Solved Transmission Common Sense If You Have A Problem....

[1karkrazyguy]

Hi to all the Explorer Forum members old and new,

Here is a little of what I have learned in the last 3 weeks about my FORD 4r55E automatic transmission and this also applies to any automatic transmission.

The transmission is pretty rugged, easy to diagnosis with the correct FORD FACTORY NGS or ROTUNDA SCANNER TOOL and easy to rebuild if you're a really good shade tree mechanic with good tools.

Be patient, be methodical, be smart and ask questions and make people explain things to you when you don't understand something and make mechanics put everything in WRITING concerning diagnosis and potential repairs and repair costs!

If you are going to ask the Forum members for help diagnosing a problem and to point you in the right direction, please remember to:

1. give the year of manufacture of the truck,
2. if it is 2 or 4 wheel drive,
3. the type of engine V8 or V6,
4. the mileage on the truck,
5. if the transmission has had any work/servicing or rebuilding done to it recently or in the past,
6. the specific problem symptoms,
7. the specific OBD I or OBD II DTC codes it is putting out and to try and get a FORD NGS or FORD ROTUNDA scan tool to get these codes,
8. if you have checked the fluid level in the trannie
9. and it's color
10. and when was the last time you changed the ATF and the filter
11. and what type of fluid you used
12. and if you have any ATF fluid leaks under your truck when parked.
13. any recent electrical problems, wiring problems
14. any engine running roughly problems and repairs made recently. Many sensors on these trucks that PCM uses to control the trannie.
15. state any modifications made to the engine, drivetrain, oversized rims/tires, etc.
16. state under what conditions when the transmission started to act up/failed to shift, while off-roading, towing, extreme weather conditions, etc.

Pretty simple.

It's just a simple automatic transmission.

First, check the fluid levels on your transmission ATF when hot and your engine oil every once in awhile, WHEN THE TRUCK IS ON LEVEL GROUND.

Look, if your trannie is having problems, it probably won't be cheap to fix upfront, but look how long these transmissions run for and under the conditions that we run them and the weather. It's amazing what a fluid and filter change can do, once a year if you tow, and once every 2 years if it is just normal driving, to extend the life of these trannies and also make them shift better.

Use Mobil1 ATF fluid. It runs alot cooler and will add to the service life of your trannie. It is amazing stuff. My ex-father-in-law, was a scientist/top level manager, who worked for one of the largest defense contractors in the USA, building and designing electric/gasoline hybrid motor control systems for Chrysler which they were testing a few years ago. He asked if the Mobil1 products were any good and the Chrysler engineers told him that they tested Mobil1 by taking 10 engines that had been run for 50,000 miles on regular oil, with regular oil changes. They tore these engines down, used a micrometer and measured everything, put them back together and put in Mobil1 oil in the engine and Mobil1 ATF in the transmissions and ran them until they hit 1,000,000 miles. They took all the engines and transmissions apart, measured them again and found almost no measurable wear on all the hard parts. After a million miles!

They did the same thing with 2 other major synthetic oils and there was quiet a bit of wear on the hard parts after the tests. Mobil1 products are a step above all other synthetics. Mobil1 make / are the best lubricants and they work.

If you tow anything, read your owners manual that the truck came with. TURN OFF YOUR OVERDRIVE SWITCH WHEN YOU TOW. It makes a BIG difference.... It's not about the gas mileage when you are towing anything.

If your Check Engine Light comes on and your OverDrive (O/D) light begins to flash on the dash at the same time, get the truck ASAP to a good transmission shop to be diagnosed right away if possible, to limit the amount of damage to the trannie. Don't drive the truck until it is code scanned. That flashing OD light is telling you that you have a component failure/problem with your transmission. It could be something as simple as a loose valve body that needs to be re-torqued or a blown out valve body plate gasket that can be easily replaced... Or it could be a simple Vehicle Speed Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor or some other engine sensor that has failed and is easy to replace and fix.... Much cheaper than ruining and having to fix the internal mechanicals of a computer controlled transmission that you have blown out by continuing to drive it when the OD light is flashing.... Easy and cheap to fix if you catch it early!

