TTB axleshaft/U-joint question | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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TTB axleshaft/U-joint question

Josh S.

can't kick the habit
Joined
January 19, 2001
Messages
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City, State
Seabeck, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 sport 4x4
Hey guys...if any of you know anything about my front end on my truck, you'll know it has its freakin problems lol...ok here's my deal. i have to toss in a new front passenger side stub shaft, due to the inner u-joint being FUBAR'd to all hell. the caps blew off and the holes are all "wallowed" out and crap. anyways, now that I have it limited pretty conservatively with straps, I figured I could throw a new one in there without it breaking again...hopefully :rolleyes:

I have a spare TTB setup lying on my garage floor, semi torn apart from a buddy's rig. Now...the axleshaft out of his(which is the main thing I wanted) has one blown cap on the u-joint. Is this replacable or is this pressed in by the factory or some crap...do I have to get a whole new axleshaft?

Also, I have a new u-joint for it...so maybe I could just throw the u-joint in and get a new cap for it somewhere. I've also thought about welding the freakin caps on around the edges...i figured maybe this would help some.

Also planning on doing the c-clip eliminator mod on its way in, so I could use some friendly info on this too.

Any thoughts about this crap guys? i will post a pic here in a sec of the spare shaft.
 



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Josh S. said:
...the axleshaft out of his(which is the main thing I wanted) has one blown cap on the u-joint. Is this replacable or is this pressed in by the factory or some crap...do I have to get a whole new axleshaft?

Also, I have a new u-joint for it...so maybe I could just throw the u-joint in and get a new cap for it somewhere. I've also thought about welding the freakin caps on around the edges...i figured maybe this would help some.

Also planning on doing the c-clip eliminator mod on its way in, so I could use some friendly info on this too.
Replace the bad joint in the spare axle, the caps come with the new joint. I wouldn't 'mix-n-match' u-joint parts, keep the set together.

I think I've heard of tack welding the caps on, but never tried that.

C-clip elim, you need a spring to place in the slip yoke. Look around on the Ranger Station tech library, they probably have a write-up with pics.

Have fun, and get yer junk runnin'! :p
 






ok, but I don't think the new u-joint came with caps :( $@#$*&@ damn autozone...I swear I have the worst damn luck with these freakin places lol.(as I'm about to roll down to pep boys and get a battery for my stepmom :rolleyes: )

here's the spare shaft's joint...and then the old one...lol, look how jacked it is :eek:
 

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you can tack weld the caps in the axle with the wollowed out ears. Heck when I was running a dana 28 in my old ranger I took two broken axles and cut them apart and welded one back together to make it complete.

What I would do is get a new ujoint for the good axle. Then take the axle with the wollowed out ear and mix and match the parts from the two different u joints you have left to make a complete spare and tack weld the caps in place.
 


















Why do you want to eliminate the C clip? So you can swap out the stub shaft easier?
I say DONT DO IT.
The C clip not being there, as you know, you have to use a spring in the slip yoke to keep + tension on th stub shaft, so it stays in the diff.
This works of course, but I have also been through 3 grease seals on that side in 2 years, it allows far too much movement of the stub shaft, the seal will not hold.

You will be replacing that stub shaft LESS if you keep the C clip in there, if I could put mine back I would (ARB = wont le me)

Now on to your problem.
A new U joint will have 4 caps, if you didnt get all 4 dont buy from that place again, what a joke. Also you can check the box b4 you leave the store.

Whent he cap starts spinning around the U joint, thats when its time for a new yoke, the U joint wont last long like that. Tacking the caps in place will work, as Matt said, it can buy you time.

Use the outer shaft that is least worn, press in new U joints, with the retainer clips, and put it all back together, forget about removing the C clip and runnig the spring, if you can get away without the spring, do it!

If you do run the spring you have to weld the slip yoke grease cap to the axle stub shaft, otherwise the spring tension will pop it loose.

If you are seperating at the slip yoke at full droop (Axleshafts coming apart, or not enough overlap) you should consider a new custom passenger side axleshaft, long enough so this does nto happen.
It is a blank Dana 44 shaft, you can have cut to length and splined to match your D35, available from Spicer, the whole process can cost like $250 max.

good luck!
Get that 4x4 working MANG
 






The solution to keep the grease cap from popping out is to tack weld it in place. I never had a seal leak in all the years that I ran the ARB in my TTB. I also never had the grease seal pop out. I only saw that happen once and that was on Joe Dietz's Explorer. Even so, I would still tack the cap just to be safe.
 






