anyone know the size of the transmission fill tool adapter? I saw 1/4" and 3/8" NPT fittings, which can be bought at a local hardware store. Rotunda sells the trans. fill tool for $19.00.
 




dogfriend

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pkelly said:
Does anyone know the size of the transmission fill tool adapter? I saw 1/4" and 3/8" NPT fittings, which can be bought at a local hardware store. Rotunda sells the trans. fill tool for $19.00.
I was speculating about the size of the threads based on the picture of the Rotunda tool. You could either purchase a couple of the barb fittings and try it, or get the recommended tool. You could buy barb fittings for every pipe thread size between 1/8 and 3/4 NPT (way too big BTW) and still spend less than $19. Also, if you buy the wrong ones, most hardware stores will let you return them as long as they are in new condition.
 




daveleeander

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Just changed solenoid block-know size of adaptor

I just got through changing the solenoid block on my 02 XLT, with the 5L55W and the adaptor fitting is a 1/8" pipe thread. I would show you a picture of what I used, but I can't figure out how to. Sorry


Dave
 
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BrooklynBay

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Thanks for letting us know that it's a 1/8" NPT thread. Glacier originally thought that it was 1/8" NPT on the previous page. I'm surprised that Ford would put such a small fitting on it, since it would be very hard to pump a lot of fluid through such a small opening to refill it. I'm sure that it must take a lot longer to refill than a transmision with a regular dip stick filler tube.
 








tiler321

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help needed to take out vacuum modulator

I tried to move the shield out of the way but no go. Do I need to drop the trans pan to move the shield . If so I might as well change the fluid and filter
this is on a 93 explorer with 2 wheel drive
 




BrooklynBay

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BrooklynBay

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esmarts

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I have just preformed this the other day with a big success. I know the new fluid gets contaminated but when my fluid was almost burnt completely it really helped me out to get things going smoothly again.
Thanks
 




ThreeQuarter

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Easy, clean, cheap

I performed the shadetree tranny flush last night--worked like a charm. Because I don't know the history of the vehicle (and because I like to be thorough), I dropped the pan & replaced the filter, AND flushed the fluid. After replacing the pan I added about as much fluid as was lost from the pan (~5 qts) through the dipstick tube. Then I disconnected both tranny cooler lines behind the bumper. I left the return line open, and put a 1/2" ID clear hose on the pressure side (pumps fluid toward the cooler). This hose fit snug and didn't need clamping, and was long enough to reach into a 2.5 gal jug sitting beside the frt driver's tire.

As everyone else has said, I just cranked the motor and let it run long enough to put 1 qt of old fluid in the jug. Then I killed the motor and added 1 qt through the dipstick tube. Repeated that step 10 times.

Procedure used 14 qts of fluid total. It does waste some fluid, but still costs much less than Firestone ($189 for a filter change AND fluid flush--plus tax?). The shadetree method cost me less than $75, most of that in fluid.
 
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01slvrsprt

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I want to try this but im at a little delema. My 01 sprt has 120,000 miles on it, I bought it with 75,000. I havnt done anything with the trans fluid and I dont know if it was ever changed before I bought it. I know there is a risk in changing it after 90,000 miles, but now my trans pan is leaking and I have to change it. Does any 1 have any insight on what the risks are in doing a trans flush now since Ill be draining 1/3 of the fluid when I change the gasket?
 




Gator Jeff

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I want to try this as well, but I have a few questions.

  1. On the cooler lines, which side is which? Return is driver's, pressurized is passenger's or vice-versa?
  2. I've seen comments that say the return line expelled fluid and one that just says disconnect. Is there any consensus?
  3. 3. I would change the filter as well of course. Should I replace the fluid that comes out with the filter before I start the flush?
  4. 4. Any truth to the stories I've heard about changing the transmission fluid on an old transmission can result in having "4 neutrals" as I've been told.

Thanks in advance. I don't know why, but I'm having trouble wrapping my head around this.
 




dogfriend

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I want to try this as well, but I have a few questions.


[*]On the cooler lines, which side is which? Return is driver's, pressurized is passenger's or vice-versa?
The easiest way for me to remember: the ATF runs through the radiator from top to bottom; the top connection is coming from the trans, the bottom connection is the return to the trans.

[*]I've seen comments that say the return line expelled fluid and one that just says disconnect. Is there any consensus?
I was surprised when I did this that fluid came out of both lines for at least the first few seconds. I think that backpressure will clear the return line as you first start the truck. Also, some people have speculated that you can "suck" new fluid into the return line - this is false, the pump pushes fluid thru the cooler and does not suck it thru the return line.

[*]3. I would change the filter as well of course. Should I replace the fluid that comes out with the filter before I start the flush?
Yes, drop the pan, replace the filter and try to replace the same amount that you drained out from dropping the pan. That way you have already replaced about 4 qts of the 10 qt capacity. You also should try to avoid running it low; after you pump out a qt, stop and pour in a qt to replace it. Some people have advocated adding an extra qt before draining the first one out - I think this would work too because I was down about 1 qt after flushing with about 6 or 7.

[*]4. Any truth to the stories I've heard about changing the transmission fluid on an old transmission can result in having "4 neutrals" as I've been told.
.
I think if your tranny gives up because you changed the fluid, it was about to give up anyway. ;)
 








adamwarner

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Will mixing brands of fluid do any harm? Im not sure whats in there now.
 




dogfriend

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Will mixing brands of fluid do any harm? Im not sure whats in there now.
I know that for the synthetics (Mobil 1 and AMSOil) they used to state on the bottle that they were compatible with other ATFs both syn and dino. You are going to get a little bit of mixing of old and new fluid, no matter how you do the change (even with the flush machine at the dealer/trans shop), because of the old fluid that remains in the torque converter and the valve body. This should not be a problem because the new is compatible with the old.
 




Rayz2000Sport

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Someone should be kind enough to do a walkthrough on this one with Pictures! That would help everyone a great deal I am sure. I am very interested in doing this, I dont think my fluid has ever been changed, but I am a bit leary about messing with my transmission when I am not totally sure about it.
 


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johnnym

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made a new post
 
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