Transmission wont go into gear

[Blest51o]

This is for a 1996 Explorer 5.0

So slowly I would feel that the transmission was taking longer and longer to shift gears. It didn't make any noises it would just take a while to go into gear until eventually I would put it in reverse and accelerate but wouldn't move at all. I was turning and going up a hill when halfway up it just came to a stop and then the RPM shot up but it didn't move forward. I did remove the dipstick at that time and saw smoke coming out. I got it towed home and later was able to add Lucas transmission slip on it but had no luck with it going into any gear

Any one have any general ideas of where I can start looking for any problems? I'm not sure if it's the transmission or something potentially smaller that can be worked on. Is it worth removing entirely to take to a shop or should I attempt something myself first before spending the money at a shop. I do have most of the tools for the job

 

[DintDobbs]

Check transmission fluid level. Taking the dipstick out and there being smoke means that smoke was coming from somewhere that there wasn't fluid - otherwise the fluid would have caught the particles.

No way to know how much damage has been done without taking her off and opening her up. For that, you almost might as well just plan on swapping it, but hit or miss, it might still be salvageable. Without fluid, any component in there could be fried, melted, seized, or fractured.

Now would be a good time to crack open the tool box, though - the worst thing that can happen is you can't save it, and it would be good to do it for science.

 

[Blest51o]

Check transmission fluid level. Taking the dipstick out and there being smoke means that smoke was coming from somewhere that there wasn't fluid - otherwise the fluid would have caught the particles.

No way to know how much damage has been done without taking her off and opening her up. For that, you almost might as well just plan on swapping it, but hit or miss, it might still be salvageable. Without fluid, any component in there could be fried, melted, seized, or fractured.

Now would be a good time to crack open the tool box, though - the worst thing that can happen is you can't save it, and it would be good to do it for science.

Hmm, makes sense. Well then I'm going to have to find the time to get it out lol. Thanks for your input

 

[DintDobbs]

Incidentally, if there's a scrap yard around, you might be able to find a used transmission in good shape (the 4R70W is pretty solid) and either use it to rebuild yours, or just swap it straight in. Best if you can find one from an Ex that died in a collision, since those tend to have fewer miles.

Or if yours ISN'T damaged by any significant measure, you could just close it back up, refill the fluid, and keep it rollin'!

I observed a few years ago on my '99 that the transmission cooler lines were leaking, so I had them replaced with new. Your transmission fluid didn't just evaporate, so you'd better plan on finding the leak at some time. I'm not sure if the 4R70W's came with coolers or not, but if you've got one, I'd check those lines nice and good.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Make sure it’s full and then test the line pressure. No need to pull it for a post Mortem before ruling stuff out with it still installed.

 

[Blest51o]

That was my next thought in terms of searching for a transmission. Bc these shops are all asking for 2k+ for a rebuild or swap and yeaaah. That's a bit too much for me, I'd rather do the labor myself. I already looked up the price at a junkyard and it's only in the 200$ range for a transmission. Only problem will be to actually find a v8 there with the transmission still intact. Never know might get lucky though, 96-01 Explorers are popping up quite frequently.

Question though. You mentioned IF my transmission isn't damaged, how would I go about discerning that? Do you mean externally and or the lines?

First thing first, empty out the fluid and refill it bc i know it definitely needs a fluid change. Then I'll start looking for any leaks bc I agree, the fluid didn't just evaporate and I haven't noticed any leakage on the street but I also haven't properly looked. Would it be safe to assume that once I completed the fluid and it doesn't shift into any gear that the transmission is damaged?

Really appreciate you opinion and time DintDobbs and Mbrooks420

 

[C420sailor]

First first is check the fluid level. If the trans is dry, then you probably smoked her

You test line pressure by attaching a trans test gauge with a long hose to the test port on the housing. Then you check the pressures in different gears.

I will say that smoke coming out of the dipstick tube is generally a bad sign. Could’ve been the clutches/bands burnt up

 

[DintDobbs]

@Blest51o What @C420sailor said. If you aren't taking the transmission apart to inspect the internals, that test is the best way to go about it. Alternatively, you "could" try refilling it (still after locating and stopping the leak, of course) and trying to drive it, but his method is much better and safer.

If the test checks out, then try driving it. If it doesn't feel funny at all... then God protected your transmission. Running it warm without fluid for any amount of time will cause damage, but if it's not significant damage, then it might just take a few miles off its end life. It really depends on unknown factors at this point.

For a mere $200 I'd almost just buy a used transmission, find and fix the leak (if it isn't on the old transmission's housing - more than likely it's on the cooler tubes), and cut your losses. Then you'll have plenty of time to take apart and inspect the old transmission. If it turns out it's not fried, then you've got a spare. If you don't want a spare, somebody will - the 4R70W is used in many, many applications.

 

[Turdle]

Drop pan, new filter, 6 qts fluid because 5 might not be Enough. Give it another try.

A clogged filter would show itself like this.

