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Transmission Cooler Line - Connector

jsour

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Upstate, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 EB 4.6 V8
Hello,

I just changed the radiator in my 2007 Ford Explorer EB with 4.6 V-8.

My question is regarding the transmission cooler lines that connect to the bottom of the radiator.

The original ford connector appears to be different then the connector on my new radiator.

The first picture is the OEM connector.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110050057968075642385/FordExplorer?authkey=Gv1sRgCMij8IKAjMnpfg

The second picture is the connector that came with my new radiator.

Will the transmission coolant line fit/lock into the new connector?

Next question:
What is the part number of the tool to remove the old OEM fitting?

Reading through the forums I've seen three different tools referenced, OTC 307-569, OTC 6593 and Lisle LIS39960.

I went to Advanced Auto and Napa and was not able to find the correct tool that would fit over the Flare in the cooler line that's near the fitting?

Thank you for the help!
 



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edwx

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2020 Ford Explorer XLT
Can't answer first question, but the OTC 307-569 is the correct disconnect tool. The other two might be correct, but I can't vouch for them.
 






Lukas2009

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City, State
Cologne
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Eddie Bauer V6
I found these images at http://www.spectrapremium.com.
They say that the upper radiator is for a 2007 Explorer (V6/V8).
The lower one is for the 2006 model.
I replaced my 2007 radiator with the upper one.
You should not unscrew the transmission cooler tube connector from the radiator, like you did on your first picture.

12559401gq.jpg


My old 2007 radiator.
12612012mk.jpg


My new 2007 radiator.
12612014vo.jpg
 






jsour

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2007 EB 4.6 V8
Lukas2009,

Looks like the replacement radiator I have has the fittings for the 2006 model.

Too late regarding not unscrewing the fittings from the new radiator... 8-(

I was not able to find a tool that would fit over the flare near the oem connector, so I unscrewed the connector from the old radiator. The oem ford radiator had the transmission cooler molded into the bottom radiator tank.

The new radiator the transmission cooler is loose inside the radiator tank and has a gasket between the transmission cooler and bottom radiator tank inside, the cooler is loose until you tighten the connector to it, which compresses the gasket against the radiator tank.

That's my problem, it's leaking antifreeze on one side around the connector, so I assume the gasket dropped down inside when I changed the connector out #$%^&*!

I've drained the radiator and will take the trans connector off again and try and see what the problem is.

I'm pissed that I got the wrong radiator/connector as I asked the parts guy twice to confirm if it fit a 2007...

Thank you for the help!
 


















SBV45

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09 Explorer EB 4X4
I would go with an external trans cooler. The 2005 Nissan Xterra, Pathfinder, Frontier, etc used a similar trans cooler setup with their radiator. They apparently used a faulty material for the trans cooler section allowing coolant to mix with trans fluid. The result was totally failed transmission. Nissan wanted $9,500 to replace trans and radiator.
 






jsour

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I worked on it last night, drained the radiator and I loosed the trans cooler fitting that coolant was leaking around, I then centered the cooler outlets inside the bottom radiator tank, I could see the rubber gasket between the cooler and bottom radiator tank, I made sure this time to kept the cooler line fitting centered to the hole in the radiator tank and re-tighten the cooler line fitting.

Well knock on wood the radiator has stopped leaking coolant around the cooler line fitting.

It appears I had no choice but to exchange cooler line fittings as the new radiator had the wrong style fitting. I had ordered the new radiator over the internet and did not have time to exchange it while I had my explorer apart.

Thank you for everyone's help, the instructions I found on this site helped greatly with removing the old radiator.

The toughest part I found was getting the air box out and back in due to the four posts that have to push into four rubber bushings.

THANKS!!!
 






Ce3

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2007 ford explorer 4.0
I bought the same radiator with the 2006 fitttings. How did you connect it jsour? Did you disconnect the oil cooler line and connect them in to the other fittings (do they fit), did you screw the other ones in or did you just replace it which I hope not. ???




I worked on it last night, drained the radiator and I loosed the trans cooler fitting that coolant was leaking around, I then centered the cooler outlets inside the bottom radiator tank, I could see the rubber gasket between the cooler and bottom radiator tank, I made sure this time to kept the cooler line fitting centered to the hole in the radiator tank and re-tighten the cooler line fitting.

