Transmission problem? 2006 FE EB

[FLRN]

Several weeks ago 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition started acting as if it was running over rumble strips - a vibration that appeared to be coming from the back end. But then we noticed that the RPM's would give a little bump up each time this happened. Took it to a friend's highly recommended mechanic, and they said it was the torque converter, which they replaced with OEM ($750). They also performed a "reflash". (we also had the rear end checked just in case, and it was ok - engine was put on computer and showed no errors, etc.)

When I picked it up, it seemed to shift much smoother between gears (it had shifted very roughly) but it was still doing the little RPM bumps. Took it back and they said they thought it needed a new valve body. That was going to be $1500 just for the part, and they were going to do the install at N/C since they had assured us the TQ would fix the issue.

We had them hold off, and took it to AAMCO (this particular one again recommended by another friend) and they did a diagnostic at N/C. They just called and said the transmission is fine, and they see nothing wrong with it. I did notice today on the trip there it only happened a couple of times, and it may have been normal but I'm just overly concerned about it.

Unsure what else we might be looking at. We pull a pretty heavy trailer with this, and it's coming up on camping season. We just had to have the radiator replaced, to the tune of $800, and the TQ, so would really like for it to be nothing. Could the fluids just have needed more time to work themselves through and it's now ok?

Any ideas welcomed. Probably obvious from my post that we are not mechanically inclined in our house.

 

[JK080]

Did you have a code for the converter before the replacement of the converter?

There are a few things in the valve body that can cause the converter to slip or cycle on and off, if it continues to do this the valve body would be the next place to look.

The TCC Modulator valve and control valve wears and the springs get weak and sometimes break on these.

1500 for a valve body seems high to me.

 

[Flag Gibby]

Just me, but I don't think your problems now have anything to do with the transmission anymore. I am thinking throttle body, MAF sensor, or spark issues.

 

[FLRN]

We just picked up car. They said that out transmission fluid is dirty (not burned but doesn't look like it was replaced when they did the torque converter). I haven't noticed the rpm jumping again but it does 'shake' at 65mph and above. Going to ask the guy that did the TQ about fluids as he said he changed it out. Would a different type of transmission fluid be best to try? I know it's a closed system so not sure if there is a different kind that is best. Thanks for input. Gives us avenues to explore.

 

[JK080]

The slight engine rpm change is a symptom of a converter slip, if its not doing that anymore I would look towards the engine performance.

 

[Flag Gibby]

You may have overlooked this statement so here it is again.

Just me, but I don't think your problems now have anything to do with the transmission anymore. I am thinking throttle body, MAF sensor, or spark issues.

 

[Sgt Burn]

Several weeks ago 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition started acting as if it was running over rumble strips - a vibration that appeared to be coming from the back end. But then we noticed that the RPM's would give a little bump up each time this happened. Took it to a friend's highly recommended mechanic, and they said it was the torque converter, which they replaced with OEM ($750). They also performed a "reflash". (we also had the rear end checked just in case, and it was ok - engine was put on computer and showed no errors, etc.)

When I picked it up, it seemed to shift much smoother between gears (it had shifted very roughly) but it was still doing the little RPM bumps. Took it back and they said they thought it needed a new valve body. That was going to be $1500 just for the part, and they were going to do the install at N/C since they had assured us the TQ would fix the issue.

We had them hold off, and took it to AAMCO (this particular one again recommended by another friend) and they did a diagnostic at N/C. They just called and said the transmission is fine, and they see nothing wrong with it. I did notice today on the trip there it only happened a couple of times, and it may have been normal but I'm just overly concerned about it.

Unsure what else we might be looking at. We pull a pretty heavy trailer with this, and it's coming up on camping season. We just had to have the radiator replaced, to the tune of $800, and the TQ, so would really like for it to be nothing. Could the fluids just have needed more time to work themselves through and it's now ok?

Any ideas welcomed. Probably obvious from my post that we are not mechanically inclined in our house.