Rick, but you didnt have modified beams with longer axleshafts. There are two ARB's for the D35 tbb, yours eliminated the C clip and you ran a valve spring in the slip yoke?

Joe Deitz is the reason mine is tack welded, but I also use a much softer spring and my beams are modified.

Josh you have Camburg beams do you not? Standard width with Camburg heim radius arms and coilovers?
 






No, I had stock shafts and stock beams.
 






Yah I have camburg stock width beams, heimed burg radius arms, with burg coil buckets, 5.5 eibachs and some kings with some limit straps.

ok so now i don't want to do the eliminator?? and whats this grease cap you guys are talking about. the slip yoke boot? or is it a seal where the shaft goes into the pumpkin?

I do not believe I am seperating the slip yoke at full droop, although I have never checked. I'm pretty sure if it seperated tho, I would notice because that thing would be fubar'd and would probly pierce out of the boot and fall down. The problem I have is the u-joint maxes out REAL quick, causing the cups get stuffed and blowing the thing out. i have it limited pretty conservitavely all around now, so hopefully it won't blow out after this. I will go check right now, but I'm pretty damn sure the u-joint i bought from VatoZone didn't include caps. also, from what I remember from my haynes manual it said something like take out the inner snap rings, then it just somes out somehow???

i will go check on that crap right now :mad:
 






Nice link about welding the caps RangerX!!!!! That gives me a lot of faith in that, now that I know other people have done it :) ...

Ok...so now I just gotta find some damn caps. i can probly ***** one off of the old axle, but how would I get it out without damaging it...I assume they are pressed in there. **** I'll probly just tear that phucker apart and go to town on it with a vice, and a BFH.

Here's a pic of what cam with the new "Brute Force"(yah right) U-joint I bought some time ago. I checked out the spare stubby shaft and could see the inner retainer clips too :p Hope y'alll enjoy the cool 70's color from the garage ;)
 

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The caps are already on the U-joint. The red part is the grease seal. Just give'em a tug.
 






You may want to look at coing with a full circlip on those joints. The half ass clip they give you is Junk.

When I did my axle joints I used HD D44 ones. I also clearanced my yolk a bit so that it wouldn't bind. Binding is the #1 reason those caps pop out.

By the looks of the shaft your still in good shape. If it was Jacked then there would be little to none left. Warrlord Just blew that center joint in his ranger, it pretty near split down the middle.


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Josh see what he is saying about clearancing the yoke?
See the lip in the picture just above me has been ground down.
Whats happening or was happening is with your Camburgerlur setup you are getting more travel then the stock setup was built for, the U joint can flex alot, but the ears of the two yokes will start to bind.

Joel, that is an interesting way to run the spring! What keeps it from slipping up over the outer shaft?
Josh if you do eliminate the C clip, you will need to tack weld the dust cap on teh slip yoke, this has nothing to do with the U joint, it has to do with where the two axle shafts slip together, you will be running a spring in there, the spring wants to push that stock pressed in cap apart, the welds keep that from happening.

Any of your neighbors ever done a U joint before?
Try them, they can be quite a brain puzzle if you dont know how they work, putting them in and out the first time you can be left scratching your head with needle bearings all over the front lawn.
 






That Spring is a PITA.

It's just small enough so that it's a PITA to slip over the spline. After the spline there is a neck down then it necks back up. The neck up will stop the spring from sliding past onto teh shaft. The other side pushes against the yolk. I took one coil and fliped it over the tin part of the dust seal this way it's not pushing against the seal. The boot fits right over the spring. Way better deal than the spring inside the spline. You loose spline to fit the spring in there. If you have Modified Beams you need all the spline you can get. I've trimmed about 3/8" off the end of mine and I still have it bottom out on me. It's right at the point now where I may out my 6" Skyjacker coils and the shaft still spins freely.

I think the next step is to build new brackets and move the pivot points for the beams to widen the front track width 1.5". so then I can gain more clearance on the slip spline.

I had the measurements and the part number of the spring I used. I'll have to dig it out.

The bottom 2 pictures are of the yolks i modified to get a full clip around the grove in the U-Joint.
 



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When we built my beams we built in a 1.5" track width increase, I ended up getting a blank D44 shaft from Spicer, cutting it to length and having it splined.
I run an internal spring, I have quite the spring collection from trying different rates and lengths. Its perfect now, but there is still some play in there without the C clip retainer (ARB = no C clip)

in a year or so I plan to ditch this entire setup and start looking at modified D44 TTB beams, thats 8" of track width right there over the D35, stock :)
Wider = better.
 






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