Well knock on wood the radiator has stopped leaking coolant around the cooler line fitting.

It appears I had no choice but to exchange cooler line fittings as the new radiator had the wrong style fitting. I had ordered the new radiator over the internet and did not have time to exchange it while I had my explorer apart.

Thank you for everyone's help, the instructions I found on this site helped greatly with removing the old radiator.

The toughest part I found was getting the air box out and back in due to the four posts that have to push into four rubber bushings.

THANKS!!!
 






Ce3

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Where can I find the right tool to remove the oil cooler line for my 2007 Eddie bauer. I've bought 3/8 scissors 5/16 and 1/2. I even bought one from autozone that says it's specifically for oil cooler lines but none will fit in place because of the lip that's on the line. Is it possible to remove the oil cooler line from the fitting ? Where do I get the right part for it.
 






BadThad

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This might help somebody....

I recently replaced my radiator on my 2006 V8. I couldn't get one of the quick connects off with my removal tool. The walls were too thick, even though I have a complete set of various sizes. I made a trip to O'Reily's and they had one with thinner walls for like $5. Their tool took the line right off.
 






MTLotts

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Used Cutting Disk

I did this a few months ago and found the removal tool at O'Reilys as well. Unfortunately, I could not get it to disconnect. It just would not expand enough to free the connection. After several hours of trying to get it to disconnect, I gave up and just used a cutting disk on my rotary tool to cut a notch into the side of the metal plug where the line goes into the old radiator. Since the new radiator came with new quick disconnects, I was not concerned about saving the old ones. I cut open a V-Shaped groove large enough for me to get to the oring inside and used a pick to pull it out. This freed up the connection and allowed me to remove the line. DO NOT CUT THE LINE!
 






BadThad

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I did this a few months ago and found the removal tool at O'Reilys as well. Unfortunately, I could not get it to disconnect. It just would not expand enough to free the connection. After several hours of trying to get it to disconnect, I gave up and just used a cutting disk on my rotary tool to cut a notch into the side of the metal plug where the line goes into the old radiator. Since the new radiator came with new quick disconnects, I was not concerned about saving the old ones. I cut open a V-Shaped groove large enough for me to get to the oring inside and used a pick to pull it out. This freed up the connection and allowed me to remove the line. DO NOT CUT THE LINE!

HAHAHAHA.....I almost resorted to that too! I was sooooo close, but O'Reilys is like 4 minutes from my house and it was worth a shot.

I'm surprised their tool didn't work for you. The wall thickness on their tool was a LOT thinner than the tool in my kit....nearly half. It allowed the pins to push in but not obstruct the removal.
 






vipersinu2

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here is how I separated the fittings, I took a dvd movie case, (flexable plastic case) and took tin snips. I cut about about a 1/4 inch long enough to wrap around pipe, then tucked the plastic into fitting, after plastic is tucked in, I took the opened part of wrench, I think 5/8 and pried fittings apart. works perfect, I tried every tool, there is not enough leverage to pry apart. this way works the best.
 






BadThad

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here is how I separated the fittings, I took a dvd movie case, (flexable plastic case) and took tin snips. I cut about about a 1/4 inch long enough to wrap around pipe, then tucked the plastic into fitting, after plastic is tucked in, I took the opened part of wrench, I think 5/8 and pried fittings apart. works perfect, I tried every tool, there is not enough leverage to pry apart. this way works the best.

That's an excellent and free solution! :thumbsup:
 






MyDobieCastor

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here is how I separated the fittings, I took a dvd movie case, (flexable plastic case) and took tin snips. I cut about about a 1/4 inch long enough to wrap around pipe, then tucked the plastic into fitting, after plastic is tucked in, I took the opened part of wrench, I think 5/8 and pried fittings apart. works perfect, I tried every tool, there is not enough leverage to pry apart. this way works the best.
What a great idea. I think I'll go buy a 1$ CD at the dollar store and try out your idea. Thanks!
 






vipersinu2

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I had to replace the orings. So I had to separate the lines again. This time I cut up mobile 1 oil quart And that worked. I tried milk jug plastic but was to flimsy.
 






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