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Solved TSB 02-7-6 4.0L SOHC Timing Chain Rattle

CDW6212R

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Search for the many other threads about "pinging 4.0 OHV" engines. A need for a tune up usually makes it more obvious, it can end up being many things. Clean the MAF, IAC, TB, check the intake bolts for being loose, do the seafoam, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter etc. Regards,
 


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Gus Gorilla

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To all of you, Thank you. I must have read this whole thread half a dozen times before starting on mine. You all provided plenty of info that made it easier to complete. Aside from one panic attack when I had it all apart it went without a hitch. Now it's quieter than I've ever heard it before. Just one recommendation for the do-it-yourselfer. Get a notepad and write down what you did after each piece comes off. Also, how many bolts go in each piece and what they looked like. It takes a little more time but the piece of mind is worth it. Thanks again to Explorer Forum.
Gus
 




frickea86

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Well thats reassuring to me at least seeing how I will be taking mine off the road here in the next year to do the same procedure. This forum rocks and so do the people, nice job.

Where did you happen to get the timing tool from?
 




Gus Gorilla

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I didn't use them. Now before you all faint. I also didn't take my chains loose. I got in there and discovered that my tensioner hadn't been eaten it just wasn't holding very tightly. I compared the new chain and gears to the ones in my truck and couldn't see a bit of difference. No scars, no wear, no tapered teeth. So I did the tensioner, the guide, and the other tensioner that is in the head and comes with the oil galley plug. Now there's no cold startup rattle, and no noise over 2500RPM.
 




Bgunit68

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First I want to thank everyone for all this input and to ExplorerDMB for posting the actual TSB. I bought a 2002 ST from my Subaru Dealer (I also have a Tribeca) as a second car. I've had a lot of problems. When I first noticed the rattle I brought it to the Subaru dealer. He said he found two things. One was to change the fuel filter the other was extensive and would have to take it to a Ford Dealer. So he tried the first. I had the 36/36 Warrantee so what the heck. Well, that didn't work. So in early February they brought it to a local Ford Dealer. My dealer could hear the noise but Ford insisted it was a fuel issue. I did a web search. I found this thread. It started getting worse. My dealer brought it to another local Ford Dealer. Before I did I copied and pasted the TSB from the first entry and taped it on the dash board and highlighted the spark knock, 2400-2500 rpm, etc. Needless to say. My service guy said the Ford Tech drove out of the lot and 2 minutes later came back and said the Timing chain was bad. Well they did the work and notified me that the first time I brought this in I was about 1500 miles beyond my recommended oil change and wouldn't cover it. My dealer also determined that the alignment was way out; I needed new brakes and a camber kit. Luckily my girl friend does the Owners Hair. She told her service manager to go easy on me. I had the timing chain done as "good will" they replaced the front brake pads and rotors. They replaced the camber kit, cam bold and did an alignment. And inspected it and charged me $200 for everything. The funny thing this was all supposedly done when I first bought this 12000 miles ago. But regardless I got a great deal and because of this site I knew what I was in store for. I also found another thread on here about a shake at around 65mph. I had that but after the alignment work it is no longer there. Again thank you so much to all!
 




foxy

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People , When I did my underdrive pulley I used the special tool for the timing chains to lock the crankshaft against the block also I used a thinner bolt that went into the crank bolt bed to use the puller and the pulley came off really easy . the difficulty was getting the right torque when doing the new crank bolt up ope this can help .Foxy
 




rogerh

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What I thought was a timing chain rattle ended up being the chain for the oil pump. The tensioner broke and fell into the oil pan. The front cassette, jackshaft guide and tensioner looked perfect. I just went ahead and bought the rear cassette, since the motor had to come out anyway. Replacing all the chains, guides and tensioners. Should be good to go for another 150k.
 




foxy

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People .What would you pay over there just for the front and rear tensioner?
Barry
 




zonianbrat

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Well this is a really useful thread. I really dont want have to do this job. I just did the timing BELT, tensioner, water pump, t-stat, coolant bypass hose, plugs, wires, complete radiator flush and cam seals in my 97 pathfinder like 6 months ago then it was totalled 3 weeks ago. I just bought my 98 XLT with 95K on it. So far I do not have this rattle problem. The truck was really taken care of from what I can tell so maybe I wont have to do this soon but it is nice to know there are write ups on it. It wasnt too bad on the Nissan (because I was on nissan forums and got some darn good write-ups) but it ended up taking me 3 days because I broke the harmonic balancer and had to order a new one.
 




