TTB Steering Mod - build thread | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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TTB Steering Mod - build thread

Couple more pics

I threw in Pictures of Jeff and Dan, two cool dudes. I appreciate their valiant efforts and patience whilst showing me how the alignment rack works.

I've been waiting till I was happy with the results of this Mod before I put on the new skids, It's now time.

I purchased extended radius arms today and can't wait to bolt them on.

-----And to those of you who've been pestering me for off road shots, shortly I will be posting some flex photo's, I know they're long overdue, It's not that I don't want to, it's so freaking cold!
 

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Any update Rusty? You must have wheeled the new steering by now....
 












Updates...... hmm, what can I add?

Any update Rusty? You must have wheeled the new steering by now....

Well, lets see. I ran over a 6" curb backing out of a tight parking spot at the grocery store - I made it my B_ch. I parked in tall grass at the Indianaplolis Monster Jam - It must've been at least 12" high. Then there was a gravel driveway and that pot-hole down the road. I made a U-turn in a grass lot through a deep drainage ditch and ramped it out back onto the road, that was really fun and quite the spectacle, it really put the springs and steering to the test. It was like landing on pillows and no bump steer- at all. That pretty much sums it up - it's really not fit for offroad use yet for a few reasons; The driveshaft for one, it's lifted 8-10" the rear driveshaft's bone stock. I'm affraid if I really flex it, it'll fall apart at the slip joint. I haven't augmented the TTB lift brackets. That, and I'm still sporting my 3.27 gears in front with my 4.10's in the rear.


Specifically addressing the steering, I've had no problems. It works far better than I hoped. I still have to replace the polyurethane bushings with my roller bearing setup on the lower idler pivot arm where it connects to the saggy boob inner tie rod plate. I only converted the upper idler arm bushing, it was the priority because it was responsible for the most movement.

I have a laundry list of parts I'm gathering for my next phase of mods this summer, hopefully to have it all done by the Four Wheel Jamboree.
-Double cardan rear driveshaft :thumbsup:
-Dana 44 6-lug knuckles :thumbsup:
-8.8 rear axles with 6 lugs :thumbdwn:
-18" wheels :thumbdwn:
-355/65R18 tires :thumbsup:
-5.13 gears :thumbdwn:
-Extended radius arms. :thumbsup:

In the meantime, I was issued a warning for lift height, chased fuel system gremlins, and added Electronic goodies:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2941471#post2941471

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2941667#post2941667

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345061

I started a tradition with other Explorer's, Bronco II's, and Ranger's. If I see they're sporting the TTB, I cross my forearms like an "X"; but really it just confuses the H__L out of them. My version of the J-tard Jeep wave.
 

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Congrats on bringing your design into fruition. Your setup is very nicely done and as another mentioned it is similar to the superrunner steering kit.

I find it interesting that you are having the issue with your idler bushings deflecting. This is the same problem I am having with the superrunner system I have installed on my Ex. The top bushings blew out within about 500 miles of installation. I made some shims to tighten them in thier bores and about 10 miles later, I got sloppy bushings.

Have you figured out why your system is doing this? I'm sure it would be the same physics acting on mine as well. I thought about having a machine shop turn out a bronze bushing to put in the idler arm ends, but I like your idea of needle bearings instead. Where did you get them? Did you have to machine a bore for them to fit into or were you able to select from a number of bearing o.ds?

By the way your Ex looks sweet. My sister just moved to Indy, I may get a call from her about a lifted 1st gen running around her new stomping ground and i may know who she is talking about.
 






find it interesting that you are having the issue with your idler bushings deflecting. This is the same problem I am having with the superrunner system I have installed on my Ex. The top bushings blew out within about 500 miles of installation. I made some shims to tighten them in thier bores and about 10 miles later, I got sloppy bushings.

Have you figured out why your system is doing this?

Yes, let me refer you to Post #59. It demonstrates the forces acting on your idler arm. Poly bushings are a bad bad bad idea.

The bearings, can be purchased from Motion Industries. They are salty though, I think they would have been $180 if I bought them outright, but I twisted my sale's rep's nipples to give them to me at a discount.

Did you have to machine a bore for them to fit into or were you able to select from a number of bearing o.ds?

In order to bore out the cylinder, I used one of those small brake cylinder hones with cutting stones. You can pick them up at any auto store. It took forever because they take out such small amounts of material. That's a good thing. I heated the idler arm and froze the bearings to make it an interference fit. They're going to be a B_tch to remove.
 






Unfortunately Rusty's ride is no longer serviceable. It is awaiting reincarnation.

Any update Rusty? We are all very excited waiting for any news.
 






Specifically addressing the steering, I've had no problems. It works far better than I hoped. I still have to replace the polyurethane bushings with my roller bearing setup on the lower idler pivot arm where it connects to the saggy boob inner tie rod plate. I only converted the upper idler arm bushing, it was the priority because it was responsible for the most movement.

Unless you built that idler arm on a jig so that it's length and swing angle is precisely in phase with your pitman arm, I'd leave the lower end of it as it is with the bushings. Reason being, it can bind up if it's off just the slightest little bit because the roller bearings have no give whatsoever.
The lower bushings should only account for about 2-3% of the total deflection vs. the uppers anyway, which is well under where I'd worry about it (at least that's been the case on mine and a buddy's Superlift kits I lowered the centerlinks down on). You could widen the lower tube slightly if that last little bit still bothers you though.
 






i see that i am not the only one that busts sectors...its the reason i dont mind full hydro....


and its the main concern with this setup. weight. i wonder if you could have built a nice swingset for what you have here.


hard to believe you dont get more steering deflection from the tall weak axle brackets which to me is a good thing, but you mentioned you know to augment those brackets as well before you beat on it....


what you did with the bearings is why i used the hd gm idler, problem was matching the arcs with the box and idler....not a hard job if a guy used matching pitman arms.

in hindsight my steering warned me a bit before the pitman arm fell off ...since then i wont run a stabilizer. it slows from input and kind of hard to explain. good luck.
 






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