Slowly, methodically, take your repair diagnosis step by step, based on the steps as clearly laid out in the ATSG repair manual and the OBD II codes that the FORD NGS or FORD ROTUNDA scan tool gives you.

Get informed first. Especially read the posts on this Forum board from Glacier991. He is very knowledgable. Read his other transmission problem posts here in detail.

If you are technically minded and a good shade tree mechanic, get the ATSG service manual for this transmission, READ IT and follow what it says for diagnosis, testing and what the DTC codes mean, (http://www.atsgmiami.com/).

Get access to a FORD NGS or ROTUNDA scan tool and get the OBD I or OBD II DTC codes read out from your PCM for the transmission problems you are having.

Check the ATF fluid in your trannie when it is hot and on flat ground AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. Make sure it is at the proper level when hot. Make sure you use the CORRECT ATF fluid in your trannie when adding or replacing ATF fluid.

State the mileage on your truck and when the fluid/filter was last changed, check whether there are any leaks from the trannie or in the radiator coolant.

A well informed, knowledgable consumer will not be screwed by his local FORD dealer, transmission shop....

The OBD II DTC codes when read out by only a FORD NGS or ROTUNDA scan tool, are very specific and tell exactly what is wrong with these trannies, IMHO. The FORD NGS scan tools can activate all the solenoids individually on the trannie while it is in the truck sitting up on the rack with the engine off. The aftermarket code scanners, even from SNAP-ON tools are INACCURATE and do not give all the codes and can not activate the transmission solenoids or test the vehicle Powertrain Control Module (PCM)!

I spent 3 weeks chasing a non-existent electrical problem, based on an aftermarket OBD II code scan tool giving me only 1 of the DTC codes instead of both DTC codes.

You must have a transmission person that WORKS ON these FORD product 4R55E AND 5R55E FORD TRANNIES, who can interpet these codes correctly, as there are OTHER SENSORS ON THE FORD TRUCKS ENGINES, THAT AFFECT HOW YOUR TRANSMISSION RUNS AND SHIFTS DUE TO TEMP, ENGINE / TRANSMISSION LOAD, DRIVER'S DRIVING HABITS, AIR TEMP, ETC. and your trannie mechanic must be a knowledgable FORD transmission person in the area of the mechanical problems and the valve body problems that can occur with these transmissions.

Just remember that eventually all automatic transmissions need to be rebuilt when hard parts/seals/friction materials wear out, but you can extend that time between rebuilds by using a little common sense and doing a little maintenance, using synthetic ATF and NOT TOWING in 4th gear OD!!!

Do an annual replacement of the ATF fluid and pan filter once a year, if not sooner based on vehicle usage. Clean ATF fluid and a clean filter make a difference.

Remember, when you do need to rebuild, replace the hard parts as well as the soft parts like the seals and the servos. The difference is night and day with how the transmission will work.... Here is what was done with my 4R55E at 115,030 miles when it was rebuilt after a broken intermediate band was discovered...


November 9, 2006........." FINALLY FIXED! My 4r55e transmission now shifts so smoothly it is ridiculous with it's upshifts and downshifts and lack of noise. Anyone rebuilding has to replace hard parts on these trannie's. The FORD oem hard parts just don't wear well at all from what I saw replaced. And if you don't replace the hard parts that need it IMHO, you're just asking for trouble a short period down the road. Especially if you tow or go off roading....

Just got my 96 Explorer 4.0 XLT 2wd back with the rebuilt transmission. I had Gaby at Jul's Transmission in Hollywood, Ca. go through the whole thing and replace everything internally of the hard parts that needed it.

Originally we were getting OBDII DTC of P0756, which is SSB (performance solenoid shift solenoid 2 not working, hydraulic circuit not working) and then we got DTC code P0732, (incorrect gear ratio) which indicates a mechanical problem in the transmission. The intermediate band had broken at the end of the band at one of the case mounting points.

