Transfer case motor problem?

[quasarsky]

Re: Transfer case motor problem? Its been fixed! but it wasn't the t/c motor!!

I have a 98 ford explorer xlt automatic, sohc 4.0 6 cylinder. when i slow down i hear an awful noise sometimes (lately more frequently) that sounds like an electric motor whirring really fast. the only thing under the car there is the transfer case motor. its rusted pretty bad. also my 4wd drive low light does not come on when i switch it, only when its in 4 hi does the light come on. both lights come on when the car starts along with the other lights in the dash display. a mechanic said all 4 wheels were spinning when he put it in the lift, but it was in 4wd automatic. i'm convinced it needs a new motor. whats the worst that could happen if the motor burns out completely? will i still have 2wd? (i never use 4wd). also another transmission mechanic said the transfer case motor wears out from not being used. weird huh? please let me know.

-chris

trasnfer case oil checked, pink, and no metal in it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I would suggest that you read the sticky about rebuilding the motor located on the top of the transmission forum. It is packed with very useful information, and detailed diagrams.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here is the link to that thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123542

 

[gijoecam]

It's not going to be a motor issue. We have to start with the basics here, so don't be insulted by my elementary questions.

First, to engage or disengage low range, you must be stopped, in neutral, with your foot on the brakes, THEN flip the switch to 4 low. You should hear/feel the low range gearset engage/disengage.

Now, assuming that's not happening, we need to look into it a little further. It could be as simple as the fuse for the transfer case shift motor. That would be in the power distribution box under the hood, and is a 20A Maxi fuse. As for the transfer case wearing out from not being used, run, run away fast. Find a mechanic that has a clue.

When exactly do you hear the whirring noise? Under what conditions? Driving? Stopped? Idling? In park? In gear? Speeds? Accelerating/decelerating?

Let us know so we can help narrow it down...

-Joe

 

[quasarsky]

i hear it when i'm driving (45 and up mph) and i start to apply the brakes. its sounds just like an electric motor whirring really really fast. a different mechanic (from the one that examined the transfer case while driving) said it sounds just like an electric motor whirring really fast. as soon as i hit the gas alil the noise goes away. if i remove the pressure on the gas it starts back up, so i have to apply more gas. usually i slow down by easing off the gas and the noise doesn't happen. the mechanic said its either a tcc solenoid in the transmission sticking or its the motor for the transfer case. he wasn't really sure cause he wasn't a transmission expert but that would be his guesses. i'll go check the fuse. a few times with people listening i let the car roll to a stop and the noise continued all the way until it was almost stopped before the noise stopped. at lower speeds (30-35-40) sometimes i hear the noise but its not as loud but i can tell its the same thing whatever it is making the noise. another mechanic said its the gears in the transfer case grinding but it sounds like a electric motor whirring really fast. i know what a dying transmission sounds like (poor tercel lol) and it doesn't sound like that. u would think i would hear the noise upshifiting. not just downshifting.

if it is the transfer case motor and it completely burns out (it is very rusted and old looking) would my regular 2 wheel drive function with no problems? i should get my new transfer case motor this friday. i won it off ebay for 80 bucks shipped (better than the 140 they wanted in a auto shop). i could have repaired it with some of the guides but i don't feel real comfortable with doing that. so i may try to repair and just use the new one if that fails.

 

[quasarsky]

ok i couldn't check the hood cause its not opening. i think it needs more oil or whatever my lil brother put on it before to get it working. anyways

i tried in neutral holding down the brake and i heard it shift and shift back. i'm at a total loss. perhaps it is a tcc solenoid sticking? and not hte motor?

 

[gijoecam]

I'm not a mechanic and I don't play one on TV. I have, however, heard that there are a few shady ones out there... I'm just some schmoe off the street who's learned a few things around here over the years.

OK, now that I'm done with the disclaimer, I think most people on here would agree with me: The conditions you describe don't sound like a TCS motor. It sounds, to me, like either a bearing issue in the rear end, *possibly* a bearing issue in the transfer case, or a bad u-joint among other things. At the very least, I think most would agree that your problem is probably NOT the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid or a transfer case shift motor. If you want to convince yourself it's not the motor, pull the fuse I mentioned. If the noise then goes away, then I'd say *maybe* the motor was your problem. I suspect your problem will still be there.

