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Transmission Band Adjustment Specification Chart

BrooklynBay

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Band specification chart.

A4LD:
All Intermediate bands are single wrap. Single wrap band = 2.0 turns back.

1990-1992 Overdrive bands are double wrap, except in mid 1992, which went back to the single wrap band. Double wrap band = 3.5 turns back.

4R44E/4R55E 5R44E/5R55E/W/S/N:
Single wrap bands.
Overdrive band = 2.0 turns back.
Intermediate band (1995-1998) = 2.5 turns back. All other years 2.0 turns back.

The procedure for adjusting the bands is as follows:
Loosen the nut on the adjusting stud while holding the stud in place. Set your torque wrench to 10 ft.-lbs. (120 in.-lbs.), and tighten the stud. When it reaches 10 ft.-lbs. refer to the above specifications to set the proper amount of turns back. Hold the stud in place, and lock the nut to 35-45 ft.-lbs.
 


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Glacier991

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I'll see about doing a photo post of the process, or if someone wants to save me the time and effort... be my guest. (g)

DO NOT USE A FOOT LB Torque wrench to do this. ONLY use an inch LB torque wrench. You can pick them up at Harbor Freight for around $20 or so.

I also recommend new sealing nuts on the bolts.

Thank you Brooklyn Bay!
 




BrooklynBay

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This is the Harborfreight 1/4" torque wrench(#2696):
02696.gif

Here is the link to their website: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2696
There is also a PDF with more information in this link: http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/2000-2999/2696.pdf
 




Glacier991

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[Note: The following is copied from the A4LD Rebuild Diary to here for ease in finding it. This is the procedure as shown on a transmission out of the vehicle.... the actions are the same whether the transmission is installedor not, but the view will be different on your back underneath the car. WARNING.... do not back out the bolt more than a few turns or the adjuster will fall out of position requiring you to fiddle and curse getting it back into position!]


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

The original article is below:


There are 2 adjustable bands - the intermediate and OD. The process is exactly the same for both - up to 91, with the double wrap band - (abandoned by FORD in 92) there was a difference, but since we are not going to use the double wrap, it is IDENTICAL for both). One end of the band is held by the apply lever (remember the "A" levers?) and the other is held by the adjusting bolt band end. Here's a look from on top of the OD band clearly showing you both. On the right is the apply lever end, on the left the adjusting bolt end...note the beautiful artistic arrows!

15286Dscn4943.jpg



I snugged the bolts by hand - I had wire brushed and cleaned them and ran a tap into the threaded hole so I had a nice easy time of it and got accurate readings with the torque wrench...

15286Dscn4937.jpg


I then tightened both to 15 ft lbs.... my thinking was to slightly overtighten to make sure any "slack" anywhere was taken up. Then I loosened them and tightened them to 10 ft lbs (120 inch lbs) using a 1/4 inch torque wrench. THEN, backed each off exactly TWO TURNS (NOT 3-1/2!!). Turns out a 8 point 5/16's socket fit the bolt end perfectly...

15286Dscn4938.jpg


Lube the gasket on the locknut with vaseline....and carefully work in onto the bolt, not changing the bolt position....

15286Dscn4940.jpg


Holding the bolt from turning, use a 19mm socket to tighten the locknut to about 30 ft lbs. (a good tight).

15286Dscn4941.jpg


Repeat for the other band.

Here are som pictures of the anchor and apply sides taken from under the trannie. OD first...Anchor:
15286DSCN4973.jpg


OD apply side:

15286DSCN4976.jpg


Intermediate anchor side:

15286DSCN4972.jpg


Intermediate apply side:

15286DSCN4975.jpg


Ok... that about covers the bands....

BANDS ADJUSTED!!
 




BrooklynBay

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Glacier991

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Digital cameras are cheap these days. IMHO...A picture is worth a thousand words and a sticky OUGHT to have pictures.... and now this one does!

Your info fills a needed void, thanks.
 




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The AOD, AODE, and 4R70W do not have band adjustments.

The AOD, AODE, 4R70W, C3, C6, A4LD, 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, and 5R55E do not have any adjustment for the low/reverse band.

The C4, and C5 low/reverse band is adjustable. The adjustment screw is tightened to 120 in.-lbs. (10 ft.-lbs.), then backed off 3 turns. The locknut is tightened to 40 ft.-lbs (35-45 ft.-lbs.).

Intermediate band adjustments on the C3, C4, C5, and C6:

All models have their adjusting screws tightened to 120 in.-lbs. (10 ft.-lbs.), but the turns back are different.

C3
1980, and earlier models are turned back 1-1/2 turns.
1981, and later models are turned back 2 turns.

C4
1-3/4 turns back.

C5
4-1/4 turns back.

C6
1-1/2 turns back.

This information was obtained from the Haynes Ford Transmission Overhaul Techbook # 10355. Page 6-6 states that normal wear of bands requires a band adjustment every 15,000 miles, or in situations where there are symptoms of sluggish shifts, delayed shifts, slipping, and in extreme cases a loss of drive.
 




rangerbury

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Hey Guys,

This weekend I'm going to re-torque the V/B bolts on my 4R44E. I figured while I'm in there I'll do the band adjustment. My question is: which band is which ? In other words, where are the adjusters located in relation to front/rear & left/right of the transmission and which one gets backed off 2 turns and which one gets 2 1/2 turns ? I'm also going to run the Seafoam Trans-Tune in there for a few miles before I dump the fluid. Any thoughts?