Both of these OBDII DTC codes or in that number range seems to be very very very common here on the board; many people here have the same problem that I came to the Forum looking for an answer; having to let off the gas to shift from 1st to 2nd; OD light flashing; OBDII DTC code P0756, SSB failure....

Now with the rebuilt/repaired transmission, none of these codes are there and the transmission works perfectly and all the problems are gone.

Besides installing the standard rebuild kit with all new bands, seals, servos, and high heat BorgWarner clutchs, I had installed a remanufactured torque convertor, new pump, 2 new drums, new front and rear planetary gear sets, and replaced any and all hard parts that were worn or questionable, new FORD oem turbine sensor, plus the valve body we had already rebuilt with all new solenoids, new upgraded FORD seperator plate listed here on the Forum, etc.

Smooth shifting now as my buddy's Lexus. Amazing. Like a hot knife through 'butter'....

The amount of wear, scoring and then the slop in the FORD oem hard parts, especially in both sets of planetary gears was unreal and on the pump and the drums.


Hope this helped and Good luck to all!

 

[Pete R]

1karkrazyguy,

You didn't mention the benefit of keeping the trans fluid clean. Ford uses an in-line filter with all of the Reman and Service automatic transmissions they sell.

The filter, mounted in the cooler line, does a far better job than the pan filter. Also, once installed, the filter is a good place attach for a fluid exchange, when it's time for new fluid.

The part number is XC3Z-7B155-BA (or CA) for the kit. There is an aftermarket equivalent, (read, lower cost), check www.jeffsbroncograveyard.com

For those of you pushing the limits of your vehicle, you should look at installing this filter on your power steering system as well.

 

[1karkrazyguy]

Thanks Pete.

It is very important to change the filter in the pan, at the valve body, even if you have an inline magnetic filter for the ATF and I will tell you why.

My transmission mechanic Gaby, at Jul's Transmission in Hollywood, Ca. showed me last week a 2005 Ford Expedition 4wd automatic transmission's pan filter that was completely plugged/blocked, where the owner had installed an aftermarket drain plug in the transmission oil pan so that he could do regular ATF fluid changes to keep his transmission running longer.

He did not drop the transmission pan and change the filter inside at anytime. All he did was kill his trannie sooner by having a plugged up pan filter and the valve body was heavily layered in wear materials from the transmission.... His transmission crapped out at 38,000 miles. His FORD dealer had warned him that prior to installing the drain plug in his transmission oil pan, that his warranty was void on the transmission if he did that.

You're absolutely right about keeping ATF fluid clean and that inline magnetic filter for the transmission from BOSS products sounds like a great idea! I am planning to check it out and install one on my newly rebuilt 4R55E 2wd transmission. Thanks for the tip!

Change the ATF fluid and pan filter and put on a new pan gasket once a year/12,000 miles. If you have a 4x4 (4WD) and do alot of offroading or if you do a lot of towing with your 4x2 (2WD) you should check your ATF even sooner and change as necessary due to it being burned or a high content of worn materials (friction material, metal, etc.) suspended in the ATF oil.

The filter in the pan mounts right at the valve body and also there is a magnet in the pan itself. That is another reason to once a year (or as driving conditions warrant) drop the pan and change the filter and clean the pan magnet.


Thanks again for the input.

 

[Pete R]

1karkrazyguy,

I had my in-line filter on from day one, I pull a trailer on occasion and have been off road a time or more. When I dropped my pan, it was pretty clean.

I do agree, that we need to keep an eye on trans fluid, and keeping it clean, becasue it is really important for the life of your trans. A firend of mine found out the hard way, $4100 for a VW auto trans! Youch, that's got to hurt!

I would also suggest you look at magnetic filters for your engine and power steering system. The trans filter works really well on the low pressure line of the P/S. Also, you can get a magnetic spin on adapter for your engine oil filter that will keep the hard metal contaminants from continuing to do damage.

Good luck.

 

[1karkrazyguy]

Thanks, to you too.

VW automatics have always been nightmares; but especially the newer ones for the last 4 years....

