Transmission Shifting Problem, '98 XLT 4WD, 4.0 L V6 SOHC, 5R55E | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Transmission Shifting Problem, '98 XLT 4WD, 4.0 L V6 SOHC, 5R55E

archer973

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 31, 2014
Messages
112
Reaction score
3
City, State
Mt. Vernon, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer XLT
So a few months after resurrecting this SUV (1998 Explorer XLT Resurrection), I started having transmission shift problems. Not surprising since the vehicle sat unused for 10+ years in a garage before I started working on it. I've explored a lot of different threads here and tried a lot of suggested solutions with no success, but I feel I'm still missing something. Here's my progression...

At first, shifting was just delayed shift into upper gears. I replaced the valve body gaskets as recommended, and one of them was blown. Didn't fix the problem. It got worse. Took a better look at valve body and found one of the solenoid clips had come loose. Put it back together, better but still had problem. Pulled the valve body again and tested each solenoid and did a thorough cleaning. Didn't fix the problem. Bought a rebuilt valve body and installed it. Didn't fix the problem.

The shift problem started getting worse. When starting the engine after a period of sitting idle, I could put it in gear and it immediately started moving. Stop or increase the engine RPM and the shift problem starts again. Then I had to race the engine to get it to shift into 1st or reverse and while on the road there was a long delay before shifting up.

Not being a transmission person, I decided not to try to rebuild and bought a used/tested transmission with a torque converter. Finished the install yesterday and that did not fix the problem.

I'm searching threads again, but not finding answers. So many threads here never end with a stated solution. Don't know if they never fixed the problem or just didn't tell us what fixed it.

Today I will be testing the TPS and VSS. Tested the TPS several months ago before this problem started. Never tested VSS. Don't know for sure if these could really be the problem. I'm also thinking there may be a wiring problem somewhere, but so many wires and little knowledge of where to look. Hoping you guys can give me some help.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Update...I just took a test drive with FORScan recording several parameters. The VSS, OSS and a few other parameters stayed at zero for the whole drive. With more than one problem, I'm thinking a connector possibly came loose somewhere.
 






Revving required in order to get the tranny into gear is making me think that you have a pressure/pump problem. Have you checked line pressure?
 






Revving required in order to get the tranny into gear is making me think that you have a pressure/pump problem. Have you checked line pressure?

No, but after rebuilding the engine I did a fluid flush by disconnecting the cooling lines and pumping the old fluid out while pouring in new. Had great flow at that time. Also, the pump was replaced with the transmission. But, I will do as you suggest. You have me wondering now if the cooler core might be fouled.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 






Update: I complained above about threads that did not have a conclusion and I don't want my threads to be like that. But, I still do not have a conclusion. Shortly after my last entry I became involved in another project--21 acres of land I purchased and needs development comes first. I simultaneously started having health problems--osteoarthritis. Between the two, this vehicle has sat patiently waiting (do vehicles wait patiently?) for me to come back to it. I hope to get back to it soon.
 






My boss (Mrs. Archer) said I could work on the Explorer today and before the words, "Thank you, Dear" could have reached across the room I was out the door heading for the garage. I believe I found a problem and hope I can get some feedback here, but I will be searching other threads. I used FORScan to monitor several transmission PIDs. One of them is TR3_V - Digital Transmission Range Switch 3. Does anyone know what the voltage range for this should be? I would expect 0 V for LL0 (Logic Level 0) and 5 V for LL1, but it never exceeds about 1.5 V when it should be a LL1 reading.
 






Ignore my previous question. After reviewing the data in FORScan, I see now that the TR3 does activate when the voltage rises. I also found that the voltage value is 1.62 V.
 






After using FORScan to monitor every possible transmission test point and not finding any problems, I decided it was time to inspect the valve body on this replacement transmission. I don't particularly like doing this as I don't have a drain plug in the pan or a pan large enough to catch the wide area of drips. But I went for it and found to my disgust that the transmission did not have a filter in it. Remember, this is a tested, used transmission I ordered. I'm guessing without the filter there would be improper fluid flow. I decided to replace the valve body with the rebuilt one I had put in the original transmission which didn't fix the problem. Will post again after I finish and test.

Before posting this, I went back and read my previous posts. In one I mentioned that several test points stayed at zero while testing with FORSCan. I don't know what caused that. The next time I tried to find the problem, all test points were working.
 






Well, before going further, I realized the fluid was burned. Yesterday I went to visit a friend of mine who is a mechanic and told him. His response is don't bother to go further, replace or rebuild this transmission. He said without the filter, the fluid would not have been circulating properly which resulted in overheating and the solution is not to flush the fluid and replace it. Not being a transmission guy myself, I'm ready to take his advice and fortunately there is a warranty on this transmission. I'm wondering if anyone here has anything to add to this information. I would appreciate your comments.
 