Thanks for a great forum.
 




BrooklynBay

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The adjustments are made outside of the transmission on the driver's side of the transmission, so you could do it anytime. The first one is the overdrive band, which is the closest one to the bell housing. The second one is the intermediate band. That is located mid way into the transmission. The last one has no adjustments. The servo is located inside of the pan, unlike the first 2 which are located on the passenger's side of the transmission. As stated in the first post:
4R44E/4R55E 5R44E/5R55E:
Single wrap bands.
Overdrive band = 2.0 turns back.
Intermediate band (1995-1998) = 2.5 turns back. All other years 2.0 turns back.
 




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Many thanks Brooklyn. I'll follow your lead.
 




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trans

Guys,I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this but here goes anyway .I saw a post some time back on how to change trans oil without a big mess, at the end of that post I can't remember who it was suggested that you could change it by using 2 buckets one full of new oil and the other empty ,my question is as he suggested is that the new oil would be drawn or sucked up into the trans .The reason I'm wandering is that I would like to completely flush my coolers as I have 2 on my girl and my tranny as well,does this idea work ? as I have heard different views
 




BrooklynBay

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This thread is about adjusting bands, not flushing coolers. That other thread you are referring to is about flushing ATF from a transmission. If you want to only clean your cooler, then you have to use a cooler cleaner spray such as M465KD Transcool cooler cleaner spray.
 




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BrooklynBay

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VTOSS_Man

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BrooklynBay said:
The adjustments are made outside of the transmission on the driver's side of the transmission, so you could do it anytime. The first one is the overdrive band, which is the closest one to the bell housing. The second one is the intermediate band. That is located mid way into the transmission. The last one has no adjustments. The servo is located inside of the pan, unlike the first 2 which are located on the passenger's side of the transmission. As stated in the first post:
4R44E/4R55E 5R44E/5R55E:
Single wrap bands.
Overdrive band = 2.0 turns back.
Intermediate band (1995-1998) = 2.5 turns back. All other years 2.0 turns back.
This may be a dumb question, but how do you know when it's time to make a band adjustment? What symptoms would you feel?
Does the transmission simply start to slip a bit?

Thanks
 




BrooklynBay

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Sometimes a code will get thrown if the band is either broken, or out of specification. It will also feel like the 2nd, and overdrive are a little delayed, and not positive feeling. Sometimes this could be mistaken for a rotted piston. First start with the band adjustments before replacing the pistons. There are other factors involved which could make the transmission have similar symptoms. Low EPC pressure could cause weak shifts. Bad sensor inputs from the VSS, BOO switch, and TPS could create a loss of overdrive, and TCC lock up. A bad governor could cause a 1-2 shift delay when it is cold. A bad modulator could cause shifting problems as well.
 




VTOSS_Man

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BrooklynBay said:
Sometimes a code will get thrown if the band is either broken, or out of specification. It will also feel like the 2nd, and overdrive are a little delayed, and not positive feeling. Sometimes this could be mistaken for a rotted piston. First start with the band adjustments before replacing the pistons. There are other factors involved which could make the transmission have similar symptoms. Low EPC pressure could cause weak shifts. Bad sensor inputs from the VSS, BOO switch, and TPS could create a loss of overdrive, and TCC lock up. A bad governor could cause a 1-2 shift delay when it is cold. A bad modulator could cause shifting problems as well.
Thanks. The search function didn't turn up the symptoms or when you should adjust the bands.

My truck occasionally has a very slight hesitation under load (going uphill or driving at highway speeds etc.). Truck has 138000 KM on it. Recent tuneup (plugs, cleaned MAF, new thermostat, airfilter). Transmission fluid changes every 50000 km or so. No codes or CEL's. Just a very occasional, slight "hic-up" under load.

Due for a tranny fluid change this fall. I'll adjust the bands at the same time.

Thanks
 




BrooklynBay

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I just wanted to answer your question with additional information from post # 7 above:
This information was obtained from the Haynes Ford Transmission Overhaul Techbook # 10355. Page 6-6 states that normal wear of bands requires a band adjustment every 15,000 miles, or in situations where there are symptoms of sluggish shifts, delayed shifts, slipping, and in extreme cases a loss of drive.
 




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How can you be certain what year trans you have if you're not sure? I'm getting a salvage yard trans out of a 92 Ex and was planning on adjusting the bands, but not sure if this is the original trans and don't want to just assume that it has the single wrap band.
 


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BrooklynBay

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Sometimes there could be a production date, or a label on it. A while ago, I purchased an A4LD transmission from the dealer. It was supposed to be an 88, but it had 86, and 87 hard parts. The valve body has 2 solenoids, so that was for the 88. The previous models only had one solenoid. The newer ones have an upgraded case with a rear vent which is made for a hose. The inner Allen head screw hole is a little different too.
 




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