 

[BrooklynBay]

http://www.findatrans.com/tips.php

Transmission Tips
Article Courtesy of FindATrans.com

1) Ways To Extend The Life of a Transmission
2) Ways to Ruin a Transmission
3) Watch for Fluid Leaks!
4) The Signs of Transmission Trouble
5) Vehicle Problems That ARE NOT Transmission Related
6) Sounds That May Indicate Transmission Trouble
7) Things You Shouldn't Do If You Have A Transmission Problem

1) Ways to Extend the Life of a Transmission

-Check the level of the fluid transmission fluid regularly! Fluid leaks are the main cause of failure. See below for more information on checking for leaks.

-External Coolers: The second cause of failure is from heat. External transmission coolers are good for towing, hauling, or any situation where the car is idling excessively (traffic, taxi, police usage, etc). External transmission coolers can be added to any vehicle and are mounted in front of the radiator and will keep the temperature of the transmission oil at normal operating levels under high-stress conditions. Installed price can vary between $100-$400 depending on the model.

-Have Any Malfunctions Checked Promptly: Having a transmission checked out at the first sign of trouble will save you money in the long run. The longer you drive on a failing transmission, the more parts may be damaged, and the higher the repair bill will cost.

2) Ways to Ruin A Transmission

-Rolling Shifts Into Reverse: Shifting into reverse while your vehicle is still moving can cause abrupt engagement in the transmission causing early failures in components such as the clutches, bands, gears, mountings and other drivetrain components. Always come to a complete stop before shifting into reverse.

-Driving Before Engine is Warm: For a transmission to work normally, the fluid inside must be at operating temperature. Driving a car before the engine and transmission have warmed up can cause shifting problems and internal problems. This is especially true in the cold, winter months.

-Rocking When Stuck: Rocking your vehicle from (D) drive to (R) reverse when you are stuck over and over can cause the transmission to heat up quickly and can burn out the internal transmission components. If your vehicle is stuck, it is cheaper to have the vehicle pushed out, pulled out, dug out or towed rather than damage the transmission (which can cause hundreds or thousands of dollars in damage).

-Drag Racing: Normal vehicles are not designed for drag racing purposes and drag racing runs the risk of damaging all drivetrain components.
-Aftermarket Chemicals: No aftermarket chemicals such as "leak stoppers" or "transmission additives" will solve a major problem. It is better to have the transmission checked out by a specialist. Chemicals are only a short-term fix for what may be a long-term problem, and they may even make the problem worse.

-Unqualified Mechanics: Transmissions are highly complicated machines that have electronic controls. Don't let unqualified mechanics work on or attempt to diagnose your transmission problem. Unless they are familiar with modern, computer-controlled transmissions, an unqualified mechanic may do more harm than good.

3) Watch For Fluid Leaks!

All transmissions run on hydraulic system that operates with transmission fluid. This transmission fluid both lubricates and allows the transmission to shift gears. When the fluid is low (always from a leak), the lubrication and pressure decreases causing excessive heat, excessive wear, and if the fluid is low enough, immediate failure!

To spot a transmission fluid leak, look for a wet oil stain under the center of the vehicle (or near the engine if the vehicle is front-wheel-drive). Transmission fluid is reddish in color (compared to brown or black for engine oil).

A transmission is a closed system, so if the fluid is low it is always from a leak. If you spot a transmission fluid leak, have the fluid checked and have the leak get it checked out by a shop immediately. Ignoring a fluid leak will surely cause additional damage to a transmission eventually.

4) The Signs of Transmission Trouble

Symptoms of transmission trouble can appear in different ways. Some are shifting related and some are sounds. Not all signs mean the transmission requires a major overhaul--some problems can be as simple as a minor service or fluid change. Below is a list of signs that you may need a transmission checkup by a transmission shop:

-Vehicle Won't Move in (D) Drive or (R) Reverse: This can happen if the fluid is low, the transmission is overheated, or could be the sign of an internal problem.