Ok, unless anyone asks questions for me to answer, this should be my final post. I was able to get a second transmission under my warranty but once again got caught up in other projects. A couple of weeks ago I finally came back to this project. I put in the new/used tranny and made sure that I followed every step including pouring a quart of Mercon into the torque converter before installing it. The car is now back on the road, so the final solution was to replace the tranny. I now have the old one in a corner of the garage and hope that somewhere in the future I can try my hand at rebuilding it just to see if I can. Actually I have two transmissions in the corner. The original and the first that was sent to me without a filter and I consequently damaged. The supplier didn't require me to return it when they sent the replacement.

I also installed a drain plug on the pan during this project.

I learned a couple of things during this install. Sometimes it may be difficult to perform certain tasks while laying on your back under the car, but the task can be made easier if you turn around. Example: When I crawled head first under the car from the front to install the torque converter nuts, it was difficult getting them in place. But, if crawled under feet first--feet toward the rear of the car--I could very easily install those nuts. Same with getting the cooling lines attached to the transmission. Hard to do if I crawled in head first from right side of the car, but if I crawled in head first from the front of the car I could easily attach the cooling lines.
 






Ok, unless anyone asks questions for me to answer, this should be my final post. I was able to get a second transmission under my warranty but once again got caught up in other projects. A couple of weeks ago I finally came back to this project. I put in the new/used tranny and made sure that I followed every step including pouring a quart of Mercon into the torque converter before installing it. The car is now back on the road, so the final solution was to replace the tranny. I now have the old one in a corner of the garage and hope that somewhere in the future I can try my hand at rebuilding it just to see if I can. Actually I have two transmissions in the corner. The original and the first that was sent to me without a filter and I consequently damaged. The supplier didn't require me to return it when they sent the replacement.

I also installed a drain plug on the pan during this project.

I learned a couple of things during this install. Sometimes it may be difficult to perform certain tasks while laying on your back under the car, but the task can be made easier if you turn around. Example: When I crawled head first under the car from the front to install the torque converter nuts, it was difficult getting them in place. But, if crawled under feet first--feet toward the rear of the car--I could very easily install those nuts. Same with getting the cooling lines attached to the transmission. Hard to do if I crawled in head first from right side of the car, but if I crawled in head first from the front of the car I could easily attach the cooling lines.

Hi archer973 , glad all turn out right for you , I appreciate the time you took to post from the beginning to the end results , I guess what I learn from it ,tranny problem ! replace it with a rebuilt one instead from a junk yard :)
 






I guess what I learn from it ,tranny problem ! replace it with a rebuilt one instead from a junk yard :)

I considered pulling a tranny from a junk yard. Pick-N-Pull is one of my favorite amusement parks to visit. I've been known to take my wife there on dates. But from what I've read about the transmission for this vehicle, they are notorious for having problems so I opted to go with a tested used transmission. I may have been ok with the first transmission I pulled from a yard, or the second, or the third... I just didn't want to go through that. I would have to rent a transmission jack each time, but an additional problem for me is I live on an island in Puget Sound. Ferry trips back to the island ain't cheap and at least four hours of a day are needed for the ferry ride and waiting in line. I guess what I'm saying, if I lived closer to the yard, I probably would have gone that route since I'm retired and would have the time to keep taking bad transmissions back until I got a good one.

By the way, I bought a tested, used transmission--not rebuilt. Several hundred dollars cheaper.
 






OP,

Don't know if this makes you feel better or worse.

When my trans started slipping, I went through the usual replacing the filter and fluid and couldn't find anything wrong. That was when I spent $200 on the adapter/software to access everything in the vehicle (Forscan wasn't around yet).

I got a code for intermittent failure on one of the shift solenoids. I pulled the solenoid and 'tested' it. It had the expected resistance (supposed to check inductance, not resistance) and it actuated correctly. Put it back in and trans kept slipping.

Eventually, I bought a replacement solenoid. Slipping went away.

Crazy how a single part that physically looks/works correctly outside of the vehicle can cause so much havoc, but I got very lucky in that a single code pointed me to which part was the culprit.

I guess I'm saying recycle those old transmissions and enjoy driving your Explorer.
 






I've experienced that type of thing before but this doesn't make me feel bad. All of the solenoids were replaced with the rebuilt valve body in the original transmission and I put that valve body in the used tranny. But thanks for adding your tip. It may help someone else that reads this.
 






Back
Top