CDW6212R

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People .What would you pay over there just for the front and rear tensioner?
Barry

Which ones Barry, the head mounted tensioners? Those are about $25 or so for each if they have not changed.
 




foxy

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Hi Don ,
Mate out here the 2 tensioners are 120.00 AU each which would be about 110.00 US .That should give you an idea of what we're up against out here .The reason I asked is would changing just the tensioners alone say every 50ks or so be a good idea ???? Cheers Barry
 




CDW6212R

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I'd like to see those two changed every 50-75k miles, 50k being a little early.
 




cleudard01

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Just getting ready to do this job. Real soon, like this weekend, I hope. Will hopefully be able to pull the engine & drop the pan tomorrow & overnight the parts on Thursday.
 




craiganator

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Another soul with Timing chain issues

Don (AKA CDW6212R),
It looks as if you are the GURU for this topic, so I am addressing this request to you. Below is a link that explains the timing situation, but in a nutshell: guides and tensioners replaced and timed with OTC tool. Upon start up, knocking was present(not there prior). I think the valves were bent when the rear jackshaft bolt sheared/timing slip prior to this entire repair project. The basic assumption I may have made in error prior to starting the repair was that this 4.0 SOHC engine was valve safe as in not an interfence engine.

Two Things:
1. Do you know of a method to check for valve interference without disassembling the heads off of the block? It seems to rotate freely by hand.

2. Is it possible for this engine to run with valve to piston hitting(making the noise)? What I mean is it will continue to run on all 6 cylinders smooth yet the knocking is present?


reference:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2828521


I do have the OTC 6488 tool set, which will be for sale when this is all done. I was extra careful when I set the TDC tool. Just curious...I found two spots on the crank where it could be fastened. One tooth apart on the bottom of the Harmonic balancer. One position there was an air gap between the inside diameter of the tool and the outside diameter of the H-balancer. The other spot, there was no air gap. I set the timing with the air gap between the H-Bal and tool.

Kindest Regards,
Craig
 




cleudard01

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I'm just wrapping up this job & it went ok but....I would definately recomend pulling the engine & getting ALL the pieces out of the pan & closely check the balance shaft tentioner & guide. I found plastic & metal fragments inside the oil pickup screen housing.
 




CDW6212R

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The TDC tool does go in the large open tooth of the balancer, I don't recall seeing another position to place it. The teeth of the balancer are not the same height at the rear part compared to the front. My aftermarket balancer looks to have the teeth equally high along their whole length. I timed my engine with the stock balancer, it seems to work best with the TDC all the way(flush) at the front.

Craig, For the valve clearance, if they touch the pistons while running they should bend. If there is a knocking sound while running with that kind of possible valve problem, I'd say the head(s) have to come off. There may be a special tool that could be used to see in a cylinder, but that kind of camera isn't common. I've read of that being done, but never seen anything about it.

These engines can't be turned with the timing apart, just like all engines. If the cams are separated from the crank at all, it is extremely hard to not have damage, or to put them back.

If you can discover that the engine timing is off, say from using the wrong tooth of the balancer, and it's not far off, then you might be able to correct it and try again. If the timing is really correct now, I would go ahead and pull the heads. Do any of that at TDC though. Good luck,
 




pnut

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well,well, well. i guess its my time to attempt this fun task.....

97 explorer, 4.0L SOHC, auto, 4x4, 226 xxx KMS

scenario: driving the truck i hear a noise, and all of a sudden it looses power, but is still running (just sounds like its missing). i opened the hood to see a hole about the size of a nickel in the valve cover on the drivers side and inside this hole i can see the timing chain.

basically im ASSUMING a piece of the guide broke off, caused the chain to skip, punch a hole in the valve cover, and caused the cam timing on the drivers side to be out.

i decided to take the accessory brackets off, valve cover off, and upper intake off and hold out on more work before i read more in depth into this.

now i have a few questions.

has anyone been able to rent the special tool set from ford, a toolwarehouse or the like or do you have to buy it?

is there any way to just get some slack in the chain, time the cam , replace the guide and call it done ( i know the cams wont be excatly in time not doing the passenger side) ?

basically the truck is a work truck, and i dont plan on keeping it any longer than a year or two more.

i know it the idea sounds bad, and all the guides/tensioners SHOULD be done but has anyone found a cheap easy repair for this?

P.S. im glad my DD has a pushrod 4.0L...

thanks in advanced, kyle aka pnut
 




cleudard01

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Thanks Guys for all the good info! This job went well. Now I'm into the trans & transfer case problems. Hope I can get this thing rolling for more than 4 days. I'm in too deep!
 




ExplorerXLT95

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Warranty Status: Elgible under the provisions of Bumper to Bumper warranty coverage

So, if I take my 2000 XLT to my local Ford dealership and state that I believe my vehicle suffers from the condition mentioned in this TSB, they will do the work and replace it free-of-charge?

I have to go in for the only outstanding recall I have left anyways (cruise control recall).
 


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sondrashy

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just another 4.0 timing job

Hello. Does anyone know where I can get the famous otc6488 for $100 or less. I am probably going to attempt this "can't be done" timing job without it if not. Thanks for any help or advice on this.
 




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