-Delayed Engagement: The vehicle takes a few seconds to catch up "shift" into gear after you've moved the shift lever. This can happen when the transmission fluid is cold or could be the sign of an internal problem.

-Slipping: When driving, you notice the engine racing up but the vehicle is not accelerating as it should.

-Fluid Leaks: You notice a reddish oil after parking the vehicle. Check the fluid level immediately and have it checked out by a transmission shop.

-Early / Late Shifting: You notice the vehicle is not shifting at the same engine RPM's it used to shift at.

-No Passing Gear: You press the pedal to the floor, but the vehicle will not downshift and give you that extra acceleration.

-Rough Shifting / Clunking: You hear a noise or feel a "clunk" when the transmission is put into gear or when it is shifting.

-Unexpected Shifting: You notice that the shifting sometimes comes at an unexpected time, or changes every time you drive.

-Check Engine Light: Many newer vehicles now have "transmission codes" which will make the Check Engine Soon light go on. This can be checked, depending on the vehicle, by using a code scanner. If there is a transmisison code, have it checked out by a transmission shop.

5) Vehicle Problems That Aren't Transmission Problems

You may notice other problems that may make you think you have a transmission problem. If your vehicle has any of the below problems, it may cause rough shifting or other transmission-related problems (even though your transmission is fine).

- Computer or sensor malfunction.
- Clogged catalytic converter.
- Defective oxygen sensor.
- Dirty fuel injectors or fuel filter.
- Poor fuel system adjustment (too lean or too rich).
- Broken transmission or engine mounts.
- Engine requires tune up
- Electrical problems of any kind.

A qualified transmission shop will verify that these problems do not exist before moving forward with any transmission repairs.

6) Sounds That May Indicate Transmission Trouble

There are several sounds that you may notice that could indicae transmission trouble. Any new sound (that does not go away) should be checked out. Below are a couple sounds that can indicate possible transmission troubles:

-Hum or Low Whine in Neutral (N) or Park (P)
-Hum or Low Whine in all Drive ranges
-Clank when engaging in Drive (D) or Reverse (R)
-Grating or Rumbling in Gear
-Chatter or Clunk when Starting in Drive (D) or Reverse (R)
-Moans or Groans
-Squealing, Screeching, Clicking, Buzzing, Whistling

7) Things you Shouldn't Do If You Have A Transmission Problem

-Used Transmissions: Junkyard transmissions normally have high miles and no guarantees. Added to that, the exact make, model, engine size and computer coded transmission has to be installed in your vehicle. Many times, you will be responsible for the labor costs (several hundred dollars) and fluid costs (around $50) of removal and reinstallation if the first unit does not work properly. For every unit that does not work properly, the costs of installing a junkyard unit will double. If the unit is found to have high mileage (there is no way to tell), the unit will fail at any time.

-Car Dealership: The car dealership is, by far, the most expensive choice for service. Unless the vehicle is under the manufacturer's original warranty, the new car dealership will only offer a OEM remanufactured unit, which will generally cost 40%-60% higher than repairs at a local transmission shop.

-Trade-In: Just because your car has a transmission problem, it does not necessarily need to be traded in. If the vehicle will be in good condition after a transmission rebuild, it can be much cheaper than the 3-5 year car payment on a new vehicle. Besides, a car with a transmission problem will not have a very high trade-in value. Even if you decide to trade it in later, a car with a rebuilt transmission (and receipts to back it up) will bring you more money in the long run.

http://www.findatrans.com/howto.php

Choosing a Transmission Repair Shop
Article Courtesy of FindATrans.com

Transmissions can sometimes be very costly to repair if they require a complete rebuild. When they require a rebuild, you are often asked to spend quite a bit of money to have a problem fixed that you probably don't understand very well.

Transmission Repair Price Quotes
Getting an accurate price quote is very important. There are many different types of electronic transmissions and each type requires different parts and different rebuild kits. Many times something that may seem like a major problem ends up being a minor problem.