 

[Richard Alexander]

This is for a 1996 Explorer 5.0

So slowly I would feel that the transmission was taking longer and longer to shift gears. It didn't make any noises it would just take a while to go into gear until eventually I would put it in reverse and accelerate but wouldn't move at all. I was turning and going up a hill when halfway up it just came to a stop and then the RPM shot up but it didn't move forward. I did remove the dipstick at that time and saw smoke coming out. I got it towed home and later was able to add Lucas transmission slip on it but had no luck with it going into any gear

Any one have any general ideas of where I can start looking for any problems? I'm not sure if it's the transmission or something potentially smaller that can be worked on. Is it worth removing entirely to take to a shop or should I attempt something myself first before spending the money at a shop. I do have most of the tools for the job

Those transmissions are weak, find one in a junk yard.

 

[uweg]

I had that happen to mine, it was the gasket between the two plates of the valve body. It starts to leak and then finally blows through.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Those transmissions are weak, find one in a junk yard.

The 4r70w isn’t remotely a weak transmission.

 

[C420sailor]

Agreed. 4R70 is a tank.

 

[Steve Forbes]

This is for a 1996 Explorer 5.0

So slowly I would feel that the transmission was taking longer and longer to shift gears. It didn't make any noises it would just take a while to go into gear until eventually I would put it in reverse and accelerate but wouldn't move at all. I was turning and going up a hill when halfway up it just came to a stop and then the RPM shot up but it didn't move forward. I did remove the dipstick at that time and saw smoke coming out. I got it towed home and later was able to add Lucas transmission slip on it but had no luck with it going into any gear

Any one have any general ideas of where I can start looking for any problems? I'm not sure if it's the transmission or something potentially smaller that can be worked on. Is it worth removing entirely to take to a shop or should I attempt something myself first before spending the money at a shop. I do have most of the tools for the job

The 5R55 series of transmissions has a bad history of giving up the ghost in such a manner. The best solution is to get a rebuilt from a reputable shop. In New Hampshire we have one fellow that is know throughout the region for such work and everyone, dealers included, keep him very, very busy! Ask around and you will find one shop who gets plenty of nods from the repair shops and dealers.

You could try a bone yard that may offer a 30 day warranty but, if it only lasts six months, you are shot down, again. The next choice would be to pull it and rebuild it yourself. Those transmissions are not overly complicated and there are several very well done videos on ScrewYouTube that can guide you through the entire process and also tell you how to keep this from happening again.

I wish I could tell you that it is an easy thing to fix but, the truth is, in my opinion, that you need a new box. Plain and simple.

 

[Mbrooks420]

The 5R55 series of transmissions has a bad history of giving up the ghost in such a manner. The best solution is to get a rebuilt from a reputable shop. In New Hampshire we have one fellow that is know throughout the region for such work and everyone, dealers included, keep him very, very busy! Ask around and you will find one shop who gets plenty of nods from the repair shops and dealers.

You could try a bone yard that may offer a 30 day warranty but, if it only lasts six months, you are shot down, again. The next choice would be to pull it and rebuild it yourself. Those transmissions are not overly complicated and there are several very well done videos on ScrewYouTube that can guide you through the entire process and also tell you how to keep this from happening again.

I wish I could tell you that it is an easy thing to fix but, the truth is, in my opinion, that you need a new box. Plain and simple.

This isn’t a 5r55e……

 

[Blest51o]

IDrop pan, new filter, 6 qts fluid because 5 might not be Enough. Give it another try.

A clogged filter would show itself like

Ok, this seems very doable to me at the moment to. I'll give it another try. It's just been taunting me sitting there outside of my house. It starts up strong and everything just won't move lol. So when I'm able to dedicate the time, looking for any leakage and this are my first things on the to do list

And every one else! I really appreciate the input and tips and most importantly the guidance . Saving me some bucks and helping me learn. It's awesome!

This is definitely a 4r70 tranny, not the 5r55

 

[Mbrooks420]

Stop starting it without verifying the level is good and there’s flow. You’ll end up turning a simple leak into a guaranteed rebuild.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Ok, this seems very doable to me at the moment to. I'll give it another try. It's just been taunting me sitting there outside of my house. It starts up strong and everything just won't move lol. So when I'm able to dedicate the time, looking for any leakage and this are my first things on the to do list

And every one else! I really appreciate the input and tips and most importantly the guidance . Saving me some bucks and helping me learn. It's awesome!

This is definitely a 4r70 tranny, not the 5r55

id follow mikes advice since hes knowledgable, and i wouldnt run a trans without adequate fluid to begin with. no fluid=no lubrication=no good

 

[Josh P]

I've read the entire thread. I don't see where it has been confirmed the fluid level is ok. Are you the original owner? If not how long have you owned it and has the fluid been changed in the transmission at any point in the past? How many miles on the vehicle?

 

[Mbrooks420]

No fluid flow will ruin a brand new rebuild in minutes. That’s a lesson you only have to learn once, fortunately. Also, never install a transmission without pulling the pan for a look. Both expensive hard learned lessons.