Truck hasn't run in years, no oil pressure

[crispins]

I just bought a 2001 Sport Trac from an estate sale.

The truck was a one owner and was taken very good care of.

The tags expired in 2011 so the last time it ran was around that.

The motor is the Cologne 4.0

I had it towed to my home.

After finding that it had no fuel pressure and the fuel pump wasn't running I replaced the fuel pump.

The truck started right up but sounds bad on the top end, lots of clanking and rattling.

The oil pressure gauge shows as no pressure at all.

I ran the motor for around 30 seconds and then turned it off.

I did check the oil and it is to the full mark on the dipstick.

The truck has around 180k miles on it.

it is a 4x4

I am prepared to replace the motor if needed, however if I can get this one going it would be much better.

How should I proceed?

Thank you in advance!

 

[BubbaFL]

The gauge isn't really a gauge, it's more of a dummy light.

Did you change the oil and filter?

I'd do that, then pull the plugs, pull the fuel pump relay, and use the starter to turn the engine over for a bit and see if the gauge indicates oil pressure coming up.

It could a take a little bit for the hydraulic lash adjusters to pressurize; the valvetrain will be noisy until that happens.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Also, when a vehicle sits that long, the oil in the bottom
of the pan tends to sludge up and clog the oil pump
pick-up screen. If that model has a two piece pan, you
can remove the bottom part and clean off the screen.

 

[SoNic67]

If that model has a two piece pan, you
can remove the bottom part and clean off the screen.

That's true. But if is a 4x4, is not that easy as it sounds...

 

[drdoom]

I am liking Bubba's technique, due to the fact that my 97 sat on the farm for four years, and when I started it back up, it threw a lash adjuster through the valve cover. Not having an OHC valve spring compressor, I was at a loss until I managed to get the adjuster back in place improvising with a carpenter's pencil & a screwdriver. Smoothed the gouged cam lobe with a flat file, replaced valve cover. That was 70,000 miles ago.

 

[crispins]

I will change the oil and filter

Pull the plugs and fuel pump relay

And crank it and see if the pressure returns.

I'll report back on Monday with the results.

thanks

 

[pcam13]

That's true. But if is a 4x4, is not that easy as it sounds...

Can't you pull the motor mounts pull it up and remove the pan.

 

[crispins]

Can't you pull the motor mounts pull it up and remove the pan.

This is what I am wondering, there is so much contradicting information on this forum.

Some threads say the oil pump cannot be changed while the motor is in the truck and some thread say it can be changed.

Does anyone know for sure?

 

[SoNic67]

Can't you pull the motor mounts pull it up and remove the pan.

Well, the front differential is still in the way. And partially the steering rack.
1. You can take the front end out and raise the engine a couple inches (motor mounts) to clear the steering rack or...
2. You can completely extract the engine - besides the mounts and transmission shaft you have the exhaust manifold to fight with too... those bolts are usually super rusted.

 

[BubbaFL]

Well, the front differential is still in the way. And partially the steering rack.
1. You can take the front end out and raise the engine a couple inches (motor mounts) to clear the steering rack or...
2. You can completely extract the engine - besides the mounts and transmission shaft you have the exhaust manifold to fight with too... those bolts are usually super rusted.

If it's that big of a deal to get the lower pan off, I'd be tempted to pour a couple gallons of kerosene in the crankcase, let it sit for a while, and then see what comes out of the drain hole.

 

[Flash]

If it's that big of a deal to get the lower pan off, I'd be tempted to pour a couple gallons of kerosene in the crankcase, let it sit for a while, and then see what comes out of the drain hole.

Add some white spirit too.