One example of this is a man who brought his Cadillac into a shop for repair because it was not shifting properly. The transmission shop assumed it was the transmission, removed that transmission, and replaced it with a remanufactured unit from their inventory. They test drove the car, and found that the shifting problem was exactly the same!

The Same Problem - What Happened?
Well, since most newer car transmissions are electronically controlled by a computer, any problem with the car's computer or electronic power can cause shifting problems in the transmission. Come to find out, the problem was not the transmission itself---but a dying alternator! (The alternator regulates the 12V power to the car, and it was not giving enough power to the car's transmission, causing it to shift incorrectly.)

A $2,200 transmission replacement ended up being as simple as a $150 alternator.

Price Quotes
FindATrans.com was designed to give you price quotes from transmission shops. We are not affiliated with any transmission chain or transmission industry organization -- We are a 3rd party service that allows customers to receive more information on transmission repairs. To receive price quotes, simply click here.

Transmission Industry Organizations
There are several transmission industry organizations that exist. One is called ATRA - Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association and the other is ATSG - Automatic Transmission Service Group.

Our Shop Verification Process
Transmission shops do not pay monthly or yearly fees to receive our customer quote requests. When we receive a customer complaint on a shop, we investigate the complaint and will remove the shop from our database immediately if the complaint is verified. We feel very strongly about this policy.

Transmission Shop Warranties
The national transmission repair shop chains have advantages. They offer a nationwide warranty on their service as long as the warranty repair is performed at another chain shop. ATRA member shops also offer a nationwide warranty, but similar to chain shops the warranty repairs have to be performed by a another ATRA member shop. The value of a nationwide warranty depends on the consumer. Nationwide warranties can be helpful when traveling.

Choosing a Shop - Conclusion
When choosing a transmission shop, try to be as informed as possible. There are many honest transmission shops available which are being operated by genuine, hard-working people. With a price quote at your disposal, we feel that you are able to make a better decision. But just remember one last piece of information: "Cheaper is not always better".

 

[AndyF]

Blaaaaaaat "contestant is wrong, you lose 500 points".

The first thing you do is "CHECK FUSES".

Ford in it's wisdom decided to group incompatible components onto one fuse. ie: heating circuits with conventional. (Ref: Fuse #41, 2006 Rangers).

In the 2006 the tran codes you mention will throw when the heater sensors go on the fritz and short out. Prepare to cough up 300$ for the whole job of one sensor. The insult is that the two downstream sensors are right in your face on the exhaust components when you crawl under the truck and easier to remove than the oil filter (literally).

I'm looking at a frame off 67 GMC with 3 spd and straight six for 5000. It may cost me a little more on gas due to the somewhat less engineered engine, but at least I can save my pride by fixing it myself. Gimme the days of carb tuneups with 10 cent coins and strobe lites, and good'ole beefy trannys with torque converters.

Andy

 

[spitfireknls]

Thanks for all the input on the trannies, I sold my 94 in the spring and now my friend wants to sale me his 99 eddie bauer 4.0 4x4 and the body is solid 8 out of 10. But he has let it sit up for almost 2yrs now because of shifting noise's and 4x4 engaging and disengaging on it's own. So the opportunity for me to get another exploder has arrived and I like ford I have a 98 4.6 F150 and a 88mustang gt also, so the tranny is no biggy for the $1000 he wants for the suv. $2000 and I will have me a nice ford. But all this alternator and many electrical issues is worth the investigation before replacing the tranny, and this I know my 94 was nasty 4.0 block that went through 3 heads before I installed a motor from a 99, but the tranny had it's querks to the OD plug would always work it's way lose about once a year and the 4x4 was stuck in 4x4 when I got it so I just removed the locks from the hubs and never needed it so it never got fixed. The second time my OD plug came lose a mechanic and my stepdad at that said I needed a new tranny, even after I insisted to let me put it on the lift to check the plug first. Sure enough it was the plug like usual. Hoping some of this info will help me detect the problem before snatching it out. But the question I have is how or where can I get my hand on one of those Ford scanners? Are they high as Snap On and being the name Ford I imagine they are?