Mine is doing the same thing. I am not sure if you fixed the problem yet, or even still own the vehicle. I did notice, that when it occurs, I am just cruising, barely pushing on the pedal (pedal is a sensor on this vehicle btw), just for the heck of it, I engaged the cruise control, the issue stopped. Since the issue does not occur while using cruise control, the problem is with the pedal. The pedal is a type of potentiometer, a more complicated version of the old slot car trigger controls, they work on the same principal none the less. The way these pedals work, they have a source voltage, and a signal voltage. Source voltage is constant, signal voltage changes depending on how far the pedal is pressed. Signal voltage is what the computer reads, to know how far you are pushing the pedal, in turn opening the throttle plate the correspondingly. If the you push the pedal have way and hold it there, the signal voltage should read the same opening the throttle plate halfway until the pedal moves. In this case, while cruising while pushing the pedal only a little bit, the signal voltage is not reading the same, instead it is changing slightly, up and down. The cruise control uses a its own system to control the throttle plate and maintain speed, without using the pedal, however you can increase speed by pushing the pedal, this is called over-riding the cruise control. However, without over-riding the cruise control, the issue disappears, because the computer is now controlling the throttle plate, taking the inconsistent pedal signal out of the equation. I have not yet replaced my pedal, but replacing it should fix the problem. I will update this once I have done it and tested it.

 

[peterk9]

^^Welcome to the Forum.
Just FYI, the member you responded to was last seen here October 1, 2013.

Peter

 

[TOM DA BOMB]

Mine is doing the same thing. I am not sure if you fixed the problem yet, or even still own the vehicle. I did notice, that when it occurs, I am just cruising, barely pushing on the pedal (pedal is a sensor on this vehicle btw), just for the heck of it, I engaged the cruise control, the issue stopped. Since the issue does not occur while using cruise control, the problem is with the pedal. The pedal is a type of potentiometer, a more complicated version of the old slot car trigger controls, they work on the same principal none the less. The way these pedals work, they have a source voltage, and a signal voltage. Source voltage is constant, signal voltage changes depending on how far the pedal is pressed. Signal voltage is what the computer reads, to know how far you are pushing the pedal, in turn opening the throttle plate the correspondingly. If the you push the pedal have way and hold it there, the signal voltage should read the same opening the throttle plate halfway until the pedal moves. In this case, while cruising while pushing the pedal only a little bit, the signal voltage is not reading the same, instead it is changing slightly, up and down. The cruise control uses a its own system to control the throttle plate and maintain speed, without using the pedal, however you can increase speed by pushing the pedal, this is called over-riding the cruise control. However, without over-riding the cruise control, the issue disappears, because the computer is now controlling the throttle plate, taking the inconsistent pedal signal out of the equation. I have not yet replaced my pedal, but replacing it should fix the problem. I will update this once I have done it and tested it.

same problem here, 06 EB 100k miles, rumble strips sounding but ONLY when vehicle is down shifting from overdrive on its own, such as going up a hill. Since cruise control will accelerate before vehicle downshifts, the problem, in my opinion, will not occur. I thought maybe the shift sol. was faulty or sticking but am beginning to think transmission is on its way out. We have been using the O/D off button on the shifter when the fault occurs in order to temporarily remedy the situation. Please let us know if you find anything more.

 

[TOM DA BOMB]

same problem here, 06 EB 100k miles, rumble strips sounding but ONLY when vehicle is down shifting from overdrive on its own, such as going up a hill. Since cruise control will accelerate before vehicle downshifts, the problem, in my opinion, will not occur. I thought maybe the shift sol. was faulty or sticking but am beginning to think transmission is on its way out. We have been using the O/D off button on the shifter when the fault occurs in order to temporarily remedy the situation. Please let us know if you find anything more.

repair shop says bad torque converter. swapping it out this week $1,600.00 I know this is an older thread, but relates well with subject.

 

[TOM DA BOMB]

repair shop says bad torque converter. swapping it out this week $1,600.00 I know this is an older thread, but relates well with subject.

problem fixed. new converter.