Generally, if the TCC goes (and 410Fortune or IZwack can confirm this for me) the torque converter won't unlock when you let off the gas, and the engine will stall when you stop. Typically this fault should throw a code as well. (*I think*) I'm no transmission expert by any stretch, but I don't think your problem is there either.

It really sounds like something much more simple to me.... I'm thinking u-joint or rear end (pinion) bearing issues. Unless the mechanics have seen something with your specific vehicle I haven't, I would be leery of their diagnosis.

In cases like this, I recommend people try and get the diagnosis in writing, as well as an agreement that they'll pay for the work, so long as the job actually fixes the problem. If I authorize them to replace the shift motor on my truck because they told me it would fix a problem, I expect replacing the motor will fix the problem, or else I shouldn't have to pay. I should not have to pay for them to trouble-guess at my problem.

Now, for a second opinion, I would talk to a good independent transmission or driveline shop about the problem. The best way to find a good one is to ask around at the local performance shops. They generally know the shops that do good work, and know what they're doing.

Good luck!

-Joe

 

[quasarsky]

thanks for the info. the one mechanic who told me not using the transfer case will break it said that first the noise was the motor then said the noise was gears grinding in the transfer case. umm contradiction? LOL. electric motors don't sound like gears grinding. not by any stretch. i will try and find out if its the other things. how much does a pinion cost to fix, or a ujoint? or a bearing? where is the bearing in the rear end? i don't think you mean the tires.

thanks so much everyone for the replies and information i feel like i'm acutally getting somewhere LOL

 

[gijoecam]

OK, stop the presses.... you said that it sounded like a motor spinning... does it sound like a motor spinning or like gears grinding? Gears grinding is a possibility. That's not my department...

Paging IZWack, Paging Dr. IZWack.....

-Joe

 

[quasarsky]

it sounds like a motor spinning. what i said was the mechanic first said it was the motor then said it was the gears grinding. he was contradicting himself. i'm saying he wasn't a very good liar LOL .

u-joint or rear end (pinion) bearing issues, or

u know when go over speed bumps at low speeds the car makes a noise that sounds like the shocks are bad. could that be the rear bearing issues u meant? how do i fix that? and when i go over them at low speed the car rocks a whole lot. and one more thing. let me go take a picture if its what i think it is!

 

[gijoecam]

OK, you had me confused for a bit there with the references to the grinding...

A whining noise, I'd put my money on either a u-joint or a pinion bearing on the rear differential. A bad pinion bearing can cause premature wear to the pinion and ring gear, so it's not something you want to let go. U-joints don't heal themselves either.

-Joe

 

[quasarsky]

thanks. how much do those usually cost to fix?

is it normal for these problems to be intermittent?

 

[quasarsky]

cause i dont' hear it all the time.

 

[BrooklynBay]

AutoZone has 2 types for your vehicle. The 3 month warranty type is $12.99, and the one with the year warranty is $15.99. http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroke...edQuestion&Parameters=|~REAR+SHAFT&PageSync=5

 

[quasarsky]

link doesn't work. is that for the pinion or uv joint? labor and parts?

 

[BrooklynBay]

I just tried that link. It worked before, but it said that there is a problem with their system. That sounds like something AutoZone would say. The link was for the rear U joints. There were 2 types listed. The prices were for both of those U joints. It wasn't for any labor charges.

 

[quasarsky]

ok

i finally got a mechanic to confirm its the transfer case motor trying to engage the forward drive shaft. now is the noise the motor (coming from inside the motor?) or the drive shaft trying to engage? my lil brother is going to replace the motor tmw. but he's going to check the ground cause the case could be shorting out and that is what may be triggering the motor to try and engage the driveshaft. i dunno. weird!

 

[quasarsky]

um could there be any damage to the drive shaft from this? i think it was the transfer case motor making the noise. nothing else

 

[gijoecam]

Once again, the SHIFT MOTOR DOES NOT ENGAGE THE FRONT DRIVESHAFT. The shift motor engages and disengages the low range gearset.

The motor ground wouldn't cause anything to happen. The GEM grounds the transfer case shift relay which triggers power to the motor.

Good luck

 

[quasarsky]

so what is the noise the motor is making then? cause it definitely is the motor making the noise. ?