 

[war]

need help!

i was woundering if the transmission for a Ford Broco II 89 would fit on a ford Ranger 90 they have the same engine 2.9L they are 4x4 any suggestions? wat do i look for?

 

[Troywilliams92]

What transmission is used in the 2006 explorer eddie b.
WHAT TRANSMISSION CAN BE USED IN A 2006 EXPLORER 4X4 EDDIE B.

 

[JK080]

What transmission is used in the 2006 explorer eddie b.
WHAT TRANSMISSION CAN BE USED IN A 2006 EXPLORER 4X4 EDDIE B.

The truck should have a 5R55S transmission

 

[JJReynolds]

2000 Explorer transmission failure please help me

I just bought a year 2000 Red Ford Explorer 4x4 V6 Approx. 230 000KM (loaded with all the options). Has 4 winter tires on it at 50% tread. It was a private sale and I paid 2000 for it.

I was driving it out of the driveway (clear sunny day, no frost or any bad conditions) and noticed it was revving higher than normal for the speed I was taking it at, 3000+ rpms and only 40km/h tops. When I got out to the freeway I knew something was wrong because to get it up to 80km/h I had to take the revs up to 5000.
Pretty sure it wasnt shifting past 2nd or 3rd gear.

I took the nearest exit and then it stalled out completely as I was pulling out of a parking lot to try and get it to a repair shop, stopped moving right on the road. Had to get it towed. Engine and all the electronics working fine still as I write this (its in the shop) but it wont shift into gear or move in either direction.

Overdrive light was flashing on and off the whole time I was driving.

Tranny hasnt had trouble until now.
To my knowledge it had sat for 3-4 months before I drove it today.

Safe bet to say the fluids and filter and etc. have probably not been changed for a while and could have used some service.

I am a new driver and my knowledge of vehicles is very limited, sorry if I sound stupid or did stupid things in this situation. Very stressful day.

The Explorer is at a Tranny shop and they are going to decide with me what the best option(s) is/are for getting this thing on the road again. Any help or words of wisdom/experience would be GREATLY APPRECIATED (i.e what do you recommend be done, what do you think went wrong, etc.)

thanks a lot

 

[14markas]

Noobie here PLZ give me advice about 1997 ranger tranny probs

I will list all of the information about this ranger. I bought it around august of last year .

1. 1997 ford ranger xl
2. it a 2 wheel drive, rear
3. 3.0L V6 engine in the truck
4. the truck has 167k miles on it
5. I took the truck to 2 different places, each place told me different things. The first place said metal was in my pan and that i would need to rebuild. The 2nd one said i would need to rebuild but said my radiator went bad and caused my tranny to fail somehow. There is tranny fluid in my coolant tank, but no antifreeze in my tranny fluid.
6.the truck ran fine for a week or so, then the tranny wouldnt shift when i started it. I would put the tranny in 1st and manually shift up to drive. My truck has an automatic transmission. When i slow down the tranny clunks. sometimes the tranny slips and wont go into the next gear when driving.
7. i do not know OBD codes
8. The fluid level was fine, but the fluid seemed dirty black. I was looking for antifeeze and found none.
9. redish black.
10. the filter was changed 3 months ago and hasnt been driven since, my truck is now nice and warm in my garage. .
11. I am going to flush the tranny, and replace the bad radiator. I will put amsoil fluid into the tranny bc i heard this stuff is amazing.
12. no fluid leaks
13. i am not sure about wiring problems, the truck hasnt been driven in awhile.
14. engine seems fine last time it was driven
15. no modifications made
16. tranny acted up while driving normal speeds and when i would start it up in the morning.


BONUS= Basically what i am asking guys is if a tranny flush and radiator change will help me. I do not have the money to rebuild a tranny or get a new one because i am a broke college student. Any input would be great. I have a friend who has built racecars, he says this option would be a good starting place. Is there any hope? I really would appreciate responses that are helpful and not mean, i do not know a whole lot about automobiles. My life depends on getting this truck fixed because my focus has taken a poop on me and i need something to drive to get to school and work etc.