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Transfer Case Noise

mountaineergree said:
Since I dont have BL room above the case is already tight, I dont know how I am going to lift that thing up any............


I looked agian, and the only close spot is where the two tabs are on top of the case. I will have to clearance that with a BFH, but Id have to take the case out. Ugh. Which means I have to take the gas tank bracket off, seats, console and access pannel. :mad:
 



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I din't know if this is any thicker, but you are welcome to it.
 

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  • trans mount.jpg
    trans mount.jpg
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I cant really tell if it is or not, I may have to go look again with a flashlight-

I wonder what a urethane mount costs? It may be worth the expense given the extra weight of the case, I don’t know.

I appreciate the offer and may take you up on it.

BTW, Ive got my front shocks off if you still need em..

Jamie, I was looking at the case, and in order to put a brace or something on there, it would have to hang down below the frame I believe. The case is huge!
 






After a second look, the mount looks a little bit taller than mine, I wonder if it would compress as much as mine is with all that weight on it?

I figure the case weighs ~100 lbs. The AWD case weighs around 60, and I know the 4406 is far heavier, I put it in by myself!
 


















mountaineergree said:
I need to know where to find a trans mount-a heavy duty mount, not just a stock replacement.

You should be able to build one, or at least a spacer
 












Its not the transmission mount. Even if it was sagging, the angle of the transmission would only change maybe 1 degree.

Your front pinion, as I said, is not right. Its meant for a CV/double-cardan. I looked at your pictures and it looks like its made for the CV/double-cardan.

Just compare the angles in these two images:

driveshaft2_001_Small_.jpg


driveshaft2_002_Small_.jpg
 






IZwack said:
Its not the transmission mount. Even if it was sagging, the angle of the transmission would only change maybe 1 degree.

Your front pinion, as I said, is not right. Its meant for a CV/double-cardan. I looked at your pictures and it looks like its made for the CV/double-cardan.

So your fairly certain a double cardan conversion will fix my noise problem?
The superlift kit calls for a double cardan setup when the kit is installed, I assumed that it was because of the pour design of the cv style stock driveshaft. I thought that the regular style u joint could handle the angle but I guess not.
 






mountaineergree said:
The superlift kit calls for a double cardan setup when the kit is installed, I assumed that it was because of the pour design of the cv style stock driveshaft.

A double cardan is per say a "CV". A double cardan is just a different method of achieving the same effect as a typical "CV" (assuming the U-joints are properly phased) like the CV in the front half-shafts for the IFS system.

With the fact that a double cardan acts like a CV, the angles and such are also the same for both.
 












If the superlift requires a double-cardan, then thats what I would do.
 












IZwack said:
If the superlift requires a double-cardan, then thats what I would do.

Well that's what they recommends. They say something like the stock driveshaft's life is considerably shortened, and their $350 part is recommended. I thought having the different Tcase would eliminate this need.

I still don't get why the sound goes away in 4hi?
 






I did a little research, the full size bronco uses the same U joints as my F150 front d shaft. If I can find the part I want, I think I can make it work. I found a thread on FSB that had a good picture of what I want

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76774

k1.jpg


Im worried about room between the t case flange and the crossmember for that extra piece:
driveshaft_001_Small_1.jpg

See how close the crossmember is to the flange?
I think the yoke would be close to hiting, but I dont know for certain.
 






WOW Glad someone else has this exact same problem. Same thing is going on for me. I beleive its the front pinion angle also. I am having a shimmy off the line from my rear driveshaft but lucky me I found a 97-98 expo with a double carden rear driveshaft, the only problem is I have to shorten it about 4".
 






personally I consider new/custom driveshafts a part of these conversions and lifts

Every time I have swapped engines, transmissions, lifts, etc I have modified my driveshafts to work with my application.
My BII has CD style shafts front and rear, no vibrations.

If the expedition shafts I have for my 4406 conversion dont fit just right I will have them modified to work. My local shop doesnt charge too much, basically to build an entire new CV style slip yoke rear d shaft is just under $200, usually same day service.
 






I cant understand why everyone is having these problems. I guess i was lucky. I never knew the 97-98 expo has a d-carden rear.
 



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the two people having these problems have drop bracket style lift kits
 






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