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Transmission Crossmember Redesign Questions

01STrunner

Elite Explorer
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City, State
Greer, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 SAS'd Sport Trac
Due to my SAS and having a LP front axle I need to make a new transmission crossmember. I want to have dual 2" tube with a plate in the middle that bolts to the transmission. Problem is the tube bender is limited to 1/8" wall thickness. Would it be better to go with say dual 2x2 square with a 3/16" wall and use mitered corners instead or maybe several angles to get a "bend"?

This is sort of what I'm going for. And any ideas or criticisms are welcome. I'm just getting into fab work so not the brightest in this area.

IsoView_zps15d9006f.jpg


RevIsoView_zps2e797089.jpg
 



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Maybe my phone but your pics aren't showing up anymore
 






Thanks JD. I think I have them fixed now.
 












1/8" is fine. If it is going to hang low I would use some 3/16"-1/4" steel that attaches to it for a skid plate.

Also 2" tubing is huge for a transmission cross member. First, using a 2" die to bend it will have a large radius and I don't think you will have the room between the frame rails to make what you have drawn up once you account for the die radius. 1.5" tubing would be adequate.

My transmission cross member is made from 1/8" plate - http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2675183&postcount=2
 






I really like your design. It's a lot simpler and looks easier to make than mine. Right now in SW I have it as 1.5" tubing. How do you like the bushings in the ends vs welding it to the frame?
 












I really like Brian1's Trans cross member to. But here is another option if you wanted tube. Posts 343 & 344 That's what I did with mine and its super easy like Brian1's to take in and out. Simple 1 bolt on each side at the frame and the 2 at the trans. Also has my big front CV drive line clearance loop.

Here is a picture to show clearance to, its tucked up under the truck super nice and tight like my radius arms so I have as much breakover clearance as possible.
IMG_1383.JPG
 






Hmmm. Might be back to the drawing board. I appreciate the ideas and links a lot. This isn't really something I want to jump into without being sure just so I don't have to do it again.
 






here is mine, very simple and functional, the center part is removable with two bolts on each side of the radius arm mounts, one of them being the radius arm bolt itself.
IMG_20131113_103343_732.jpg
 






Do you have any other pictures of it? I think it might still be in the way of my driveshaft but I could be wrong and that would be a lot simpler of a design than what we are leaning towards right now.
 






I don't have any with it not installed but here are a couple more, the driveshaft has plenty of clearance on full droop still, good luck.
IMG_20131114_091403_053.jpg

IMG_20131114_091425_393.jpg
 






98_ranger_x-member.jpg


this may work. kinda easy looking to make.
 






I have your original idea. Works great
 






I ended up going with a new idea for the crossmember that was a little simpler fabrication wise. It takest the place of the t-case skid plate and also moats to the transmission. Eventually I'll run 1/4' plate as more of a belly pan to keep from directly hitting or catching on the new crossmember. I finally have 4wd again and can actually appreciate the SAS/SOA now. With the track bar removed and the sway bars disconnected this thing just soaks up ruts and rocks. Also this is the first time I've used Low range since the 4.88s and it is really low compared to the 4.10s! No action shots as it was too cold to get out of the truck a bunch.

Not the greatest welds but we also went over every weld twice to make sure there were no gaps.

C880E393-6F32-438C-8086-D634465D8414_zpsu8fehefr.jpg


E0A31676-38C4-49B2-9C91-42C768269226_zpsqekljp57.jpg


1E57845A-8974-43B4-B803-211AFE1D944D_zpsvjxd7rya.jpg
 












I ended up going with a new idea for the crossmember that was a little simpler fabrication wise. It takest the place of the t-case skid plate and also moats to the transmission. Eventually I'll run 1/4' plate as more of a belly pan to keep from directly hitting or catching on the new crossmember. I finally have 4wd again and can actually appreciate the SAS/SOA now. With the track bar removed and the sway bars disconnected this thing just soaks up ruts and rocks. Also this is the first time I've used Low range since the 4.88s and it is really low compared to the 4.10s! No action shots as it was too cold to get out of the truck a bunch.

Not the greatest welds but we also went over every weld twice to make sure there were no gaps.

C880E393-6F32-438C-8086-D634465D8414_zpsu8fehefr.jpg


E0A31676-38C4-49B2-9C91-42C768269226_zpsqekljp57.jpg


1E57845A-8974-43B4-B803-211AFE1D944D_zpsvjxd7rya.jpg
Your pics don't work anymore... can you fix them? I'm interested to see them.

Thanks
 






Your pic doesn't work anymore, I'm interested to see it

Here's the best pic I can find of it right now. I can't find the group of pics I took that day anymore.

IMG_2492.JPG
 






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